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cope

Hello, G60 Probs. No power when accellerating.

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Hi there,

 

I am new to this forum, and recently bought a 1990 G60. I will try to explain my problem as best as i can so please bear with me if i dont know the terminology.

 

When i press on the gas, pretty hard to go fast the car basically has no power when i floor it in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd. The car hesitates and just doesnt want to go. The exhaust sounds funny when the car bogs down when accellerating. As long as i dont press too too hard on the gas, it seems to run fine, but as soon as i give it alot of gas, it just hangs ans sputters and then kicks in, but by that time, the RPM is pretty high.

 

The things that i have had replaced so far consists of this from the volks shop i go to ( not a dealer )

 

Replaced the throttle switch and body, as apparantly they couldnt get a reading from it when the switch was pressed. I am assuming it was a volt meter of some sort? (new one now gets a reading)

 

From what i was told, if the throttle switch is not working then the car doesnt know what amount of fuel and oxygen to mix???

 

Replaced the Oxygen sensor as the reading was that it was always running rich? Replaced it and still have the same problem.

Does anything need to be reset when a new O2 sensor is put in???

 

Timing is supposed to be ok.

 

Now i am being told that the Catalytic convertor may be damaged due to the throttle switch and O2 sensor running to rich???

 

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

It is costing me a fortune in parts and labor after having the car for not even 1 day.

 

Thx everyone!!!

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right....have you replaced ht leads, cap, dizzy, plugs (are you using correct plugs), air filter. checked for boost leaks, fuel filter, fuel pump?

 

then we can talk about complex stuff!!

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The things that i have had replaced so far consists of this from the volks shop i go to ( not a dealer )

 

Replaced the Oxygen sensor as the reading was that it was always running rich? Replaced it and still have the same problem.

Does anything need to be reset when a new O2 sensor is put in???

 

Timing is supposed to be ok.

 

hmmm, interesting! hello by the way :D

 

basically sounds like your timing to me mate cos hesitation and sputtering is the obvious signs! do you get the odd pop/backfire as well? when was the car last serviced and do you know much about the G60 seeing as you have only just got it?

 

if you don't know much then the people you could be dealing with might be taking you for a ride! :shock: they might not know a lot about the G60 either.... its something that happens quite a bit!

 

also its important to know for your own sake mostly but has the supercharger ever had a re-build and how many miles has the car done?

 

for the hesitation, check the distributor and the rotor arm are ok, nice and clean and that the rotor isnt shot (common Corrado problem as they are getting old) and you can also test the HT leads are working ok.

 

easiest way to test the HT leads is to pull off the HT lead at the spark plug end and unscrew the spark plug, put it into the HT lead while out of the engine block, get a mate to turn the engine over and see if you get a nice regular spark.... it should be tick, tick, tick from the spark nice and evenly, if not then either the plug or the lead is shot. do this one by one to make sure you dont get the leads mixed up. relace these if you suspect something is wrong when you perform this test and then see if you get any change in performance!

 

give this a go and see what the result is cos it may sort it, spluttering and hesitation is generally cos your timing is out ie too far in advance or retard so the engine isnt firing how it should be! :wink:

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Hiya! when I bought my G60 I had this exact problem. You can rev to redline without the gas pressed too far down, but can't press the gas to the floor without it bogging down, spluttering, hesitating and not wanting to go... :?

 

Your problem is that one of the vaccuum hoses has either come off, or has developed a leak.

 

In the scuttle panel (next to the windscreen wiper motor, just in front of the windscreen) you'll find your ECU. Attached to the ECU there should be a thin pipe which is EXACTLY 1m long. (it's important that it's exactly 1meter long! I don't know why, but it is! :? ) This pipe should go into the engine bay and attach to the back of the throttle body. It's this pipe that allows the ECU to know what your engine is doing throttle wise, so that it can adjust the timing to match. If it's missing, or damaged your fueling and timing will be a mile off and so you'll get problems while going for full throttle (or even just close to full!)...

 

That would be my first one to check, then just have a look at the rest of the vaccuum pipes to make sure they're all OK too...

 

The good thing is that vaccuum pipe is VERY cheap, and VERY easy to fit and should cure your problem once and for all when you find which one it is! 8)

 

Does anything need to be reset when a new O2 sensor is put in???

 

The G60 ECU has no memory, so there's no reset procedure for it. It'll just start running properly when you solve the problem! 8)

 

Good luck!

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To answer one question, it is back firing quite a bit actually in 1 pop spurts. I just though my exhaust system was like that. Hmmm soo gullable i am.

 

As for knowing anything about a Corrado, i must say i dont know much. I have learned alot in the last day but i am at the point of information overload hehe.

 

The guy i bought it from appeared to know a little bit but not much, but that could have been easily disguised. Either way he is paying me 1/3 of the cost for my current repairs so he isnt that bad of a guy. hehe.

 

As for timing, it is "supposed to be ok" as per the machanic but for all i know its not. I only wish i new how to check that stuff rather than taking someones word for it.

 

Spark plugs and cables are recent and i think they are Bosch, and look pretty new. As for the "dizzi cap" i am not sure. The guy said he just did it soooooo....... maybe he didnt hehe

 

Belts and hoses have been also replaced, and look like they are in good shape.

 

Supercharger, that is undetermined as the guy i bought it from doesnt know either. It has 173,000 KMs on the engine itself.

 

Has it been recently serviced.... well depending upon what that entails, i did the oil and bosch filter on it, pully bearings where howling so i had the two of them replaced.

 

"right....have you replaced ht leads, cap, dizzy, plugs (are you using correct plugs), air filter. checked for boost leaks, fuel filter, fuel pump? "

 

I have not personally replaced any of these yet. Dont know how to check for boost leaks.

What plugs does this car need?

 

What would be the next thing for me to do or look at as i am not sure what direction to go in.

 

Thx guys, i really really appreciate the info (:

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Hi Henny.. thats exactly what my car is doing.

 

Im not sure where you are trying to tell me where it is. Is the windscreen under the hood somewheres or in the actual dash?

 

Well the throttle body was replaced... how do i know if its already damaged?

 

I know there is some stuff right under the hood just below the wipers when the hood is open.... i have yet to really look around there.

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Hi Henny.. thats exactly what my car is doing.

 

I know there is some stuff right under the hood just below the wipers when the hood is open.... i have yet to really look around there

 

.

 

 

thats where Henny is meaning.....its basically the shelf between your engine bay and where the bottom of the windscreen is and should only be accesible with the hood/bonnet open

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cope - many garages are not aware of the correct proceedure for setting the timing on a G60.

 

While the engine is idling the blue temp sensor must be disconnected. Engine revs should be held at 2500rpm, while timing is set to approx 6 degrees BTDC. After timing has been set - re-connect blue temp sensor & go for a drive.

 

Can be a bit of trial & error getting the timing set correctly. 6 degrees is the factory setting but the ideal setting will depend on the type of fuel used etc.

 

also check the DIY section of http://www.snstuning.com

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Well the throttle body was replaced...

 

We have a suspect! 8) On the back of the throttle body there should be 2 small plastic pipes attached. One of these goes off to the ECU. If EITHER of these is not attached properly, then you'll get this problem as you'll have a vaccuum leak so the ECU won't know what it's supposed to be doing... :? 8)

 

Have a good look there and see if you can see where I mean.

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Hi again.

 

First off, thanks to all who have givin me some directions to go in.

 

I will start troubleshooting this stuff on monday at the garage now that i have some "very good" information to go on.

 

I will look tomorrow myself at some stuff and hopefully see something visually close to the throttle switch and body.

 

I will keep everyone posted with the soon to be good outcome (:

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Just a quick thought,

 

Make sure that the bolts holding the throttle body on are tight, if they're not, then this will also cause similar problems... :?

 

Good luck! 8)

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Can do Henny,

 

Ill check it in the morning, now wouldnt that be something if it wasnt screwed on tight.... but i will guess that it is because its doing the same thing with the new one. But i shall check it out.

 

Anyone of you guys in the Toronto area? haha hmmmm

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With reference to the ECU vacuum hose, it has to go on the right outlet on the throttle body. ETKA seems to show the ECU hose on the top outlet and the lower one going to the Carbon canister thingumajig.

 

That SNS idiots guide has some good info on it. You can prove the O2 probe by tapeing up the full throttle switch. The ECU then ingnores the probe. Don't run like this for long though!!!! If it rund OK you need to fiond out why. The probe may be OK as you have a new one but the wiring to it could have been damaged during fitment.

 

Like stevemac says, setting the timing correctly is important. Too retarded and it'll run with no guts. My feeling is vac pipe,( someone replaced the throttle body and connected it wrong) does it go OK if you use a small amout of throttle and let it run in each gear? If the Vac into the ECU is wrong or none then the ECU cannot output the right advance for the engine speed/load.

 

Gavin

 

Kompressor Kanada is near you I think, in Canada at least.

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You know you guys could open a G60 repairs garage and between you you'll probably know more than a lot of these "specialist" garages out there!!

 

As mentioned, first thing to check os the vac line to the ecu: It should come off the back of the throttle body (the upper outlet on the passenger side if you are Left hand drive) and should have no splits etc in it all the way to the ecu.

 

Plugs should be Bosch W6DPO

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Maybe a good idea to get a boost guage on there one that shows vac and boost this should indicate stright away if you have any leaks now and in the future. There are a few threads on on the forum as to what people recommend. Also your mechanic may have one to test its fairly simple to hook up.

 

HTH

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Well,

 

I looked around a little bit where you guys told me to look by the throttle body in the rear of it.

 

I have one wire with black coating, almost like a mesh type wire. Right beside it is a plug with a hole, quite small, and when i put my finger over it, it is sucking air in.

If you are looking towards the engine, right in behind the throttle switch and about 1-2 inches below it thats where nothing is connected.Should there be something connected to it?

 

Now i have a wire that is not connected to anything, it is black and mesh like just like the one connected to the throttle body in the back of it. I am wondering if its supposed to connect to it. There is no connector on it, looks like it was cut off.

 

There is also a metal type of hose that is connecting to the throttle body on the front right hand side of it, it appears to be damaged a little bit as there is a slight lip whereas it should be completely round.

 

Wonder if thats my problem..... we shall see tomorrow.

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Connect the loose "wire" (it's actually a thin pipe!) to the plug which is sucking air in and watch what happens to how your car runs! (don't do it while the car is running though! :roll: :lol: )

 

They're exactly the pipes I was on about.. The sucking part should be sucking down a pipe from the ECU to tell the ECU how the engine is running and what fueling and timing the engine needs... 8)

 

Hope you can sort it tomorrow now... 8)

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I wish i could plug it in,

 

the cable has been cut on the end. Maybe they couldnt take it off and decided to snip it when they were replacing the throttle body.

 

I will make sure they take care of it tomorrow.

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yo, i had a similiar prob on another car (RS Turbo) not a g60 and i cured it by using a new throttle cable may be worth doing.......?

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Woohooooooooo!!!!!

 

That fixed the problem.. i have power now! (:

 

All i did was plug that black wire to the one that was pulling air in and she "GOES" quite fast to my liking.

 

I am still getting the odd backfire though.

 

Any ideas?

 

I want to thank all of you for helping me out... "especially" Henny for pointing out that to me.

 

I am so glad i came here, you guys are the best!

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The occasional backfire isn't uncommon, it probably means that you need to get the timing set up spot on now that the ECU knows if it's coming or going... 8)

 

Stevemac put a post in this thread earlier about the correct way of timing up a G60 engine... Make sure that gets done and you should be grinning in a big way! :D

 

I'm happy that it got sorted for ya, and that you're lovin' the G60 as you should be! (rapid ain't they?!? :lol: 8) )

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In regards to Stevemacs post.....

 

Is the tming something that i can do myself?

 

I am being told that there is a special tool that is needed to do it.

 

Now im not sure what 6 degrees BTDC means. Any thoughs hehe.

 

If i can do it myself ill give it a go. No more damn mechanics that forget to plug in a cables!!

 

Please advise.

 

Cope. Me never!

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6 degrees Before Top Dead Centre = 6 degrees before the piston in cylinder no.1 reaches the top of its travel. If using Optimax (higher octane rating) you may be able to set to 7 degrees for more power.

 

Timing marks are on the flywheel but you'll need a strobe light to get the measurement.

 

Must unplug the Blue temp sensor to disable the ECU corrective timing system

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Howdy,

 

Thx for the info SteveMac.

 

The car is in the garage right now, i am leaking gear oil and will be putting in a new clutch as its stuttering when im letting go of the clutch, so i think there is oil there.

 

Thx again for the info, ill get them to check the timing at the same time.

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