Central locking Question? (yes I know Im sorry)

[Leonard 0]

REALLY trying to sort out my central locking today!

 

If the central locking pump isnt blowing (it is sucking :norty: ). Could there be any reason for this other than a broken pump? I bought another pump the other day and the seller has just assured me (cheers Steesh 8) ) that it was working fine.

 

Just replaced the drivers door actuator. Stripped and lubed the lock mechanism and a while ago i tried someones spare door handle. Still nothing :(

 

So i am pretty sure it is down to the pump not blowing. I have checked with the pump out and the vaccuum hose off and it is defo sucking but not blowing :camp:

 

Any ideas anyone?

 

Cheers

 

Matt

[Leonard 0]

Just checked using the passenger side lock and the pump is blowing and sucking :clap:

 

Checked the drivers door handle wiring again and it looks fine. No wires dangling off!

 

Soooo it is something (probably electrical ) on the drivers side that is not telling the pump to blow when unlocking the car :scratch:

 

Ok just found this rather wonderful write up by Yandards :clap: :

 

"The central locking system uses 2 'triggers' per side to activate it.

 

One is a microswitch in the door handle that sends an open or close signal to the control unit (located on the c/l pump in the r/h corner of the boot) The other is another microswitch contained in the remote vacuum units that move the door pin to the down position and again can be either open of closed but in a permanant position unlike the door switch.

 

First of all I would unscrew the door pin as far as you can and see if that helps, if not then it's not the door pin. Next step would be to take the door cards out and remove the plastic cover panel on the door from the rear end moving forwards until you get to an electrical plug, this should run around into the door handle microswitch, if you unplug this and then get in the car close the door and push the door lock pin down it should lock the whole car. Do this for both passenger and driver sides. If you have a multimeter you can check correct operation of the door switches, the brown cable is common so put a test probe in there, then stick a test probe in either of the other two connectors and turn the key in the door handle, with the multimeter set to resistance it should drop from 1 to around 0 in one key direction, change one of the test probes over and it should drop to 0 in the opposite direction. If you plug it in one side and it reads around 0 without turning the key then that microswitch is broken and is sending a permanent open command to the control unit, just leave it unplugged until you can get a new handle.

 

You should get 11-12v(battery) coming from the car (not handle) end of the connector, IIRC the red wire is the live one so podge a probe in that and select DC volts on the multimeter and ground the other probe on something metal (door rivets are good) Again do this both sides, this will prove the plugs inside the A pillars are connected ok.

 

The final plug to check is the one that goes to the vacuum unit in each door, again unplug each one in turn and try to lock the car using the key, (you will need to reconnect the door handle plugs if they are both ok) if you get a fault with one then leave it disconnected and get a replacement.

 

Another thing to look at if you are not getting any voltage at the plugs is that they are unplugged inside the car (passenger side door connectors are in front of the heater motor, drop the lower dash tray off and follow the loom coming out of the door. Drivers side is up by the fusebox, again drop the fusebox cover, dash tray and unclip the fuse box then follow the wiring out of the door.) Or the red cables join into one from the door handle and lock pin plugs before the bottom of the door, if you have low voltage at the plug then it is likely this has broken down/corroded so it needs cleaning up and soldering to sort it.

 

Hope that all helps, it's fresh in my head as I had to do it all yesterday!"

[Leonard 0]

So i started following the check list and I only got to:

 

"Next step would be to take the door cards out and remove the plastic cover panel on the door from the rear end moving forwards until you get to an electrical plug, this should run around into the door handle microswitch, if you unplug this and then get in the car close the door and push the door lock pin down it should lock the whole car."

 

With the drivers side door handle microswitch 'unplugged' I push the door pin down and IT DOES NOT lock the whole car.

 

So what does that mean??? Anyone? :scratch: :epicfail: LOL

[Yandards 0]

It can mean a few things!

 

Check that the driver side door handle is getting power as I describe later on in the original guide.

 

Confirm that when you push down the drivers side interior door knob that first of all it does actually lock the door (this is a mechanical link to the door lock) then look inside the door and you should be able to see the central locking positioner/actuator, this should have a link from the door lock (the gold coloured thing on the end of the door) and should move when you push/pull the interior door locking knob.

 

If all the mechanical links are in place and the car is locking/unlocking on the central locking on the passenger side then this confirms that the actuator is getting the vacuum from the pump, but it does not prove that the actuator is getting power. To check for power at the actuator remove the electrical plug and if you put a multimeter on pin 1 (red wire) and then ground to earth it should read around battery volts. If you are getting power then it is likely the door actuator is bust. Double check the wiring first though by continuity checking pin 2 (black and red wire) through to the pump connection block pin 9, pin 3 on the actuator (brown and blue wire) should ground to earth, and pin 4 (yellow wire) to pin 2 on the pump connection block.

[Leonard 0]

It can mean a few things!

 

Check that the driver side door handle is getting power as I describe later on in the original guide.

 

Confirm that when you push down the drivers side interior door knob that first of all it does actually lock the door (this is a mechanical link to the door lock) then look inside the door and you should be able to see the central locking positioner/actuator, this should have a link from the door lock (the gold coloured thing on the end of the door) and should move when you push/pull the interior door locking knob.

 

If all the mechanical links are in place and the car is locking/unlocking on the central locking on the passenger side then this confirms that the actuator is getting the vacuum from the pump, but it does not prove that the actuator is getting power. To check for power at the actuator remove the electrical plug and if you put a multimeter on pin 1 (red wire) and then ground to earth it should read around battery volts. If you are getting power then it is likely the door actuator is bust. Double check the wiring first though by continuity checking pin 2 (black and red wire) through to the pump connection block pin 9, pin 3 on the actuator (brown and blue wire) should ground to earth, and pin 4 (yellow wire) to pin 2 on the pump connection block.

 

Cheers mate. Guess i had better buy a multimeter! Getting bloomin expensive trying to fix this. But not so much as if i let someone else look at it so.......

 

Thanks again

 

Matt

[Leonard 0]

Ok bought a multimeter today and it does look like the brown wire is faulty in the closed position and sending a constant close command to the pump.

 

Just goes to show that you cant go by appearances only as they look completely fine at both ends :confused4:

 

I also tried a replacement door handle but I guess that one may have been faulty as well. Ho hum will try new door handle and see how we go, hey its probably the only part i havent replaced now so..... :lol:

 

Cheers again Yandards

 

Matt