VR6 Weak spark

[TimothyClaypole 0]

My project has been taxed and tested and after sorting a few issues my dad's been joyriding it about "testing" he calls it. :lol:

 

I went out for a run the other Saturday and it was ok for a but but then lost power and stopped. It restarted first time and I continued until I could turn around to head home, it cut out again a few miles later and took ages to restart.

 

Did about another mile then it cut out and wouldn't restart at all. Towed it home with my dad's polo which was entertaining but thankfully only a few miles on quiet roads.

 

Decided to treat it to a new battery as didn't trust the old one but it refused to start even then.

 

Not done anything with it since due to working but had a look today, tried a spare lead and plug and it turns over but the spark is very very weak.

 

Before I throw anymore money at it guessing, can anyone think of what it might be causing it?

 

It was running ok before apart from being a bit "lumpy", ran like stink despite it though.

[Reggit 0]

Is it a dissy or coilpack ignition?

[TimothyClaypole 0]

There's a black plastic bit/block with the plug leads stuck in it at the right of the block, assumed that was a "coil pack" ?

 

(It's an L reg).

[Toad 0]

Is it square??? if so, it is... Whip it off and clean it up, spray plenty of wd over it, it might be cracked or arcing.

 

Clean the terminals up, and take the plastic cover off the top, there's a couple of terminals under it, that can corrode.

[mr_fusion 0]

I would recommend some "Blue Igniter" HT leads while you are at it.. slightly more expensive than OEM but much better and long lasting.

 

Then can be had from C&R Enterprises at - http://www.candrenterprises.co.uk/

 

£77.50 + p&p for coilpack version.

 

They can also make up extra custom leads for you if you do damage one. which is nice.

 

ps. also check for arcing from the plug ends of the current leads against the head. If you start the car in the dark and look down the spark plug holes you will see them arcing if they are breaking down. If this is bad you will misfire on that cylinder.

[Critical_Mass 10]

I would recommend some "Blue Igniter" HT leads while you are at it.. slightly more expensive than OEM but much better and long lasting.

 

Then can be had from C&R Enterprises at - http://www.candrenterprises.co.uk/

 

£77.50 + p&p for coilpack version.

 

They can also make up extra custom leads for you if you do damage one. which is nice.

 

ps. also check for arcing from the plug ends of the current leads against the head. If you start the car in the dark and look down the spark plug holes you will see them arcing if they are breaking down. If this is bad you will misfire on that cylinder.

 

How do you cure that other the get new leads. Had the new VR lump since Jan and have noticed it arcing and thats with new leads. It also did it on the old lump and with the older leads?

[mr_fusion 0]

where is it arcing specifically? I have a dizzy so don't suffer the oe coilpack weaknesses others have (just have my own set of mechanical "wear items" such as the dizzy cap and rotor etc)

 

I have found that arcing in the past has been due to knicks in the plug boots or the cables themselves. Arcing coilpack end would be the standard cracked coilpack scenario (so many others have experienced)

 

If you don't have the proper plug lead removal tool I know from experience that its harder to seat the leads on the plugs (there should be a definate "clunk" as they push down on the plugs and are making a sound electrical connection)

 

Otherwise it should be a closed electrical feed with no potential for arcing... unless maybe a moisture issue?

[Critical_Mass 10]

where is it arcing specifically? I have a dizzy so don't suffer the oe coilpack weaknesses others have (just have my own set of mechanical "wear items" such as the dizzy cap and rotor etc)

 

I have found that arcing in the past has been due to knicks in the plug boots or the cables themselves. Arcing coilpack end would be the standard cracked coilpack scenario (so many others have experienced)

 

If you don't have the proper plug lead removal tool I know from experience that its harder to seat the leads on the plugs (there should be a definate "clunk" as they push down on the plugs and are making a sound electrical connection)

 

Otherwise it should be a closed electrical feed with no potential for arcing... unless maybe a moisture issue?

 

lo mate,

 

The coilpack seems fine in regards to arcing. But to be more specific its actually in the sparkplug/spark lead 'holes' its arcing. There is metal cap on the end of each lead, like most if not all. Ive tried insulation tape to stop it but it does work brilliantly. I do have the removal tool, but the leads that i have fitted dont allow the tool to fit properly e.g. the diameter of the lead cap is too big.

[Toad 0]

Have you change the plugs at all? Where did you get the leads from. Doesn't sound too good if they're still arcing accross. Try spraying a bit of wd40 onto and into the plug leads.

[Critical_Mass 10]

Hi Toad,

 

The plugs are bosch plugs, would that be a factor? The leads are ones the the garage, where the engine was fitted. But i have tried different ones and still got the same result. Though it only appears to be maybe one or 2 of the leads that are arcing not all of them. I may try some VW leads but dont want to fork out the ammount that are wanted for them, any others recommended?

[turbomagikz 0]

hello matey . how strange is this . ive had same problem with my vr6 .

and ive just tonight fitted brand new kt racing 10mm leads.

took car out and ooooh felt very nice then lost power and back again (as before arkin out).

pitch black so look down plug holes and yes 3 are producing arcs deep in hole ??????????????

just spent £70 on these 4 core leads so?

 

im stummped must be my plugs ?

if u find out matey let me know thanks mark :salute:

[TimothyClaypole 0]

My mobile mechanic (dad) :wink: had a mess about with it yesterday and sprayed the starter motor lead with wd40 - started first time, so looks like a dodgy connection there causing it?

 

I did notice the arcing on a previous VR6 I had and it seems a common thing? Could you not have the metal part of the leads coated somehow to stop it, assuming it's a problem?