flushing and bleeding brakes/clutch - new problems :(

[mikehiow 0]

Is there a guide on how to do this somewhere?

 

I've bled brakes before, using the old tiresome method, but I've no idea how to go about it all when the clutch is thrown into the equation.

[davidwort 0]

same as brakes, just do slave cylinder bleed point first as it's furthest away from master. No special tricks but it's as well to do now and then to keep the fluid fresh.

[Supercharged 2]

If its got ABS then you should pressure bleed only - either buy an eezibleed kit or take it to your local VAG dealer.

[gogsboy 0]

Are that bleed kits easy to use, for the novice, how much fluid do you need for the likes of the VR6.

 

Is the idea to remove all fluid and replace with fresh completly.

 

If you have excesss travel in your pedal is this normally a sign the brakes would need bled?

[davidwort 0]

an easy-bleed bottle that attaches to a tyre valve is easy to use and gets great results, I wish I'd bought one years ago, and it makes it a one man job, as opposed to one man and wife which she always moaned about :lol:

 

don't ever remove all the fluid, you risk air problems which are a major headache in an ABS system.

remove what you can from the reservoir first, add some fresh to the reservoir, then do one wheel at a time topping up the easy-bleed bottle as you go. A litre should be enough, but if you're doing a complete change and flushing through well, then a couple will be needed.

[mikehiow 0]

Right, since my previous clutch not engaging problems (when cold), I've now flushed and replaced my fluid with 5.1 which seemed to resolve it, the clutch was fine when cold, however - last night when driving, I found after hooning the car through the gears it would start deteriorating, and wouldn't return all the way to the top. At one point it decided to stick to the floor, after stopping for a few minutes however, it slowly returned, and all was well again.

 

I don't see how any air has got in, it was flushed via a pipe submerged in fluid (a poor mans easy bleed, basically), is it possible it requires bleeding again, or is something else at play here? The old fluid showed no signs of air at all.

[dirtytorque 0]

clutch slave or master cylinder could be failing maybe.

[Supercharged 2]

Deffo a hydraulic leak, often hard to spot if it's the slave as it leaks internally to the gearbox bell housing...

 

I wouldn't drive it until fixed now - if it's this bad you can damage the clutch fork or the gearbox itself

 

I would change the slave anyway as a matter of course - especially if it doesn't look new (alloy unpainted part)

[Supercharged 2]

Edit - as I thought, advice on this already given in this thread...

 

viewtopic.php?f=23&t=77137&p=896083#p896083

 

Please do not cross post and start new topics about an existing issue - I makes it difficult to see what's already been tried / suggested and the general history of the car / issue!

[mikehiow 0]

I'd totally forgotten about that thread, to be honest.

 

The Slave Cylinder is unpainted, so I believe it's been changed at some point, and surely, if it was leaking internally, the clutch would be slipping like hell?

 

Seems to be pointing at the master cylinder at the moment? Where is this located, and how difficult is it to change?

[dirtytorque 0]

I experienced no clutch slip with my faulty slave cylinder,just an annoying and dangerous non returning clutch pedal.

[mikehiow 0]

Being that that Slave looks like it's been changed, and the master is expensive, I think I'll give some known working second hand ones a try.

 

But I really need some info on changing the master :|