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timing question?

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i have tried useing the search but i cant find any info about where abouts the zero on the flywheel if in reference to the strobe mark, i have located the strobe mark but cant frikin find the zero, have been out there for hours :brickwall: any help would be greatly Appreciated.

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thanks.

had a good look and tried cleaning the rust and dirt away but still cant see it,

its a shame that you cant see the geer teeth in the diagram because than you could just rotate it the number of teeth from the strobe mark. will it be alright if its somewhere neer? iv got it set as to the digram.

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you can always test for TDC with a wooden dowel or long screwdriver or something ow the no.1 spark plug hole.

 

if you look at my pic here: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=37235&hilit=timing+marks

 

you can see the timing mark (6 deg advance) and the white marked timing reference point on the gearbox casing, the TDC mark is just out of view IIRC probably about 4 or five teeth to the right

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right all back together now. pully wheel set to the mark, cam wheel set to the mark and distributer set to the mark.

turned it over and it ran for a couple of seconds and then died and the only way i can get it to run is buy twisting the distributer clockwise quite a bit but the revs run at about 2500 rpm. not sure what else i can do? :brickwall:

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Ok - are you using an advance light at 6 degrees and also using the 6 degree mark on the flywheel??

 

If so you are setting it to either 0 or 12 degrees BTDC!

 

Also check the intercam timing if there is any reason to suspect it's out and that the chain is not slack, then check the crank bolt and keyway!

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I couldn't see the zero on the flywheel so i used the mark on the crank pulley and counted 4 teeth back from the timing mark just to be sure. i don't have a timing light so i just tried to use all the marks.

 

When i changed the cam i made sure that the zero marks on the cams lined up whilst all the timing marks where in place.

 

Is there any settings to change the mixture or idle etc or any other adjustments?

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Yes the little brass screw on the throttle body will adjust the idle speed.

 

to adjust the mixture you need a long 3mm allen key as the bolt is recessed inside the fuel metering head, but you shouldn't need to tamper with that.

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ok will try adjusting the idle screw whilst turning the distributer cap to see if i can get it to idle and run smooth, thanks.

reason for all of this is i have changed the inlet cam for a kr one and changed the inlet manifold for a 50mm, should the ecu adjust for the changes or does it need professionally tuning?

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no, no, don't start fiddling with CO and idle bleeds until you're sure you've got all the mechanical timing settings right and the ignition timing right. It should run fine with nothing changed other than the cams providing everything is pout back where it should be.

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you said you aligned it by using the crank pulley mark and them moving it a few teeth around on the flywheel, are you sure you moved it the right way?

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i found the strobe mark and wound the gear teeth towards me buy 4 teeth marking them in white but couldn't see the zero mark :scratch:

 

2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfPicture 069.jpg[/attachment:uxsgpry3]

 

at this point the cam wheel was slightly out but in between teeth so i thought id keep turning to see if i could see the zero at one tooth advanced but still no joy so i don't know if it will make a difference if i move it?

 

climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfPicture 070.jpg[/attachment:uxsgpry3]

 

to get it to run i have to turn the distributer in the direction shown almost as far as it will go but it idles at about 2000/2500rpm and stutters a bit :confused4:

 

Picture 065.2.JPG[/attachment:uxsgpry3]

 

might try the chopstick method, being a noob an all could i ask which cylinder is cylinder no1.?

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hang on, that cam pulley pic shows the pulley mark past TDC not before, are you going the wrong way?

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Copy of flywheel_timing.gif[/attachment:14t35g07]

 

thats the direction shown that the zero should be from the strobe mark in the diagram.

 

the timing has been previously set to the strobe mark it looks like.

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now I'm getting confused!

for engine timing, everything should align to the TDC marks,

- intercam 'O' marks face each other (can only see with cam cover off)

- exhaust cam timing belt pulley marks, inner one lies flat level with top of head, outer one with arrow/triangle on cam cover arch

- bottom timing belt/crank pulley mark shold align with plastic timing cover arrow

distributor rotor arm align with mark on distributor body

mark 'O' with arrow 'v' casting on bell housing

 

your cambelt pulley marks, when aligned, should mean your flywheel mark aligns, unless the top or bottom pulley has sheared it's keyway.

 

thinking about it again, perhaps there's been a confusion with the 'timing' mark on the flywheel and all the other marks that are TDC.

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right, the timing was previously set to the strobe mark on the fly wheel so when i rotated the fly wheel to where the zero mark should be it was past TDC on the cam wheel as show in previous post. i adjusted it this morning so now it is set BTDC by one tooth on the cam wheel and i checked the timing mark with a strobe and that is in the right place as well as the distributer cap mark lining up with the rotor arm but it is still running rough :confused4:

 

it now looks like this:

2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfPicture 142.jpg[/attachment:9rlfzpik]

Picture 143.jpg[/attachment:9rlfzpik]

 

i went round and checked all the air feed pipes and its all good, checked the connections to the throttle and ISV (ISV is buzzing when ignition turned on). i had to adjust the idle screw to get it to idle properly.

 

the symptoms are a big lag gap between putting your foot on the accelerator and the revs picking up aswell as misfiring.

sorry if im confusing, im just trying to do it by the book and its not working :( help still needed.

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think id have the belt off and start again

 

if you cant find the fltwheel marks use the bottom pulley and get that lined up then check to see if you can see the flywheel mark

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think id have the belt off and start again

 

if you cant find the fltwheel marks use the bottom pulley and get that lined up then check to see if you can see the flywheel mark

 

think i might do mate,

do you have to unplug the wires from the coil or disconnect the battery or something so the ECU doesn't try and reset the timing? (or something like that)

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I think there's a black/red wire on the coil that you can disconnect so the ECU doesn't interfere with setting the base timing at idle, but TBH if the engine is warm it doesn't seem to make any difference for me.

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Right, just forget everything you have done up until know.

 

Set the camshaft up to TDC by aligning the marks.

 

Look at the dizzy, the rotar arm will sit roughly over the notch in the dizzy casing, indicating No. 1 at TDC, if not adjust it.

 

Flywheel, you really need to find the 0 deg point, it will only be around 4 gear teeth away from the 6 deg mark, so get looking in both directions. If there is no other mark on the flywheel then the mark you can find is the 0 deg one. The reason is that new flywheels only come with a 0 deg mark and not a 6 deg one (garages are required to do this) The 6 deg BTDC is 14.5mm to the left of the 0 deg mark, please also note that the 0 deg mark can be just a line with the 0 hiding above it under the gearbox casing. If you look at the picture attached you can see just how far down the camera is and the angle required to see the 0.

 

Now set the flywheel to 0 deg, this is far more accurate than using the crankshaft pulley as it is a larger diameter wheel with more exact markings making it easier to set.

 

You will need to get a timing light from somewhere; if the flywheel is accurate because small movements mean only a small amount of change in timing the dizzy is opposite, a small movement due to the smaller diameter have a larger effect on timing. You will need to set the timing to 6 deg BTDC with the engine idleing at approx 1000 rpm (standard idle for 16v).

 

Hope that clears everything up and good luck finding the mark.

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thanks yan :)

 

that mark did have the zero at the top, found it after much polishing :nuts: so i re-adjusted the cam pulley mark but no sign of the strobe mark so i marked near enough where it should be and adjusted the distributer cap using a strobe and it seems to run fairly good.

after re-adjusting the timing it seemed to run at about 2000RPM but gradually worked its way down to about 1200RPM as the engine warmed up, so was rather difficult to strobe.

 

there seems to be a whuring noise coming from either one of the pulley wheels or the tensioner (replacement tensioner from gfs). is it true you should be able to turn the cam belt through 45 deg between the cam pulley and the aux/idle pulley to check the tension is correct?

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there seems to be a whuring noise coming from either one of the pulley wheels or the tensioner (replacement tensioner from gfs)

 

Don't use pattern parts on yer engine mate :shock:

 

Should be (no more than) 90 degrees at mid point along the longest belt run

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sorry meant 90 degrees :bonk:

yea, starting to regret not using genuine VAG parts already, think i will replace them just to be on the safe side.

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see if someone local has a timing light with advance control

 

you can dial in 6 degs (or whatever you fancy) and use the tdc marks to time it

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