peanut 0 Posted May 19, 2007 Has anyone got a how to guide on replacing the valve stem oil seals on VR6? Also need a list of tools needed if possible. Ive heard there is a tool to allow this to be done on the head, (air line pressurises the system keeping the valve up) also heard the one about feeding a bit of rope in the psark plug hole, till it hits the valve, rocking till tdc then the rope sits under the valve keeping it open. Other than the long nose valve pliers what else do i need to replace the seals? Got everything else to get the head off etc. Thanks in advance Gav Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ninoG60 0 Posted May 19, 2007 excise my ignorance mate, but how do u get the spring off, ie normally the calipers or spring compressor goes around the head and then pressure exerted on the speing compresses it and u get the collets off, how do u do it if you dont take the head off? be interested inthis as ive heard people say theyve done it without takin the head off, cheers and good luck mate Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M15 VW 0 Posted May 19, 2007 Right, we found the list of tools needed and a guide how to do it. Just waiting for prices to borrow/buy the tools. :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M15 VW 0 Posted May 19, 2007 Once we have the tools and have replaced them, we will let you know :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Skimask 0 Posted May 19, 2007 excise my ignorance mate, but how do u get the spring off, ie normally the calipers or spring compressor goes around the head and then pressure exerted on the speing compresses it and u get the collets off, how do u do it if you dont take the head off? be interested in this as I've heard people say they've done it without taking the head off, cheers and good luck mate This tool should do it - without removing the head. The valves are held in place by compressed air - pressurised through an adapter screwed into the plug hole. http://www.machinemart.co.uk/images/lib ... 211452.jpg I wouldn't use this method anyway - its much better removing the head and completely refurbishing it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CorradoVR6-Turbo 0 Posted May 20, 2007 by the time you take off the inlet manifold cams etc,what are you left with? You will have the exhaust to unbolt then the head comes off. Doing them with head in place is a bad idea. You can clean the head up,fresh gasket and lap valves in ,replace the guides etc. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M15 VW 0 Posted May 20, 2007 if i had the money to to a full rebuild i would. the head gasket has only just been done. the guides alone come to £250. I havent got that kind of money at the moment, hence trying to do it this way. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CorradoVR6-Turbo 0 Posted May 20, 2007 You had not replaced the stem seals with the head gasket? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CorradoVR6-Turbo 0 Posted May 20, 2007 oh well.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M15 VW 0 Posted May 20, 2007 There were no symptons to warrant overhaulling the head at the time. The reason that they gone since is due to when we changed the thermostat housing we found that there was no thermostat. We suspect because the oil is now running at a higher temperature (since fitting a new thermostat) it is either being sucked passed the rings or stem oil seals. From the outcome of the leak down test, it is pointing towards stem seals as opposed to rings. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted May 21, 2007 the guides alone come to £250. Eh? Where from? Don't waste your money on Dealer ones, get Glycol. They're MUCH cheaper and much better aswell. Got mine from the states for $72 with seals. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peanut 0 Posted May 21, 2007 anymore details of suppliers etc? Gav Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dinkus 10 Posted May 21, 2007 If you could take some pics while you do it and fancy doing a write up, this would make an ace wiki article :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted May 22, 2007 Got them from my usual supplier of yank stuff http://www.spturbo.com Import Duty is only 2.6% on engine parts. There's VAT on top and USPS (US Postal Service) is cheapest for shipping, but if you know someone in the states.....makes life cheaper and easier. If you don't, still works out cheaper than UK prices, and that's for the good stuff too, not pattern junk. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PhillT 0 Posted May 23, 2007 :thumbleft: Excellent link there, looks like a good supplier I know where I'll be getting my rebuild parts when the time comes!tempted to buy now as pound-dollars exchange rate is so good at the moment Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites