How to strip a PAS rack?

[Rpmayne 0]

Sorry to resurrect an old post but did anyone figure out how to tighten the UV joint up to stop the up/down wobble between the pin and teeth? More importantly has anyone been pulled up for it on the MOT? VW reconed it was the top bearing and failed it, which it isn't as the cowling moves aswell. I'm not after any handling improvements etc, just so it passes the MOT.

[boost monkey 0]

Have you check the bolts which hold the steering colum to the actual chassis?

 

I think there are 4 of them.

[poll250 0]

They failed me for it last year.

 

I just put the height setting to the position with least movement and then removed the height adjuster, so they couldnt check the others! Passed ok with that bodge.

 

Try tightening the bolts mentioned above, as it removed all the side to side play on my wheel, leaving just a bit of up and down!

[boost monkey 0]

afaik, the bolts I mentioned aren't threadlocked or anything and must surely work themselves loose over time.

[boost monkey 0]

btw,

 

I got my box of "PAS Seals" today (VAG Part# 1H0498020) and it definitely has some replacement seals for internals so I'm gonna crack this rack open a bit more.

 

Yeah, it's probably overkill (the seals are around £25 before discount) but it's all good learning experience.

[Rpmayne 0]

Cheers, will check those bolts and try the fix you suggested. Sod replacing it, bodge sounds good to me.

[boost monkey 0]

Am actually gonna get round to stripping this mother down even further soon, just trying to sort out some other bits and pieces!

[boost monkey 0]

So, it's been a while since I updated this, here is how the PAS rack stands as of earlier today:

 

rack.JPG[/attachment:2re7p7f1]

 

Top to bottom and left to right:

 

Bar between rubber gaitors,

Rack with both external pipes connected,

track rod with end - NS,

track rod with end - OS,

Gaitor OS,

Gaitor NS,

Nuts to attach rack to subframe,

Bolts to attach rack to subframe,

Rubber bush,

Rubber bush mount,

Box with top rubber seal on (fits onto ribber U/J cover?)

Tube of Steering rack grease for lubing up the rack arms with.

 

Will be painting the rack tomorrow, hopefully rebuilding it on Sunday. Need to threadlock the tie rods onto the rack and tighten to spec, remove rod ends and slip gaitors on the rods, then re-attach the rod ends after copper greasing them. Attach rubber bush and top rubber seal, and then leave to stand until subframe is ready, Gas Mark 4 :lol:

 

After this is all done I will be sorting out the piping and late-spec reservoir and bracket (cylinder reservoir sits up next to washer bottle as opposed to my square one which sits next to battery) :thumb right:

[Supercharged 2]

Did you actually get seals for the rack itself then or is it ok??

 

Those track rods don't look quite right - should be 6 sided so you can get to them in situ but for putting onto the rack off the car should be fine...

 

You'll need clips for the gaiters and make sure you manually prime the pump (turn by hand with belt off) when you refill...

[boost monkey 0]

Did you actually get seals for the rack itself then or is it ok??

 

Yeah the rack doesn't leak, plus you need specialist tools to replace the actual rack inners and this rack has only done 70k so it'll be fine.

 

Those track rods don't look quite right - should be 6 sided so you can get to them in situ but for putting onto the rack off the car should be fine...

 

The arms do have a hex cross section half-way down their length, picture is quite poor due to being from a Nokia and not a Nikon!

 

You'll need clips for the gaiters and make sure you manually prime the pump (turn by hand with belt off) when you refill...

 

Yeah, forgot to include the clips in the pic, and will remember about the manual prime when I do it, cheers!

 

Also forgot to include a picture of the funny little whiteclip on the back of the bracket built into the rack (where the rod change bit would bolt to on a mk2 setup). Not sure what it does but bought a new one anyways!

[boost monkey 0]

if the rack is actually leaking fluid then new seals are obviously a good idea, otherwise I'd leave it alone, if the rack is slightly worn, especially in the straight ahead position, then it'll always feel a bit vague, (not that they ever seem to wear excessively) they usually get like this after 100K or so, only real cure is a brand new rack or a low mileage one, re-con racks are basically what you're trying to do, an old one checked for excessive wear and then new seals fitted, OK for an old hack but not what you'd ideally want on a Corrado.

 

Remembered the rack is off a 70k Corrado, so will probably be good for another 3-5 years (until it's reaching the 100k mark)