MK1Campaign 0 Posted June 15, 2007 You see so many VR6's that have either had rebuilds or new engines. Whats the usual cause of failure? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted June 15, 2007 I think (though not 100% sure) there are two key areas the VR. One is cooling.. I think as part of the comprimise for making it 2.9 one or two of the waterways are a little narrower than they ideally should be (around cylinder 6 I think?) and its very common for them to overheat in that area and eventually go pop around there. Seconds is oil. The VR engine does use oil (and in some cases can use rather a lot - as per the handbook!) and i've heard of a few situations where people have checked their oil and been shocked to see how little was in there - any more negligent and it could have been a siezed engine! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted June 15, 2007 They don't fail as such, they wear out. Happens to every engine eventually. The block is a weak spot due to cylinders 1 and 6 having the smallest cooling jackets, therefore run the hottest. The head is a weak spot due to guide wear, but all VW heads of the 80s/90s did that. The exhaust valves on the rear bank tend to get pitted quite quickly, again, because they run hotter than the front 3. The upper chain tensioner is a weak spot, but VW have redesigned that. Continous over heating will blow the head gasket or scratch a bore (usually 1 or 6) and that's when they need a build. 7 times out of 10, most rebuilds are done for preventative maintenance and a refresh to restore lost power and smoothness, which is usually always instigated by having to replace the chains. Engines that fail due to bore damage or head warping, gasket blowing are always caused by neglect and / or poor maintenance, or abuse. Look after it with a good quality oil, keep on top of the cooling system and fans and it'll look after you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted June 15, 2007 i've heard of a few situations where people have checked their oil and been shocked to see how little was in there - any more negligent and it could have been a siezed engine! They will get a shock if they check the oil level when the engine is still hot. The difference between checking it cold in the morning and just after stopping the engine can be as much as half a litre. The oil takes AAAAAGES to drip back into the sump on the VR.....just so you know ;-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Critical_Mass 10 Posted June 15, 2007 i've heard of a few situations where people have checked their oil and been shocked to see how little was in there - any more negligent and it could have been a siezed engine! They will get a shock if they check the oil level when the engine is still hot. The difference between checking it cold in the morning and just after stopping the engine can be as much as half a litre. The oil takes AAAAAGES to drip back into the sump on the VR.....just so you know ;-) I normally leave it a good 15 mins, with the oil filler cap off and (obv) dipstick out. Would you consider this long enough for all the oil to drop down? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted June 15, 2007 I'd wait at least 2 hours if doing a warm check. Best checked in the mornings before you start your journey as multigrade oils expand when hot due to the plasticisers in them. A cold check ensures all the oil has returned and it's at it's normal volume, therefore a more truthful check. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
double-6s 0 Posted June 15, 2007 I reckon one of the biggest killers of the vr engine is idiots like me ragging the nuts off them all the time! :) I had a funny conversation with my GF last night about how many engines I've killed over the years (and yes, i do look after them - ie, wait til oil is warm etc - it's just thatb I absolutely love wringing the neck out of a powerful engine. Lovely high rev action :) Alfa engine next :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ReekieVR 0 Posted June 15, 2007 So in gerneral, would the health of your engine be mainained for longer, by running everything as cool as possible? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gezza 0 Posted June 15, 2007 So in gerneral, would the health of your engine be mainained for longer, by running everything as cool as possible? nope its not a case of that its a case of makeing sure the oil is warm before planting your foot!!! on the other hand not ragging it at all helps!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ReekieVR 0 Posted June 15, 2007 but if i wait untill my oil is at 80 before ragging it ( which i always do anyway ) and my stat / fans dont allow the water temp above say 90, will my engine be in better nick than a normal one with water around 100 - 110 ? ( obviously ove many years and miles ) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gezza 0 Posted June 15, 2007 its down to wear and tear obviously the harder you push anything mechancial the shorter its life will be but if you let everything get to a normal operating temp then surely its ok imho of course, but if you look at it this way ie 2 brand new engines both waiting til operating temp before right foot is planted then the one that revs to 6k and the one that revs to 4k the one that revs to 4k would surely be the better the engine as it hasnt been pushed as hard?? anyway just wait til nice and hot ie 90 and 90, your ok as long as serviceing has been done on schedule??? if its gonna break it will break!! its an engine afterall and nothing is really guranteed :( :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted June 17, 2007 Engines are consumables, just like most car parts.. They use bearings, they rely on friction to keep the oil from the cylinders, they wear. Either drive it really gently all the time and have it last hundreds of ks or drive it hard (but only once warmed through) and expect to have to have work done. Driving it hard on a cold engine, or doing extreme things with the rev limiter or running the oil levels low and you should expect to have work done VERY soon .. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stan 24v 0 Posted June 17, 2007 Mine needed sorting due to a water pipe bursting, nothing else. And at the end of the day you have a 2.9 V6, thats why they get driven hard, cos you love the sound and feel of it 8) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Critical_Mass 10 Posted June 17, 2007 Mine needed sorting due to a water pipe bursting, nothing else. And at the end of the day you have a 2.9 V6, thats why they get driven hard, cos you love the sound and feel of it 8) That's it. There's going to be a balance between giving it some boot and looking after it i.e. only giving it some right foot when all the temps are up and keeping it off the redline. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites