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ARB questions (just trawled the search function...)

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Does anyone know the diameter of the front anti-roll bar for an early 16v Corrado?

 

I ask because I was on VAGCAT earlier on and they have two sizes, although I realised that I'm more likely to have the smaller size and the G60/VR6 is likely to have the bigger size.

 

*wanders off to look up figures*

 

hmm, interesting.... VC has the VR6 labelled at 20mm, whereas the KR and PG (16v and G60 respectively) are labelled as either 18mm or 23mm.

 

If I have the 18mm and the 23mm was still available from VW (and fitted), would it be a decent upgrade? I mean, it's diameter is 28% larger than the 18mm which seems a lot, and I'm guessing it will cost a lot less than the Eibachs/Weitecs etc.

 

I've actually been doing about "Torsional Loading of a Solid Beam" today in some Physics-Mechanics work, so I know the 23mm will be stiffer ands stronger and keep wheel planted much more effectively.

 

Sounds like it could be a good stopgap between standard and brand new £200 ish uprated items? I'm trying to keep costs down as the burgundy is currently handling like a pig, and I am going to get some standard replacement items (bones, balljoints etc) and swap them in.

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No-one has _anything_ to say? :shock:

 

Fair enough... VW DO indeed make a 23mm ARB for ~£100 all in (must be the G60/VR6 one) and seeing as my 16v one is ratty and only 18mm I think I will buy it.

 

Did anyone else know about this?

 

I don't know what diameter the Eibach / Weitecs are but this one is a VAG part.

 

Also, Flourescent green arbs on a dark purple car? :pukeleft:

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23mm? Jesus.... the Eibach 'uprated' one is only 22mm!!

 

Yep, VR6 = 20mm front, 8V/16V = 18mm front.

 

23mm with the stock rear bar (inside the torsion beam) will lead to some hefty understeer.

 

I would personally fit a pair of Eibachs or H&Rs, or if you prefer a more oversteery feel, just an uprated rear @ 25mm.

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I don't think I'm a good enough driver to be able to tell the difference between the ARBs affecting the turn-in etc.

 

Although I do like the sound of oversteer as opposed to understeer....is there any benefit to dialling in more oversteer with a big front bar?

 

Also, am i right in thinking that uprating both ARBs the same amount will keep the car's balance the same as standard, only stiffer?

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Here's the screen from VAGCAT, highlighted:

 

arbs.JPG[/attachment:2xuzkgvb]

 

I will see if I can find someone who will sell only rear ARBs... is there any way of getting the stock rear ARB out of the torsion bar, or is it properly integrated?

 

Cheers Cheesey :D

 

Edit: Awesome do the Rear 25mm for £155.

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RE your last statement, yep! Well, the Eibachs will always be better because you'll have a proper rear ARB which the standard car doesn't have!

 

You will notice the difference immediately if you fit just an uprated rear ARB. If you fit just a bigger front, you won't notice much at all, expect that on a wet roundabout you'll get more understeer!

 

The rear ARB does most of the work in the corners mate.

 

It takes a LOT to get the tail out in a C, even with a fat rear ARB, but if you want a more neutral balance, go with the pair of Eibachs ;-)

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A bigger front bar only will cause more understeer

 

A bigger rear only will cause more oversteer

 

Doing both the same rate will in theory keep it the same balance as standard.

 

I have 25mm neuspeed front and rear which for me is nearly right, quite neutral but does understeer a little but alot of people dont like it that way. But i have coilovers and adjustable damping so slightly stiffer out back does the same thing, makes it more oversteery, as does tyre pressures and height.

 

Im soon going to be changing the rear bar though for a 28mm so i can play about with all the above things to get it how i want handling, ride height and comfort wise.

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Im soon going to be changing the rear bar though for a 28mm so i can play about with all the above things to get it how i want handling, ride height and comfort wise.

 

FIrst refusal? :lol:

 

Cheers for the other info, it does make a lot of sense.

 

on an suspension-related tip, does anyone know how hard it is to press poly bushes into wishbones? Could I do it on a bench-mounted clamp?

 

I will look at the eibachs though, thanks :thumbleft:

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No-one has _anything_ to say? :shock:

 

 

 

blimey that worked well.

 

i might pinch that phrase for my threads :lol:

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the stock rear bar (inside the torsion beam)

 

Does anyone know the "acting" diameter of this bar?

 

I'm just thinking perhaps Neuspeed rear 25 with a VAG front 23?

 

To keep it the same rate, the rear would have to be ~20mm for the uprating to a Front 23 and Rear 25mm to be the same rate (27% increase in diameter) overall.

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Just do it as Kev says you will notice a difference just doing the rear.

 

Basically with the figures you throw around keeping it the same handling wise but stiffer on the 2 bars, and then adding the force of the bar in beam ARB will make it ever so slightly oversteery which is a good thing, you want a little not a lot.

 

I will keep you in mind for mine, i just need to find 1 cheap enough.

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Here's the screen from VAGCAT, highlighted:

 

11 seems to point to a rubber bush? :-) I suspect there may have been bigger ARB options for different markets though.

 

The stock rear bar looks to be about 22mm or so, without measuring it.

 

Try not to think of it as an ARB though because it just doesn't work! It's 'leverage' points are each end of the torsion beam, which is useless. The uprated ones anchor at the ends of the trailing arms and use the torsion beam as support. This is MASSIVELY more effective.

 

So when working out the 'balance' when using uprated bars, treat the rear bar as an addition, not an uprate ;-)

 

The best balanced kit imo is the Eibach. 22 front, 25 rear, but as Junkie says, there are other influencing factors. Rear turret braces, 17" wheels, coilovers etc all affect matters.

 

If you're running on standard wheels and suspension, the pair of ARBS will work really well. If you're already lowered, you can get away with just the rear tbh. It's not as over steery as people think. The nose just turns-in sharper. I've been running rear ARBs only for about 3 years now (60K) and I've never come close to losing the rear :-)

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[ I've been running rear ARBs only for about 3 years now (60K) and I've never come close to losing the rear :-)

 

I have lost it twice on roundabouts :oops: both in wet/damp conditions, just going way too fast though and once with a cop car behind me, both proper 180 spins.

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Good skills :lol:

 

I have to say, my C's arse feels very planted. I tend to keep the tank to 3/4 most of the time, plus there's a 3 gallon tank in the boot for the chargecooler, oh and the battery!

 

All that weight keeps the tail in check ;-)

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Yes photobucket but how about this then

 

CorradoG60Turbo012-1.jpg[/attachment:uglbp6yu]

 

2 huge amps

12" sub + box

18mm MDF

EQ

Power cap

and other bits and bobs out of sight

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Here's the screen from VAGCAT, highlighted:

 

11 seems to point to a rubber bush? :-)

 

Yes yoiu are quite right. For Vagcat, you need to pay attention to the coloured sections in the list and COMPLETELY IGNORE the grey section lines. They are useless.

 

I got caught out with that a lot trying to find the right part number!

 

11 is ringed purely cos I can't use MS Paint properly :lol:

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The best balanced kit imo is the Eibach. 22 front, 25 rear, but as Junkie says, there are other influencing factors. Rear turret braces, 17" wheels, coilovers etc all affect matters.

 

I was just about to scoff about your rear strut braces, thinking how utterly useless they would be considering the fixed metal panel behind the rear seats (which is way more structural than a brace) and to my surprise the Corrado doesn't have one!

 

Well... you learn something new every day! :lol:

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