is this normal

[dutchboy 0]

recently fitted fk my coilover struts.

 

Is it normal for the orignal top plates to be sticking up so far? My old suspension never use to. They also turn a little with the steering.

 

Surely not right. Overtightened?

 

[boost monkey 0]

You mean because the plate is squashed against the mount, or the plate is sitting high?

 

all of my VWs have plates that sit like that, pretty sure it's normal.

[Critical_Mass 10]

Yes, as Boost said, its normal! ^^

[Toad 0]

It is normal for them to turn. Can't quite work out how far they are sat away from the top of the tower, but your top mounts *could* be worn. Did you fit new ones when you fitted the suspension?

 

I wouldn't worry overly, you'll probably find out if they are unacceptable at your next MOT... Worth noting that lowered/stiffer suspension does wear topmounts quicker than the original stuff.

[coolrado 0]

It is normal for there to be a gap but not too much, a rough check is the rule of thumb, if you can fit your finger in the gap it's ok but if you can fit your thumb in the gap the topmount is worn out,

 

the picture above does look a bit high though and it does look like the rubber has started to seperate from the metal on the right hand side of the picture, it's also normal for the top plate to turn with the steering, you need to worry if they dont turn as it usually means the bearing has seized and can lead to snapped springs.

[dutchboy 0]

well i can definately get my thumb inbetween. They are new top mounts. Weird eh? They are the old style ones which are apparently correct for my car (1993 16v). Could I use the VR6 ones?

 

The weird nuts which are round that have two slots in the top that hold the mounts on? Do they need to be completely tightend down?

[coolrado 0]

yes the slotted nut should be tightened all the way down, this clamps the lower part of the bearing.

[dutchboy 0]

what do i use to tighten it. Cant get a proper grip on it.

 

Still cant understand why they stick up to much!!!

[dutchboy 0]

Also, how can I torque the top nuts because i have to hold the spindle with an allen key so how do i get a torque wrench on there?

[coolrado 0]

you can get a special tool to fit them, but I wouldnt worry too much about torqueing them down as long as they are tight, but you could use the tool on the slotted nut and use the torque wrench on the allen key in the opposite direction.

 

are they new genuine top mounts or patern part ones?

[Yandards 0]

you can get a special tool to fit them, but I wouldnt worry too much about torqueing them down as long as they are tight, but you could use the tool on the slotted nut and use the torque wrench on the allen key in the opposite direction.

 

are they new genuine top mounts or patern part ones?

 

You need to be careful doing this type of topmount arrangement up, it is too easy to get the bottom of the top cap (inside bonnet one pictured) to bit into the slotted nut and undo the whole set-up causing crashing over potholes and a bent spring cap.

 

Halfords do a large vortex drivekit these days, hollow through the middle so I would recommend getting one of those.

[Supercharged 2]

Or a lambda probe tool and brake allen key if it's 22m, if it's 21mm then just use a 14mm spark plug socket

[Critical_Mass 10]

or a deep set spanner.

[dutchboy 0]

do you think i should try them with VR6 mounts I have? I cant see what difference they would make really but it's worth a shot.

[Toad 0]

I wound my castle nuts down until they were tight then nipped them up with a hammer and punch. Dunno if that is really a reccomended method though...

[colinstubbs 0]

Deep socket in molegrips with an alllen key down the middle, get a mate to help!

[colinstubbs 0]

Deep socket in molegrips with an alllen key down the middle, get a mate to help!

[The Hub 0]

I got a VW/Audi strut top removal tool from my local tool shop, smaller tool shops won't stock them. Only cost me £5.

Halfrauds can order them in for you too, but they were looking for £12.95.