VR6 Power with Schrick VGI manifold and 268's?

[chazrad 0]

Thanks for looking out though. There is no stronger diff. than a Peloquin and the drive shafts seem to last just fine for sub 300chp applications if the driver puts the power down progressively and doesn't let the tires squeal in vain. Most of us can't help ourselves though, but it is an option if the budget runs out too fast. The stock differential itself is recommended to be upgraded, because of it's tendency to self-detonate, even with stock engines. There were many cases where this happened and it took out the bell-housing along with it.

 

I think Quaife in the UK, might have something to say about your claim that Peloquin make the strongest diffs! Nevertheless, I know opinions are divided over which is best.

Whilst I'm no expert, I do know that there are plenty of people running forced induction VRs who have never had a problem with their drive shafts. Others might know better, but I think the standard VR ones have got to be good for at least 350whp. Put another way, I don't know of many people who have uprated them. I am happy to be corrected on this. :D

 

Whilst it is clearly going to depend on what target BHP figure you have in mind, it is not a necessity to upgrade all the internals in the engine before going turbo. I know of several turbo VR cars (incl Sukh's show car VRT Corrado) who run completely stock internals, 400hp and have not had any problems in something like 20,000 miles since it was built and mapped. However, you do need to ensure the engine is in fine fettle before you start strapping on blowers of any kind. You also defo need a spacer gasket and ARP bolts. The point is forged pistons and uprated conrods are not a necessity.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

The Peloquin is an exact copy of the Quaife.....and that's Quaife's fault for not filing for an international patent.

 

The main reason folk go with the Peloquin over the Quaife is because the diff bearings and crown wheel bolts are thrown in with the diff and you get a lifetime warranty too.

 

Quaife are a typcial, old school english engineering firm (read arrogant wankers) and supply those at extra cost as a 'fitting kit' and there's no warranty either because they assume you will be fitting it to a race car. So you're looking at around £700 for the quaife bits and bobs compared to around £450 for the Peloquin. I despise Quaife even more because US customers do get a warranty.....nice way to treat your domestic customers.....fecking arseholes.

 

Had I known about the Pelly before I bought the Quaife, there's no way I would have given Quaife my money.

 

And don't get a Quaife upgraded gear set, they are shite.

[cata 0]

From what I understood, Peloquin apparently strengthened the components a bit after cloning the Quaife. Regardless, I have never heard of anyone blowing either one of them.

 

cheesewire, I remember reading through your early posts when you were still fiddling with n/a. Do you regret trying it out before going for the big numbers? How is everything holding up for you so far, you've been boosting for over a year now.

[chazrad 0]

Well, happy to stand corrected on the Quaife/Peloquin thing. You learn something new everyday. Ihave an LSD down on my list of future mods. :)

[cata 0]

If only the Corrado came stock with an LSD. There wouldn't be so many debates how the Integra TypeR is faster, which was mainly because it came with one of these from the factory.

I didn't get to play with my C as much as I expected to, in over a year of ownership, but when I did, that LSD really eliminated most of the tale-tale signs that it's FWD. There was barely any torque-steer and the wheels weren't eager to break loose, unless I tried to do so, consciously. I know you'll never hear someone complaining about having one but I would honestly take it over a big valve head, even though it makes some awesome engine notes besides the little bit of extra power.

 

Like I said before, a worn out Corrado is a good candidate for this, because it's a great chance to build yourself the "new" Corrado that people been raving about from internet rumors. Why buy a remake of the classic when you can put together your own new car. In this situation, in my opinion, it's best to get most of the drive train redone and get it out of the way so that a car this old will never leave you stranded. That also includes all of the engine components that are attached on the outside.

I remember how all the broken stuff and problems took away from the joy of finally owning one. It kills the whole purpose of owning one IMO, if it's always going to run like a POS with one thing going after the other.

[corozin 0]

Well have a Quaife and I'm well happy with it. People who try and follow me aren't happy though as it seems to put the power down very well indeed. I've not heard of anyone trashing an ATB in a road car. My understanding is that it's already built as a race part and by implication over-engineered as a road car part, regardless of whether Peloquin strenghened thiers or not.

 

As regards the "myth" that is the Integra Type-R, it is an amazing handling car but frankly when you look at the engineering involved there was nothing really complicated about what they did. Simply lightweight front & rear upper & lower strut braces at both front and back of the car, combined with an LSD and some weight reduction was all that was involved.

 

I know the 'Teg is a cracking little thing but frankly it's not complex to do all these things to a Corrado (I know this!) and I can definately say from experience on the track that once you've got a VR6 buttoned down reasonably with an ATB fitted it's able to beat up the Honda quite reasonably (ducks and waits for torrents of flames from Honda enthusiasts)

 

Of course, that might be down to the possibility that Teg owners all drive little bed-wetting little girls. The car may indeed still be faster of course, LOL

[cata 0]

:lol: my God...I'm crying with laughter.

I didn't know they also came with strut braces. They really tried hard on that one didn't they.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

cheesewire, I remember reading through your early posts when you were still fiddling with n/a. Do you regret trying it out before going for the big numbers? How is everything holding up for you so far, you've been boosting for over a year now.

 

No regrets 8) It's like with any car project, you start off with what you can afford and when your tastes and expectations change, you upgrade to the next thing. The only mod I did regret was the Vortech Supercharger. The Schrick, 268s, throttle etc and the turbo have all been great fun 8)

 

I had a few teething problems with the turbo setup, but mainly down to the bad luck. I've had the car nearly 5 years and it's seen lots of different setups, so it was bound to throw a wobbler eventually :lol:

 

Seems OK now and the power delivery is where I like it now :)

[corozin 0]

:lol: my God...I'm crying with laughter.

I didn't know they also came with strut braces. They really tried hard on that one didn't they.

 

Oh it's a corker of a car make no mistake but what I meant was the actual methods used to make it whizzy weren't anything particularly revolutionary except for the fact that very very few stock road cars have ever fitted those bits to a car at that time. Nowadays it's becoming more common to see upper front strut braces on new cars, Astons, Jags and BMW's certainly get them a lot now nowadays. It's also interesting to note that the Nissan 350z also has a rear upper brace as standard too (it's really nicely engineered - take a look sometime). More and more performance cars are starting to use the Quaife ATB as well, recent examples being the Ford Focus RS and currently the Renault Megane F1-230.

 

But the Integra has lower strut braces too, and what beauties they are. If you find yourself following an ITR at night you can see the lower rear brace really clearly, as the titanium-based alloy used really reflects headlights.

 

Of course whilst these types of modifications produce dramatic performance improvements in a car they also create compromises in other areas which manufacturers are understanderbly reticent to implement across whole model ranges. With an ATB for example a side-effect is that the car becomes more susceptible to tramlining under power, and strut bracing a car seriously sharpens the handling but also reduces the compliance in a way that makes many customer feel uncomfortable.