HARD Steering

[tobe_k 0]

Hi,

 

I own a Corrado VR6, although it was formerly a 1.8 16v. Think its still running the original sterring rack, which i assume is the same on the VR and the Valvers. Anyway, Its really hard, especially when first starting in the mornings, you really have to hang on the steering wheel and do a few lock to locks before it losens off, It really stiffens up when going into corners aswell.

 

Any ideas? Pump, rack, track rods? Im pretty sure i have a knackered NSF wheel bearing aswell as its getting pretty noisy which could be affecting it, but not as much as it does. I havent stripped it apart yet as ive been too busy so looking for some ideas first before i do and if anyone else has ever experience this...

 

Cheers, Tobe.

[Yandards 0]

Sounds like a belt to me, although the VR rack is geared differently to the 4 cylinder cars.

[boost monkey 0]

As yan said, the racks are different, do you know whether the rack was changed with the engine?

 

The bearing shouldn't affect how heavy or light your steering is, I don't think.

[tobe_k 0]

When you say "sounds like a belt" do you mean its got too much tension or not enough or something else?

 

As for whether the rack was changed with the engine, i just dont know, they guy that did the conversion owned the car 2 owners previous to me. I would assume that he would have kept the 1.8 rack if it was all working properly. Is there anyway i can tell easily?

 

One theory i did have was that the steering tie rod ends might have some extra play, hence the steering rack is moving before the wheels start to turn themselves. This would also make them tighten up on entrance into corners, especially under braking which is when its worse.... the play might cause the wheels to toe in or out a bit. This could also result in extra strain on the bearing which might have been the cause...

 

Does this sound plausable?

 

I guess the only way to find out for sure is to get busy with the spanners, just some ideas of things to especially look for when i do is the idea of this post..

 

Cheers for your replies so far yan and boost

[boost monkey 0]

When you say "sounds like a belt" do you mean its got too much tension or not enough or something else?

 

As for whether the rack was changed with the engine, i just dont know, they guy that did the conversion owned the car 2 owners previous to me. I would assume that he would have kept the 1.8 rack if it was all working properly. Is there anyway i can tell easily?

 

Well, the VR6 rack is known as the 'waffle' rack due to the embossed square pattern on it's main body. You may have to remove the rack from the subframe to check this though. The 4pot rack looks quite smooth and plain.

 

One theory i did have was that the steering tie rod ends might have some extra play, hence the steering rack is moving before the wheels start to turn themselves. This would also make them tighten up on entrance into corners, especially under braking which is when its worse.... the play might cause the wheels to toe in or out a bit. This could also result in extra strain on the bearing which might have been the cause...

 

Does this sound plausable?

 

Not personally, no. Play in the TREs wouldn't account for the wheels moving; you'd feel the change through the steering column and wheel unless the internal gearing of your steering rack is fooked. I think your TREs would have to be properly dead (like, really REALLY floppy with no resistance) for the wheels toe-in or track to be affected on the fly. The TREs slot through the hubs in tapered holes after all, for the very reason of keeping spontaneous suspension geometry changes to a minimum whilst driving!

 

hope this helps.