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Madrocker

G60 not running right after repairs

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Hey everyone.

I'm having a bit of a problem with my Corrado G60 after some shall we say major work.

Basically what happened is I went through what I thought was a shallow ford after some rain, Witch turned out to be about 4" deep.

the charger sucked up a ton of water and stopped the engine dead.

 

After removing the head I found 2 bent con rods (No 2 & 3), a blown head gasket and oil that looked more like white paint!.

So I replace the con rods, put a new head gasket on, get the head skimmed and got all of the water out.

 

Now its all back together and it runs realy badly.

It starts up from cold brilliantly and ticks over nice as well, but when I try to rev it it splutters a little and splutters a lot when I try to hold the revs at a constant level. when I let go of the throttle the revs drop right down and it nearly stalls before it picks up again (some times it does stall)

 

It has been garaged for around 6 months whilst I've been waiting for parts.

Does anybody have any Ideas whats wrong with my poor old G60 or does it just need a good run to clean out her system?

 

Cheers Dave.

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It could be anything really. Can you just replace bent rods on their own? I would of thought you'd need a whole set and poss 2x new pistons. Did you get the charger checked out? I would of thought if you bent rods the charger would get some damage trying to compress water. :shock:

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Well I took it to a VW place today and the looked over it and said that the mechanicals are fine, and it must be an electrical problem.

there diagnostic computer was broken so I'm taking it somewhere else to have it checked.

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Well I took it to a VW place today and the looked over it and said that the mechanicals are fine, and it must be an electrical problem.

there diagnostic computer was broken so I'm taking it somewhere else to have it checked.

 

Did you remove the intercooler to see if it's full of water?

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Well I took it to a VW place today and the looked over it and said that the mechanicals are fine, and it must be an electrical problem.

there diagnostic computer was broken so I'm taking it somewhere else to have it checked.

 

Did you remove the intercooler to see if it's full of water?

 

Yes, that was one of the first things to come off.

I'm getting the feeling theres a senser gone somewhere, or it needs a good run to clear it out.

So far I have only had it running in my garage and driven it onto a trailer

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Ahhh the vaccum system might have water in it. All the different bit's of pipework around the inlet manifold would need to checked including the ISV. Also the FPR might have water in the air pressure side!

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Just make sure that you have put the vacuum pipes back onto the throttle body correctly. If in doubt swap them over and see if it makes a difference. The one that runs to the ECU needs to be on the (as you look at it from the front) left hand side of the butterflys, so it measures boost as the throttle opens. The other side is a permenant boost that runs to the CO pot.

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Maybe a bit late now but couldn't you claim on insurance??

I'm 22 and it costs me a lot for insurance anyway, lol.

I took to to got it plugged in to the diagnostic computer and guess what...... somebody has hacked the wiring loom up and for some reason removed the connector and all traces of the weiring!

 

Now I'm stumped.

I think all I can realy do is replace the lambda and air flow sensor then double check the timing. (as well as everything you guys have suggested).

 

Can I just make sure I'm right with the timing with you lot.

No.1 at TDC (as indicated on the flywheel),

The dot on the cam flush with the top face of the head,

The center of the rotor arm aligned with the mark on the dizzy housing,

Get it hot and use a strobe to time it to 8 degrease BTDC.

 

Cheers Dave.

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