Engine and gearbox oils

[skinnyman9000 0]

I've done a search and found an answer to the gearbox oil, but not the engine oil, just alot of random threads about smokey valvers etc.

 

I've chosen the Redline MT90 gearbox oil, as its probably the best stuff available. This will be combined with a cleaning of the mechanism (WD40) and a lube up to help with gear crunch. Its a little notchy when cold, so i've been advised to give the mechanism a once over and to change the oil.

 

But now its time for the engine oil. The car has done 125k, but it had a full engine rebuild around 6k ago, so i want an oil that is going to protect the engine as much as possible. The problem is that when the oil pump died the AA took it to my local agarge, who filled it up far too much (oil in the air intake) and i was only charged £6 for replacement oil, so i have a feeling i just got a bucket of random oil put into it. So will i be ok just emptying the system and refilling it, or should i flush it with some cheapo asda oil first?

 

Any help appreciated.

[davidwort 0]

just get a good brand mineral oil or semi-synthetic 10/40

quantum silver is ideal as it's basically what VW specified and dealers sell.

I've found the FUCHS 10/40 semi from GSF to be just as good on my valver.

Halfords own 10/40 semi would be fine, it's just usually more expensive than the above.

The machining tolerances and components like the tappets won't thank you for going to a lighter oil like a lot of more modern engines have and you'll just burn it off quicker.

[Neil VR6 0]

I had mine changed with Synta Silver yesterday although we put a tin of Wurth oil treatment in the old oil prior to draining it out and left it to idle for 10 mins or so. I was pretty shocked by the new price of Synta Silver though. £45 for however much a VR takes :shock: For that price I reckon oilman could sell you some full ether synthetic.

[skinnyman9000 0]

I dont spare any expense when it comes to the mechanical health of the car, so i'll happily pay for the very best oils available

[skinnyman9000 0]

Is fully synthetic what i should be looking for then?

[davidwort 0]

on a 16v I'd fill it with Synta Silver or any other branded 10/40 Semi synthetic and change it every 6000 or so, I've run a 16v for 12 years now on mainly synta silver (or whatever similar I could get for a reasonable price) and hot/cold weather, starting and full belt running it's been fine, tappets relatively quiet and I've done a lot of miles.

 

You'll always get a wide range of recommendations for oil, but personally for a daily driver 16v, I think fully synthetic is a waste of money and if it's too light you'll burn more and the head will sound noisier, you could easily spend the best part of 100 quid a year on oil if you used something like Mobil 1, and 16v's always burn some oil too.

 

There's no doubt that a top quality fully synthetic will keep protecting the engine under more extreme running conditions and extended oil change intervals but I doubt you stress your engine or do the miles where you'd get any kind of payback on engine wear. Turbo car, regular track days then possibly it's that bit of extra protection.

[Jim Bowen 1]

i use golden syrup now after seeing the modern skodas now run this stuff, takes a while to pour in and you need alot of tins, but the smell after a quick blat is amazing.

 

i do however get a lot of bees & wasps following me during the warmer months

[davidwort 0]

always wondered what was in the Synta Gold bottles

[Dec 1]

i use golden syrup now after seeing the modern skodas now run this stuff, takes a while to pour in and you need alot of tins, but the smell after a quick blat is amazing.

 

i do however get a lot of bees & wasps following me during the warmer months

 

:lol: :lol: