Re: Quicky's Corrado - Audi 3.2

[quicky1980 0]

weather this sunday is supposed to be really wet on sunday. I may pop along for the show but I can't be bothered to get teh car alll shiny clean just for it to get road grime on it.

 

we will have to do thephot's another time maybe?

[cdem 0]

weather this sunday is supposed to be really wet on sunday. I may pop along for the show but I can't be bothered to get teh car alll shiny clean just for it to get road grime on it.

 

we will have to do thephot's another time maybe?

 

 

Yea ive just looked out the window and its pretty crap weather to be fair! We will have to arrange it for another time when the weathers not so bad :)

[Meth 0]

Whimps!

 

Was down there, was fine! Just a bit windy.

 

Anyway, give me a shout if you guys ever do want to hook up, im available most nights.

 

Secondly, Sam - my g/f realy wants to see your 'rado! She's seen you driving around and thinks it looks awsome!

[cdem 0]

Whimps!

 

Was down there, was fine! Just a bit windy.

 

Anyway, give me a shout if you guys ever do want to hook up, im available most nights.

 

 

 

Just a bit windy and chucking it down not so long before!!

 

Im free the odd evening so im sure we can sort something out :D

[quicky1980 0]

damn coolant hose that goes from the cylinder head to heater matrix decided to let go yesterday on the way back from work. crapped myself at first because I thought the engine bay was on fire when i saww what looked like smoke coming from the bonnet gaps. funny how steam looks alot like smoke at night!

 

anyway, sorted something out temp until I get a cheap replacement sorted out. Decided to go for samco hoses for the engine swap. not sure if I should go blue, black or red though. any ideas?

[quicky1980 0]

change of plans, going 2wd with vr gearbox first. so will sell the 4wd 3.2 gearbox to fund the project.

[swiftkid 1]

you sorted that wiring from ecu to dash yet? its an absolute barstuard to get hold of!

[quicky1980 0]

you sorted that wiring from ecu to dash yet? its an absolute barstuard to get hold of!

 

Yes it is, ended up getting one off ebay germany for a very reasonable price. It included the FULL car loom!!! :luvlove:

 

The engine loom on my engine was cut when being removed from the car :censored: , fortunately Audi did a full replacement for £150, this inc a 10% discount.

 

I think I have pretty much all the items to build the setup off the car and in the garage. :clap:

 

Gave up polishing the rocker cover, so getting a local guy to do it for me.....I know I know, I'm lazy. But I'm sure he'll do a better job than what I could have ever done.

[cdem 0]

Bring on the better weather so you can get started! Bet you cant wait :D

[quicky1980 0]

Bring on the better weather so you can get started! Bet you cant wait :D

 

hell yeah!

 

Any one want to see some bling bling?

 

Actually looks much better in person

 

[cdem 0]

Mental...looks well good! When are you taking the car off the road then?

[quicky1980 0]

Mental...looks well good! When are you taking the car off the road then?

 

lol, no idea. Like I said, I will build the setup in the garage first, then when I'm pretty much done I hope to do the swap on a weekend and have a week free to problem solve. Aiming March time still

[Chris 0]

rocker looks lovely! :salute:

 

are you gonna be chroming it or devoting every weekend to polishing it? :D

[quicky1980 0]

rocker looks lovely! :salute:

 

are you gonna be chroming it or devoting every weekend to polishing it? :D

 

I did wonder, never had a polished item under the hood. I'll see how it goes, if it oxidises quite often and quite quickly then I'll go back to OEM finish or have one painted. Again, not sure. Was tempted to laquer it but not sure if this is a good idea either. :shrug:

[Chris 0]

rocker looks lovely! :salute:

 

are you gonna be chroming it or devoting every weekend to polishing it? :D

 

I did wonder, never had a polished item under the hood. I'll see how it goes, if it oxidises quite often and quite quickly then I'll go back to OEM finish or have one painted. Again, not sure. Was tempted to laquer it but not sure if this is a good idea either. :shrug:

 

don't bother with the laquer, if you even look at it funny the laquer will scratch and become visible. powder coating or chroming is the way forward. i got so pi$$ed off with my old inlet and rocker so sold them and had some chromed, all they need is a light wipe now, no more polishing :clap:

 

When i get my r32 sorted out i will definately be chroming the rocker so if you fancy doing a group batch let me know.

 

did that gruven crack pipe fit the r32? you shouldnt have to worry about that oxidising as i did clear hi temp laquer it. forgot to mention it when i sold it to you.

[quicky1980 0]

rocker looks lovely! :salute:

 

are you gonna be chroming it or devoting every weekend to polishing it? :D

 

I did wonder, never had a polished item under the hood. I'll see how it goes, if it oxidises quite often and quite quickly then I'll go back to OEM finish or have one painted. Again, not sure. Was tempted to laquer it but not sure if this is a good idea either. :shrug:

 

don't bother with the laquer, if you even look at it funny the laquer will scratch and become visible. powder coating or chroming is the way forward. i got so pi$$ed off with my old inlet and rocker so sold them and had some chromed, all they need is a light wipe now, no more polishing :clap:

 

When i get my r32 sorted out i will definately be chroming the rocker so if you fancy doing a group batch let me know.

 

did that gruven crack pipe fit the r32? you shouldnt have to worry about that oxidising as i did clear hi temp laquer it. forgot to mention it when i sold it to you.

 

Haven't tried yet because the 3.2's front is facing a wall in the garage. May give it a go this weekend and start putting some of these goodies together.

 

I have been thinking of doing a group offer on polished or chromed components, not just 3.2 rocker covers.

[Chris 0]

if you get a good enough quote for chroming i will throw my name into the mix for def.

[quicky1980 0]

if you get a good enough quote for chroming i will throw my name into the mix for def.

 

Noticed youve been showing some interest in a 3.2 setup, when you looking at starting the project. If you need a hand, I'm sure I would have gained a few bits of useful info.

 

Spend the day on putting the engine back together. Looking quite sweet, especially after I removed all the unnecesarry parts such as the egr system etc.

 

Just before I put the rocker cover back on I took a picture of the mechanical beauty

 

Heres after a bit of messing around

gruven item fits fine :-)

 

Few questions came up.

 

1. I thought I could use a VR6 bracket to mount the alternator, pas and air con pump onto the block. However this doesn't fit, what should I use?

 

2. Which control capsule controls the variable inlet? I have two little capsules but not sure which one I can delete.

 

3. VR6 thermostat housing has 3 ports, 2 of which are used (blue and yellow sensors). What should I do with these and should I fit the grey audi 3.2 temp sensor.

[pete_griff 0]

hey pal, that crack pipe is the wrong way round sos orry but you'll have to remove and re-fit it. while you're doing that, check it against the original r32 item - i had a gruven crack pipe on my conversion and i THINK (not certain) that it was an r32 item - would certainly be worth checking seeing as you're going to have to remove the crack pipe anyway.

 

you need the 2.8 24v tensioner bracket - order one for a 28 24v mk4 (can't find part number sorry) and i'm fairly sure that it's the 24v tensioner that you need a well - both of those shoud come in together at around the £80-100 iirc...

 

don't know what you're on about with the control capsle and having multiple ones there pal... there is a closed loop vacuum system that operates the flap actuator on the en of the inlet manifold - check out my old build thread for pics...

 

and yes, you do have to run one of the audi/r32 sensors as one of them talks to the new ecu, but i can't remember which one it is now i'm afraid - also there MAY be subtle differences in the wire colour and/or way the wires run between the audi/r32 engines. uncertain basically, so i would PM Kip_VR on here and i'm sure he'll be able to help you out.

 

 

rocker cover is looking very nice pal, please do keep us all updated on progress :D

[quicky1980 0]

hey pal, that crack pipe is the wrong way round sos orry but you'll have to remove and re-fit it. while you're doing that, check it against the original r32 item - i had a gruven crack pipe on my conversion and i THINK (not certain) that it was an r32 item - would certainly be worth checking seeing as you're going to have to remove the crack pipe anyway.

 

you need the 2.8 24v tensioner bracket - order one for a 28 24v mk4 (can't find part number sorry) and i'm fairly sure that it's the 24v tensioner that you need a well - both of those shoud come in together at around the £80-100 iirc...

 

don't know what you're on about with the control capsle and having multiple ones there pal... there is a closed loop vacuum system that operates the flap actuator on the en of the inlet manifold - check out my old build thread for pics...

 

and yes, you do have to run one of the audi/r32 sensors as one of them talks to the new ecu, but i can't remember which one it is now i'm afraid - also there MAY be subtle differences in the wire colour and/or way the wires run between the audi/r32 engines. uncertain basically, so i would PM Kip_VR on here and i'm sure he'll be able to help you out.

 

 

rocker cover is looking very nice pal, please do keep us all updated on progress :D

 

I wondered if I put the crack pipe on wrong, but It's not bolted on tight anyway. Will do it once I'm certain Ive go the pipework setup correctly. The 12v crack pipe does differ to the 24v but again hope to use mainly 12v coolant layout. Thanks for pointing it out though

 

Will need to source a part number and see if vw do a decent price. If im lucky may find a 2nd hand one

 

Attatched to the front of the inlet manifold was a larger plastic box that looked like an air damper. Attatched to this were/are two little solenoid/valve thingies that must control the amount of vaccuum going to the variable inlet and the other goes to the egr controler iirc correctly. Olnly prob is i didnt pay attention when taking it all apart and now i dont know which controls the egr and which controls the inlet. Once i work out which is not needed can i cut it off or will it throw the car into a error mode? Will get some pics up to make it clearer

 

Ill give kip a shout at some point, but currently the 12v coolant temp sensors have no plug attatched. Surely this will mean the dash or engine fan wont work correctly. Or does the 24v ecm only need one coolant temp input and has the relevent outputs for the dash gauge and fan control? :shrug:

[pete_griff 0]

about the crack pipes - i meant just check that the r32 one isn't a better fit than the 12v item - iirc the r32 one is longer and you may find it's a snugger fit; just worth checking that's all. also if you twist the flanges on the shiny metal valve you'll see it's actually a drain valve for the block (should point down), instead of the useless slotted screw cap that VW put there in their own crack pipes

 

got you about the vacuum solendoids now - all i can say there is just check out my old build pics and you'll get the answer...

 

as for the temp sensors, i THINK that i only actually used two sensors on mine in the end - one from the r32 setup to talk to the ecu, and one for the instrument panel. i'm not certain, but i THINK that the fan and cooling setup takes everything from the fan switch on the rad and doesn't actully talk to the sensors in the thermo housing, but i could be wrong there!

[quicky1980 0]

about the crack pipes - i meant just check that the r32 one isn't a better fit than the 12v item - iirc the r32 one is longer and you may find it's a snugger fit; just worth checking that's all. also if you twist the flanges on the shiny metal valve you'll see it's actually a drain valve for the block (should point down), instead of the useless slotted screw cap that VW put there in their own crack pipes

 

got you about the vacuum solendoids now - all i can say there is just check out my old build pics and you'll get the answer...

 

as for the temp sensors, i THINK that i only actually used two sensors on mine in the end - one from the r32 setup to talk to the ecu, and one for the instrument panel. i'm not certain, but i THINK that the fan and cooling setup takes everything from the fan switch on the rad and doesn't actully talk to the sensors in the thermo housing, but i could be wrong there!

 

just checked the crack pipe and seems fine, it is shorter than the 24v version but the 12v thermostat housing which Im using is slightly different and makes up fo the difference.

 

Gone through you build again and got some answers, but also go some more q's :-). How do you adjust the fpr, mine is like what yours was like ie no return line.

[pete_griff 0]

you simply cut a bit off the end of the return line and stick that hose on the return from the FPR. the line in to the FPR obviously comes straight from the pump and you'll also need to trim that down, then you have a single line going from the FPR to the fuel rail. the FPR will sort it all out for you and should be set at about 3-bar iirc for a standard engine running standard management etc.

[quicky1980 0]

you simply cut a bit off the end of the return line and stick that hose on the return from the FPR. the line in to the FPR obviously comes straight from the pump and you'll also need to trim that down, then you have a single line going from the FPR to the fuel rail. the FPR will sort it all out for you and should be set at about 3-bar iirc for a standard engine running standard management etc.

 

sorry but how do you adjust to the 3bar? Does the engine need to run, just worried the fpr i buy could be over adjusted. Any recomendations on which one to buy?

[pete_griff 0]

when you buy an aftermarket fuel pressure reg, it should be adjustable so you can set the pressure that you need for your individual application. (normally the little allen-head screw on the top of the reg, depending on design though obviously.

 

of course the only way of actually knowing the pressure is to fit a pressure gauge. there is normally provision to fit these on the FPR that you buy. (again see my build pics)

 

the one that i bought was by a company called Aeromotive who have a good reputation when it comes to their FPR's. it cost about £120ish delivered with a couple of fittings and a gel-filled gauge if i remember rightly. i bought it from a company called coast to coast motorsport from ebay.