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Kevin Bacon

Air/fuel meter

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Can anyone recommend any suppliers? I've done a google search and it just comes up with some silly priced ones. Larkspeed do a nice little Lumenition 10 LED one but even that is £110!

 

I don't really want to pay much more than £50 if possible!

 

Cheers

Kev

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summit racing in the states do em for $27US or there abouts. i bought two just cuz.

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..all it is is 8 or 10 LEDs that light up according to voltage.. would be $5 to make yourself with some knowhow.

 

for something a little more accurate you could rig up more LEDs.. 20 or 30 and have more increments.

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Is summit the make or the name of the supplier? I went to summitracing.com and there's only a handful of air/fuel monitors there, none are 'summit' ones.

 

I know they bounce all over the place on the road but when hard on the throttle, it should stay at stoich. They normally drop into rich at idle from past experience!

 

Kev

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kevhaywire..

 

I found the Lumenition AFR is the quite accurate .. if not a bit ugly.. if you match it up the lambda probe you cant really go wrong demon-tweeks supply both the probe and meter.. I've tried the autometer gauge it didnt seem very accurate and it was hard to read on the road as more than one led lights up at a time, not easy to see whats happening at a quick glance..

 

Andy :D

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Cool, did a little research into this and I've decided on one from http://www.dawesdevices.co.uk

 

It's just a tiny little 4 light unit that has ultra bright LEDs so you can see it clearly in your peripheral vision. I will look at fitting these LEDs into the blanked off LED slots in the instrument pod :lol:

 

It's £50, so not too bad.

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Cool, did a little research into this and I've decided on one from http://www.dawesdevices.co.uk

 

It's just a tiny little 4 light unit that has ultra bright LEDs so you can see it clearly in your peripheral vision. I will look at fitting these LEDs into the blanked off LED slots in the instrument pod :lol:

 

.

 

 

ala early MG metro turbo boost guage!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: keep us posted on this kev might be the new must have subtle mod :lol:

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Cool, did a little research into this and I've decided on one from http://www.dawesdevices.co.uk

 

It's just a tiny little 4 light unit that has ultra bright LEDs so you can see it clearly in your peripheral vision. I will look at fitting these LEDs into the blanked off LED slots in the instrument pod :lol:

 

.

 

 

ala early MG metro turbo boost guage!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: keep us posted on this kev might be the new must have subtle mod :lol:

 

I must admit, I saw this done on Jereon Dik's MK1 G60 monster. VERY VERY subtle and stock looking! An AF meter is essential imo. You can also rig up another LED to monitor open or closed loop circuits and Knock sensing! VAG-COM's day's are numbered!!!

 

Kev

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OK, here's an update on the progress. The one I bought was rubbish and not one to be defeated, I have therefore made my own.

 

It's going to fit perfectly in the large blanking plate under the fog light switches etc. The ABS light will be moved to the bottom and the newly made AF meter, to the top.

 

Attached pics show it in action at night during testing and calibration (apologies for pic quality). The other pics show the compact dimensions and how cannily the bargraph is exactly the same size as the smooth inner section of the blanking plate :lol:

 

Each segment exactly represents 0.1V (verified with a high impedance meter) and the red LED is a power on indicator, which will be placed adjacent to LEDs 6 & 7, at which point the engine is at Stoich on WOT. At WOT, I expect to see 0.75 to 0.8 and it read that exactly, so the ECU is doing it's job :lol:

 

If you want one, it'll cost about a tenner (much cheaper than purpose made ones, and just as accurate) to make and I'll post complete instructions and a parts list if there is sufficient interest.

 

What's the point? Well, if you're interested in what your engine is up to, it's a good device. You can see in an instant if the 02 sensor is dead or if the ECU isn't responding to it's signals.

 

What you want to see is no lights lit on overun when the ECU pulls back the fuelling for economy. At idle, it'll flick between 0.1 and 0.7 constantly, which indicates the ECU is altering the fuelling (10 pulses to the injectors a second) to find the best mix. At WOT, you want to see 0.6 - 0.7. If you light all 10, you're running too rich. If you light too few, you get the picture. If the bargraph sits at 4 constantly, the probe is dead.

 

The meter incidentally is bar or dot mode selectable.

 

Kev

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If you want one, it'll cost about a tenner (much cheaper than purpose made ones, and just as accurate) to make and I'll post complete instructions and a parts list if there is sufficient interest.

 

Kev

 

If your going ahead with selling them count me in for one, although the wires may need to be a bit longer than yours as I would put it next to my headlight switch due to the heated seat controls taking up the space under the fogs.

 

Very cool and subtle mod. 8) :p

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If you want one, it'll cost about a tenner (much cheaper than purpose made ones, and just as accurate) to make and I'll post complete instructions and a parts list if there is sufficient interest.

 

Kev

 

If your going ahead with selling them count me in for one, although the wires may need to be a bit longer than yours as I would put it next to my headlight switch due to the heated seat controls taking up the space under the fogs.

 

Very cool and subtle mod. 8) :p

 

Yeah no probs. I can either make them and post them on or supply a list of parts for people that are confident with soldering.

 

The wiring length can be as long as required.

 

In the meantime, you can prepare for it by tapping into the 02 sensor's signal wire (white cable on the plug) and feeding a cable from there and a battery earth lead (don't use the 02 sensor's earth or a car ground) into the dash area. You'll also need to tap into the black wire on the ignition switch to provide a switched output for the meter.

 

Kev

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personally think its all a load of crap.

set up no lambda = 4% at idle

1.5% at cruise

9.9% at full throttle

 

connect lambda and its .9% at idle and all lights on my afr are correct

 

set up at 1% at idle i get

.2% at cruise

4.1% at full throttle

 

reconnect and my afr reads the same as this is what my lambda does

 

so you tell me how will i know if my mixture weakons off when driving

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kev, would you be able to do a wideband one too ???

 

Certainly. All AF meters are based around a LM3914 chip and are dead easy to configure to read what ever range you want.

 

Kev

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personally think its all a load of crap.

 

What ever. If you've nothing constructive to add, keep your tripe to yourself.

as i gave figures i would say it was constructive, all i think it will show is possably a faulty lambda, unless its my chip and that alters it.

i did ask if anyone could explain it so your answer is less constructive then mine.

good luck to you selling them as they have a place, but i would be interested in a wide band version.

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I can either make them and post them on or supply a list of parts for people that are confident with soldering.

 

I'm well up for making one of these for my C... If you can PM me the wiring diagrams/parts list, I'd be well happy! 8)

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personally think its all a load of crap.

 

What ever. If you've nothing constructive to add, keep your tripe to yourself.

as i gave figures i would say it was constructive, all i think it will show is possably a faulty lambda, unless its my chip and that alters it.

i did ask if anyone could explain it so your answer is less constructive then mine.

good luck to you selling them as they have a place, but i would be interested in a wide band version.

 

OK fair enough. It was the way you said it, not what you said :?

 

Anyway........

 

My meter is not intended to be the be-all-and-end-all of meters and I'm not interested in making a lucrative business out of it. I just thought if it costs a tenner to make, then people would be interested, given that most commercial ones cost upwards of 4 times that amount.

 

The meter merely displays exactly what the lambda output is. Most people are happy just to see Stoich at WOT, and some like to see everthing. Since the output of the probe is 0 to 1V and each segment is 0.1v, you do get the full range displayed.

 

If you understand how Lambda probes work, then the meter will tell you everything you need to know.

 

Kev

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looking good kev... know how about making somthingl like the lambda-boy for me? :lol:

 

Cheers bud :lol:

 

The Lambda boy is an excellent peice of kit if you want something more in-depth. Do you need to install the 5 wire probe though, or can you tap into the stock one? I prefer the idea of 2 lambda probes (1 for the meter and 1 for the ECU) but it just gets expensive!

 

Mine cost a tenner and tells me exactly what I need to know and I bet there is an LM3914 chip at the heart of Lambda boy's meter :wink:

 

Kev

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