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dazG60

elec windows

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The main elec window fuse is number 15 on the fuse panel (# 1 being nearest to the left) and there's also a fuse on top of the fuse box like jay says that will also make the electric windows not work as I have found out in the past I think it is a 15 amp fuse for both.

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The control box for the electric windows is in the rear right hand side panel. It's an ECU looking box with a load of wires going in/out of it.

 

Why do you need to find this? what's stopped working? :?

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Why do you need to find this? what's stopped working?

 

Well Henny... Long shot this but i ithnk its his leccy windows that have stopped working!!! :lol::lol:

 

 

:lol:

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Well Henny... Long shot this but i ithnk its his leccy windows that have stopped working!!! :lol::lol:

 

Yeah, I'd guessed that much... :roll:

 

Which bit has broken though? Do they still go up/down with the driver's door open. Is one stuck, but the other not, etc etc etc...

 

It ain't always just as simple as works/doesn't work, you should know that by now... :? :roll:

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hey dubster82 where u on the happy pils at 3 this morning or should that be 4 :D

The problem being is the windows dont work at all just the little green light around the elec switch :cry:

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Henny---when u say--The control box for the electric windows is in the rear right hand side panel. It's an ECU looking box with a load of wires going in/out of it. Do u mean the panel where the back seats r??my car is a LHD

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OK, so the light works, but the switches don't do anything. This helps a lot! 8)

 

The switch lights are powered from the main windows brain (*NOT* Bill Gates! :roll: :lol: ) which is in the side panel on the right hand side of the car.

 

If the lights light up, then it means that the brain has power. Check these following bits out and see if they're all OK with your switch light. The switch should illuminate ONLY when the windows are powered and can be activated.

 

1: with the driver's door open and no ignition on the light should be on, when closed the light should go out...

2: with the ignition on the light should be on, door open or closed

3: after the ignition has been switched off and the driver's door hasn't been opened the light should be on until the door is opened and then closed after which it should go out.

4: at all other times, the light should be off as the windows should have no power.

 

If all of these are correct for your car, and you've checked both of the relevent fuses, then there are 3 likely suspects.

 

1: the brain is dead :?

2: the wiring from the brain to the windows has been disconnected or damaged :roll:

3: You've been REALLY unlucky and all 3 electric window switches, or both motors have died at around the same time... :? (very unlikely, but still possible....)

 

Personally I think that the multiplug that goes onto the brain which provides the power to both windows has come off or been disturbed...

 

Check the lists out above, and see what happens! 8)

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Henny---when u say--The control box for the electric windows is in the rear right hand side panel. It's an ECU looking box with a load of wires going in/out of it. Do u mean the panel where the back seats r??my car is a LHD

 

Yup, it's behind the side trim panel beside the rear seat. I didn't know if your car was LHD, or RHD, but as far as I know, the brain lives on the RH side behind the side trim on all Corrados.(it'd be a door panel if there was a door there, but I don't know what the correct name for the panel is on a 3 door car! :? )

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ok...boys another problem sorted ...it was the fuse that sits above the fuse box ...thanx again 4 another prob well soted...i will buy my cf stickers when im back in England in the summer ...top forum! keep up the good work! :D

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The windows are a nightmare. Mine rattle like hell when down, and the drivers side goes down at a funny angle with a nasty clunk! If they are not closed i hate shutting the door as it sounds like my Peugeot of old (sounds like the window is gonna fall out the door) Not a solid VW clunk!

:oops:

Is there an easy solution to this, i think its a common problem!

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dave0280 There's a rubber bung at the bottom of the runner that stops the rattle. This sometimes falls off and so the mechanism is free to wobble with the window down, hence the nasty rattle... :?

 

The window coming down at an angle could be one of a couple of things. The glass is held onto the winder mechanism by a U shaped long bit of metal that just grips a bit of rubber onto the bottom of the glass. This bit of metal then has 2 bolts to hold it onto the actual bit of the winder mechanism which goes up and down. The things that often go wrong with this are:

1) the grip stops gripping so the glass can 'slide' out of the grip slightly causing the glass to skew while going down... (possibly due to a replacement window at some stage?)

2) one of the bolts falls out... :roll:

3) the bolt/rivet in the bottom of the door that holds the mechanism in place has come out or is loose and so has damaged the top rivets causing the whole mechanism to skew when opening the window...

 

To cure the rattle, take the door card off, carefully peel the plastic membrane away from the door and have a look inside the door, shake the mechanism with your hand to find out where the rattle is from and carefully search around in the bottom of the door for the rubber bit. Refit this to the mechanism and you'll cure the rattle. You may also spot why the window is skewing while doing this...

 

To cure the skewing glass, when you've got the door card off, lower the window (slowly!) You'll see some holes through the metal inner of the door that will line up with the bolts just below the bottom of the glass. Make sure that there are 2 of them, and that they're tight.

Trace the mechanism down to the bottom of the door and see where it attaches to the bottom. If it's not attached, find out where it's supposed to be attached, and re-attach it! 8)

If it's not either of these, then lower the window a bit more until you can get at the metal window holder, lift the bottom end of the glass that seems to stay up more and see if you can see where it's loose on the holder. With the glass lifted out of the holder, squeeze the metal holder closed and then gently persuade the glass back into the holder. Hopefully this should make it's grip on the glass better and stop the window skewing... 8)

 

Hope this helps...

 

Good luck! 8)

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that problem with the glass in the window is a nightmare so I hear :(

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