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RichieSounds

Fitting a manual gearbox

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I'm working with two 94 Corrado VR6s: One was an auto, and the other a manual. I've got the manual gearbox/clutch/diff off in one piece and I'm attempting to fit it to the engine which used to have an auto gearbox.

 

Between the two engines the crank shaft looks identical except that the old auto engine has a slightly deeper hole: up to the lip it's identical, but further in the hole it is a little deeper on the auto. Vince from Stealth warned me to look out for a bearing within the crank itself on the auto engine: to my eyes I can't see one.

 

I am sure the flywheel is on straight.

 

Having fitted the gearbox correctly, the splines of the first motion shaft interlock fine. The clutch housing bolts on fine no gaps anywhere and the dowels line in perfectly. I wind the crank from the other end with a socket and wrench, and if I place longitudinal pressure on the crank shaft I can hear a grating noise coming from the clutch housing: however, if I try hard to not push on the crank shaft the grating does not occur, or not so much.

 

It sounds very much like the flywheel ring gear's teeth fouling the clutch casing. Having removed the clutch housing/gearbox etc I can see that the corners of the flywheel ring gear teeth are shiny like they've been in contact with the alum. clutch housing. I've been filing certain areas that could come in to contact right down, but still the grating is evident.

 

I take it there is longitudinal play on the crank shaft, but is that a problem? Should I carry on filing away the areas of the clutch housing that may be coming in to contact with the flywheel? I am stumped and any help would be very much appreciated. Has anyone come across this before?

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well I've read through that guide already and it doesn't give any clues for this problem.

 

I'm gonna send a PM to the guy who wrote that guide so thanks for reminding me.

 

Any other ideas?

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There is a limit of acceptable end play for the crank of .25 mm. I'm thinking that the end play on this engine is more the that of the previous engine. Could this be the cause of the problem?

 

If it is then I hope that when the engine is running, the crank will 'correct' itself and sit naturally at a happy medium. The only way to find out is to re-install the engine and try it... Is this lunacy? Is there something I'm missing?

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FWIW I've found the problem. The noise was coming from the clutch release bearing rubbing gently on the clutch springs.

 

So obvious; silent but deadly!!

 

A big thank you to everyone who helped

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