daniboy1_2_3 0 Posted October 14, 2007 Im in the process of flushing out the cooling system on my 1991 G60 as there was a lot of oil in the expansion bottle and the water temp gauge was running cool (never getting above 75 degrees). As usual i noticed another problem, a leak on the plastic water pipe junction on end of engine block (gearbox side) so i changed this for a new one. I refilled the system and another leak emerged, this time on the plastic junction on the front of the engine which has connections from the water pump and from the rad top hose, part number KKP-6 037 121 133 A has anyone any idea if this part is available and how much i should expect to pay for it? With the cooling system refilled it seemed that there was an airlock as the level was rising and there was no heat from the heater. Does anyone know of a good way of riding most of the air from the system? Any help appreciated. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted October 14, 2007 Hello, a pressurised system will always go at it's weakest point, to do it properly on an original car you really need to do all the plastic housings inc the rad elbow and thermostat housing (altho easier when changing water pump) along with checking the condition of the rad and hoses... Water temp, I would change the 2 sensors on that part while your at it - they underread with age - When i did mine it cost about £50 for all the plastic bits plus the 2 sensors, new bolts and O rings etc... I think I had already bought a pump and stat with housing tho... If you've got oil in the header tank then you've either got a blown head gasket or oil cooler, you can delete the cooler by fitting 2 water hoses off a MK1 (usually done as part of fitting a mocal kit from Gwerks etc) When filling up with G12+ you need to fill slowly (VW say 5 mins) via the rad top hose and wait for the level to appear in the exp tank, then top this up and run with the cap off until the stat opens, you will see the level go up then down slightly, at this point tighten the (blue) cap and run until the fan kicks in (should be 95 degrees on water guage), switch off and let it cool down before topping up again. I think you may have a stat stuck open by the way if your only seeing 75 degrees but worth changing the black senor first on that plastic housing, the other thing about the cold air could be seized recall valves going to the heater matrix, only real way to fix this is a new Mk3 matrix if yours is still original and 2 new pipes (the new MK3 ones have built in valves so you can revert back to the standard pipes) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daniboy1_2_3 0 Posted October 16, 2007 Thanks for the reply. I was pretty sure matrix was ok as i had hot air just before flushing cooling system so must have been an airlock. I disconnected the matrix pipe and blew through it, got water coming out of the block. Filled the pipe with water, reconnected, then disconnected the top hose and filled the system from there. Still no hot air but all it took was a little blip on the throttle and hey presto hot air. I imagine the water pump is not as effective as it was but thats all it took to get water flowing through the matrix again. The water temp is reading around 90 degrees before the fan kicks in for a short while so im happy with that for now. Next job is major service and rebuild charger. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted October 16, 2007 Cool - that sounds fine, those matrix valves might have stuck slightly, they don't last forever... Well worth sticking a new pump on while the charger is off, makes the job so much easier! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
