black dub 0 Posted September 5, 2007 can any body help? i fitted a raceland 6 branch manifold & de-cat pipe on my 1993 vr6 the other week end and since that my engine has over run for about 10-20 seconds after turning off the key (3 times out of about 10 trips to work.) it is really bugging me now as im all ready to start fitting a VF stage 2 charger kit but want to try get this problem sorted first. please any help greatfull. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted September 5, 2007 I'd be looking at an electrical fault..... sounds like something is keeping the X relay energised on the fuse board when you kill the ignition. If it's not the ignition switch (common), it will be a short somewhere. Had the same thing happen to me earlier this year. I could park up, take the key out and lock the door with the engine still running :lol: My problem was the reverse light / alternator / starter solenoid loom down by the starter motor, which over 13 years of rubbing eachother had worn all the insulation off the wires and they shorted out. The result was no reverse lights (the first clue) and the X relay on the board staying active with no ignition feed! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
black dub 0 Posted September 5, 2007 thanks. i thought it may be the ignition switch but im sure they are not cheap, so ill have a look round all the wiring that i had to remove to do the manifold first just in case there is something that has gone wrong or iv missed. also you say about the relay X on the fues box how do i know which one this is so i can remove it and test it if possible? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Blassberg 0 Posted September 5, 2007 Ignition switch is about £15 max. for a genuine VAG item, don't use a cheaper imitation because they are crapola.. They are quite fiddly to fit. X-relief (also known as load reduction) relay is position 4, i.e. fourth from the left on the top row of the relay board. I'm slightly confused by the symptoms; if the igniton circuit is remaining energised, why does it stop after 10-20 seconds? I would have expected it to just keep running. Best wishes RB Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mattkh 0 Posted September 5, 2007 Hi Unburnt fuel and incorrect timing are my guesses. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Skimask 0 Posted September 5, 2007 I'm slightly confused by the symptoms; if the igniton circuit is remaining energised, why does it stop after 10-20 seconds? I would have expected it to just keep running. Best wishes RB Probably residual pressure in the fuel system, the pump may be switched off, but the ignition circuit is still on. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted September 6, 2007 I'm sure 10 to 20 seconds was a guesstimation, but it varied on mine. Some days the motor would stop instantly, some days it would stop after 10 secs, sometimes 30 secs....and on others it would keep running permanently, which was obviously down to how the shorted wires were jiggling about and touching eachother at the time. In my case, the short was energising the whole fuse board, so both the ECU and pump relays had to be pulled in order to stop the motor on the days when it wanted to keep running forever! If it's running on for the same duration every time, it could be a lazy contact in the ignition switch. As for stopping, the VR stops instantly when all is well electrically speaking. As soon as the crank signal drops, that's it, power is instantly cut to the injectors and ignition coil so they shouldn't run on. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mattkh 0 Posted September 7, 2007 If it's running on for the same duration every time, it could be a lazy contact in the ignition switch. Hi I would love to see photos of these contacts inside the ignition switch. How can we arrange this ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SamG40 0 Posted November 17, 2010 Could this x relay mentioned also stop the car starting on the key? The missus has had the RAC out tonight because the car failed to start and it turned out there was no power to the starter but he tested the ignition switch as fine. He's put a wire on the starter that we can bridge to the battery to start it. His computer said the starter relay also did the reverse lights which arent working either so would this relay be at fault? I've pulled the fourth one from the left as mentioned above and it is labelled 18 with a part number of 191 937 503. Worth trying a new one? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted November 17, 2010 Try bridging the relay's fuseboard pins with a bypass wire, which mimics pins 30 and 87 of the relay. If it starts on the key, the relay is dead. If it doesn't it's either a fuse or a wiring fault and if the latter you might want to start your search in the place i mentioned previously. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted November 17, 2010 Could this x relay mentioned also stop the car starting on the key? The missus has had the RAC out tonight because the car failed to start and it turned out there was no power to the starter but he tested the ignition switch as fine. He's put a wire on the starter that we can bridge to the battery to start it. His computer said the starter relay also did the reverse lights which arent working either so would this relay be at fault? I've pulled the fourth one from the left as mentioned above and it is labelled 18 with a part number of 191 937 503. Worth trying a new one? Sam,if the switch isn't a new black type one then change it - they fail intermittently so I'd say it's more likely to be this than anything else... less than £20 from VAG Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SamG40 0 Posted November 22, 2010 Cheers for the advice lads. I bridged the X relay (heater turned on) and it still wouldn’t start on the key. I didn’t have time at the weekend but the next port of call is the wiring loom. Supercharged, when you say the ‘new black type’ for the ignition switch, what do you mean by that? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Timbo 0 Posted November 22, 2010 The Corrado originally came with a beige coloured ignition switch that was prone to breaking. At some point it was superceded by a black version which is allegedly more reliable. I have a black one because my beige one broke :roll:. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SamG40 0 Posted December 15, 2010 Well after changing another relay and the ignition switch it still wouldnt fire on the key so I took it to an auto electrician who found a broken wire the the auto box. Probably wouldnt fire because it didnt know whether the box was in park or neutral. Just glad its sorted and at least I've saved myself the hassle of changing the ignition switch when that inevitably caused problems later down the line, managed to do it in the garage at the weekend while the weather warmed up a tad. Someone might want to update the wiki though, it cost me £26 with vat from the stealer, thats gone up a bit! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites