PiercedWinky 0 Posted July 24, 2008 I wasn't quite sure where this fit, but I am trying to see if anyone has mounted a set of these. here is a pic to give you an idea. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted July 24, 2008 I've not seen or heard of anyone doing this as an upgrade i'm afraid - I guess the advantage is the tandem master cyls? A few of us have been looking at the 4 pot dynalite or powerlite calipers tho to use with stock 280mm discs as a cheap upgrade... What sort of price are the calipers across the pond? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PiercedWinky 0 Posted July 24, 2008 its more to help clean up my bay. It would be a way to get rid of the brake booster and get a bit more presure on the calipers. Dynalites are 130 USD over here per caliper If anyone has some designs for a bracket to fit the VR6 plus suspension they want to share, I wouldnt mind that ;-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted July 25, 2008 Have a word with Mr Schimmel. He fitted some similar pedals (Tilton) to that rear engined 24V turbo. Went to a trade show in January and had a look at AP Racing's full inventory. Their pedal set is absolutely sublime! So smooth to operate, seriously well made, but will cost you some wedge. If you go with a large enough master cylinder, you won't need a brake booster. Would take much to fit those. I would also have an incar adjustable rear brake bias valve too and get rid of that peice of schitt thing hanging off the rear axle! Or do you not have that on US Rados? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PiercedWinky 0 Posted July 25, 2008 Since this set has a dual master on the brakes I shouldn't need the booster either. It has a balance bar built into it but I would probably set it close to even pressure and then use the proportioning valve on the rear beam still. (yes they were on US cars until about 96 when they moved to TEVAS 20 ABS units that controlled the proportioning.) The reason for it is if the rear suspension is on full down travel it should only allow for minimal rear braking. Since I would be driving the car on the street and not the track for the most part if I get into an emergency braking situation I would like the car to respond as close to stock as possible. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites