Toad 0 Posted October 29, 2007 The little pipe that runs from the left of the radiator (as you look at it from the front, to the header tank you should see water and air bubbles coming out of this pipe through the header tank moulding when you have the engine running. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
easypops 8 Posted October 29, 2007 The little pipe that runs from the left of the radiator (as you look at it from the front, to the header tank you should see water and air bubbles coming out of this pipe through the header tank moulding when you have the engine running. ah that pipe....i think its ok as some fluid was coming through it this morning Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
easypops 8 Posted October 29, 2007 Hmmm - I think the main problem is the fan not working, we need to find out why... I don't know where the control module is tho if not in the engine bay??? The air lock should go once water is circulating, especially if you run with out the cap off for a few mins... sure the water pumps are working, certainly sounds like the rad is getting hot... i think this might be the module?....not sure though....even if autodata says so i'll go and check to see if it is loose/burnt/anything?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yalan 0 Posted October 29, 2007 Just finished dealing with cooling issues on my 2.0 16v. To my knowledge, the temp gauge on the cluster is fed info from the sensor somethere on the block? And the fan switching is controlled by a temp gauge on the radiator. So although the cluster may think its overheating, the rad may be totally unaware. First I'd check the fan actually works and the circuit has power. Don't quote me, but isn't there some sort of 'short test' whereby you short something or other to earth and it simulates the fan switch closing? And I think you can also test the rad switch using a ciggy lighter and multimeter to check contacts open / close etc? Search is your friend here - sorry! If the fan works and there is power to the circuit, then perhaps the water is not flowing round the circuit and into through the radiator fast enough to convince the rad sensor there is a heat issue. Blockage - flush & reverse flush? Before doing this though, I'd perhaps replace the thermostat once and for all to eliminate it from the situation. Dodgy thermostats have been known to cause all sorts of issues. When I refitted everything and re-juiced the system, I also had an airlock in the matrix. I got it warm, then gave the two pipes into the bulkhead a good squeeze and pump to try and move any air. Didn't seem to have much effect, but next time I went out for a drive, it cleared quickly and warm air returned! G'luck lad. As I say, first I'd check for power in the fan switching circuit. (And as a side note - you can also check for fan function by shorting out the after-run switch to earth with the engine & ignition all off. It is the single [EDIT: BROWN WITH WHITE TRACE] wire on the front left edge of the engine rocker cover (as you stand in front of the car looking down). A single wire which pulls off easily. Just touch the metal contacts to a metal part of the engine and the fan should start to spin. If not, keep investigating the fan circuit!) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
easypops 8 Posted October 29, 2007 (And as a side note - you can also check for fan function by shorting out the after-run switch to earth with the engine & ignition all off. It is the single yellow wire on the front left edge of the engine rocker cover (as you stand in front of the car looking down). A single wire which pulls off easily. Just touch the metal contacts to a metal part of the engine and the fan should start to spin. If not, keep investigating the fan circuit!) i'll try that right now :D probably blow something up though :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
easypops 8 Posted October 29, 2007 yalan, i tried the wire for the fan over run but no reaction from the fan....its a brown/white wire on mine though? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yalan 0 Posted October 29, 2007 The one just under the oil cap in that pic - yeah thats the one - brown with a white trace! It isn't anything conclusive, but I'd look further into the fan switching if I were you. There are 1000s of posts on the forum and if you look hard enough there may well be one telling you how to check the circuit (ensuring it has power feed etc). Maybe even a method of bridging the contacts to get the fan running to test it is OK. Sorry can't help much more off the top of my head. Get that circuit & fan checked! TRY THIS LOT!! - Great post Henny - should be part of the WIKI I reckon! http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10173 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
easypops 8 Posted November 3, 2007 another update 1. took the top and bottom hose off the rad....flushed it both ways 2. took the top matrix hose off at the engine....flushed it till water came out of the bottom hose 3. put hose in header tank....water comes out bottom hose 4. refit pipes except top rad one 5. fill system(again!) thru top hose....blue cap off 6. keep filling slowly until water/coolant comes out top of rad 7. refit top hose 8. turn car on....... 9. time for henny's electrical checklist Stand at the front of the car with the bonnet open. Look down the righthand side of the radiator inside the engine bay next to the battery tray. About 3/4 of the way down the radiator there is a brass plug with an electrical multiplug on it. This is your fan thermo switch. 8) Remove the electrical connector, and, with the ignition switched on, connect a piece of wire between the RED wire and the RED/WHITE wire... The fan should start spinning... now disconnect the wire and re-connect it between the RED and the RED/BLACK wire... The fan should start spinning, but quite a bit faster than last time... i did this and the fan did run but ONLY when i bridged between RED and RED/BLACK ??? the fuse is a 30A which was ok but i tried another to be sure...still the same....which means the RED/WHITE wire has no power?? what could this be? is there another fuse hidden somewhere? then i tried henny's electrical guide part 2 If this all works, then you have a broken thermo switch. Simply unscrew it, and replace it with another one the same (only not broken! ;) ) They have the temp range they are supposed to switch at stamped into the side of them, so you can identify which one it is you need to get from your list above.... If the previous tests do not make the fan spin on either speed, check that there is +12V on the RED wire which is supposed to connect to the thermo switch. If there isn't then you have a broken wire or possibly a dead fuse. If it only span on one speed, or didn't spin at all, then you've probably got a dead fuse... but here's how to check the wiring and the fan too... If there is 12V on the red wire, disconnect the multi plug from the fan on which there are 3 wires, Brown (-ve) Red/black (high speed +12V) and red/white (low speed and fan run on +12V) Again, with the ignition on, connect a bit of wire between the red and the red/white on the thermoswitch wiring. you should now get 12V between the red/white and the brown on the fan wiring... now do the same for the red and red/black... you should now get 12V between the red/black and the brown on the fan wiring... If you don't get 12V on either of these tests, you have a dead fuse, or possibly a broken wire. If you get 12V on BOTH of these tests, then you need a new fan. :| I found that I was only getting around 8V from either of the 2 feeds to the fan motor which was causing my over heating... I've solved this with a simple wiring loom with a relay... now my fan (which is an aftermarket one anyway) kicks in flat out at the lower temp or on overrun, and is wired to also come on flat out on the higher temp in case the thermoswitch fails on the lower setting so I don't go into meltdown... ;) Hope this all helps... 8) Good luck! i only get +12V on the second part of this bit...."now do the same for the red and red/black... you should now get 12V between the red/black and the brown on the fan wiring... If you don't get 12V on either of these tests, you have a dead fuse, or possibly a broken wire. If you get 12V on BOTH of these tests, then you need a new fan. :|" so after all that i think that as the fan came on then that rules out the fan motor open to suggestions :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon_vr6 1 Posted November 3, 2007 Your problem sounds similar if not the same as mine!! All worked last week then all of a sudden no fans apart from the 3rd stage! Im going to take it to a garage near me monday and see if they can sort it!! Mine warms up as normal then where it is supposed to kick in the fans nothing happens and it just then creeps up to and over 110 and coolant lamp starts flashing! If the garage sort it ill let you know what it is! I would have a go myself but electrics aint my thing shorting wires and all that! To me it must be the thermoswitch or the fuses are each of the fuses for each of the fan stages?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
easypops 8 Posted November 5, 2007 i took the car to the garage this morning.....sick of trying while not really getting anywhere....also got a bad cold......gave them a new thermostat and a new water pump to fit.....fingers crossed cheers Jon_vr6......interested to see if you get yours sorted....good luck Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
easypops 8 Posted November 5, 2007 progress.....just back from the garage....turns out there was no thermostat in it ?.....so must have been removed before i got it......over 2 years ago now :) even better than that is when the water pump came out the impeller doesn't turn !......the end that the pulley is attatched to turns but the impeller stays still.....so i think/hope that this will solve my overheating issues.......the car will have a thermostat for the first time in ages. also as toad mentioned earlier the bleed pipe is perished inside the braided cover....so a new one of them as well :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yalan 0 Posted November 5, 2007 progress.....just back from the garage....turns out there was no thermostat in it ?.....so must have been removed before i got it......over 2 years ago now :) even better than that is when the water pump came out the impeller doesn't turn !......the end that the pulley is attatched to turns but the impeller stays still.....so i think/hope that this will solve my overheating issues.......the car will have a thermostat for the first time in ages. also as toad mentioned earlier the bleed pipe is perished inside the braided cover....so a new one of them as well :D Glad to hear you're getting somewhere. A dead pump might have helped your MPG but certainly wouldn't have helped cooling. Perhaps someone took the stst out when the pump died to try and get things flowing again?! Fingers crossed....... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon_vr6 1 Posted November 5, 2007 Mine looks like its the temp sensor (yellow one on the thermo housing) theyve ordered one and hopefully back to normal 2moz just glad it decided to die now and not this friday when i go to birmingham! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2_Door_fun 0 Posted November 6, 2007 progress.....just back from the garage....turns out there was no thermostat in it ?.....so must have been removed before i got it......over 2 years ago now :) even better than that is when the water pump came out the impeller doesn't turn !......the end that the pulley is attatched to turns but the impeller stays still.....so i think/hope that this will solve my overheating issues.......the car will have a thermostat for the first time in ages. also as toad mentioned earlier the bleed pipe is perished inside the braided cover....so a new one of them as well :D Hi. Interesting post as these overheating ones always are.. I'm on my 3rd G60 an not one of em has the fan worked correctly.. New sensors, run with a stat and no stat and new water pumps... Still the fan will not auto start.. The G60'd do not have the fuse block by teh expansion tank either. So even less to work with. Does my head in..I have had to fit a switch to the dash of all my G's to start the fan. Runs perfect with the switch but will not spin up on just the engine sensors. A friend at work had the same problem on his late Polo. He fitted a brand new fan and it all worked perfectly. Even though we did short the fan and it span up fine... Just food for thought if the new pump n stuff doesn't roll it... Scary about yr pump by the way :shock: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gogsboy 0 Posted November 7, 2007 Mine looks like its the temp sensor (yellow one on the thermo housing) theyve ordered one and hopefully back to normal 2moz just glad it decided to die now and not this friday when i go to birmingham! Does this mean you have to take your newly fitted housing to pieces again? :shock: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon_vr6 1 Posted November 7, 2007 nope sensors just come straight out of the housing take out the old and put in a new! But kind of got robbed by the garage for a half hour job :shock: All sorted now though! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gogsboy 0 Posted November 7, 2007 nope sensors just come straight out of the housing take out the old and put in a new! But kind of got robbed by the garage for a half hour job :shock: All sorted now though! I see, thats not so bad then, guess that would have been a nightmare had it to come apart again! Robbed, surely they just charge you an hours time...mind you can be expensive hours at a lot of garages Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
