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MonkeyVR6

Neuspeed Power Pulley Kit VR6

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The racing guys go for reduction in spinning mass as it allows the engine to be accelerated to higher speeds more readily. Those guys look for every little edge that can be gained - but for a road car it's negligible.

Only reduction in reciprocating mass will contribute to bhp increase, as flinging pistons, rods, crank throws back and forth is a significant contributor to the engine's internal losses.

But the real gain in reciprocating mass reduction is in allowing the engine to safely rev at speeds where the extra bhp are to be had. [btw above about 4500 rpm inertia loads on piston, rods and crank are higher than power stroke loads]

In practice you can improve acceleration far more by reducing car mass - clear your boot and jettison all un-necessary stuff, keep your fuel tank only part full, etc.

There is 1 important reason why you shouldn't go for a lighter crank pulley [if yours is a daily runner with prefered long life expectancy] and that is because VW [along with most engine designers] designed the cast pulley [also flywheel] to damp out torsional vibration in the crank.

The choice [and risk!] is yours. :shrug:

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They also redesign the size of the pullies to take less power from the engine, Same as turning off your creature comforts leaves you with more BHP through your wheels, I have noticed no adverse affects from mine and only good things. Battery stays topped up nicely, power steering remains unchanged...etc

Admittedly I fitted mine at the same time as my cams but mine is now a free revving animal compared to what it used to be,

As far as damping out vibrations from the crank, the only pully that would affect is the crank pully and it's only a couple of kg lighter, loads of people run flywheels that are massively lighter then that, I'd say get 'em but I'm biased :)

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Agreed, pulley ratios can be adjusted to reduce power take-off and hence reduce effective internal losses, but if your battery needs so many kw.hrs to top itself up then the alternator control will take those kw.hrs regardless. If you keep yr battery topped up in the garage with an intelligent trickle charger [eg. an "Airflow"], batterydrain/charging isn't much of an issue, unless you do a lot of driving in the dark. 8)

Re power steering drive, unless you're continually in town traffic, using lots of lock, it could be worth increasing the pas pulley dia. But is it worth it? The loud pedal is used mostly when pointing, near-enough, straight-ahead - unless you burn rubber for its own sake and grind up CV joints for fun. :cuckoo:

Re water pump drive. Given the VR's weakness in the block cooling department, do you really want to risk reducing the speed of drive to the primary cooling kit? :mad2:

Yes - only the crank pulley and flywheel absorb torsional vibrations.

As for revving freely - how do you measure this? IMHO it's how the engine runs when driving the car that counts - for all throttle conditions that is.

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