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Johnkerry

Crackling Noise under load on G60

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Hi, Im the person who brought Andy`s Nugget G60. I hope somebody can help,Its as the Subject says really under load the Engine is making a crackling noise it only does this when im driving, there is no signs of it if i rev the engine out of gear, it almost sounds like electricty arcking :shrug: Im very worried that it could be pinking ( pre-detination) sorry about the spelling.

Has anyone had the same sort of problem? Can anyone give me any pointers on where to start looking as i have no experience which the G60, any help and advice would be great as i dont want to drive the car cause i dont want to melt a piston :scratch:

 

John.

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sound like its pinking, check your timing is not too far advanced as i had the exact same thing on mine.

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If you think it is Pinking it might be worth trying some octane booster or marking and backing off the timing slightly... I've had a couple of bad tanks of optimax before thats made the car run really flat.

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yep that crackling noise is det.

Along with the suggestion above make sure your knock sensor is torqued up correctly to the block and that your dizzy isn't too far advanced.You need a timing light for this really but you can start by checking the distributor and intermediate pulley ignition alignment marks are where they would normally be from factory.

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Thanks for the replys fellas, its a bit hard to tell when you`ve never heard it before. Sorry to sound abit stupid but whats the best way to check the timing and can the adjustments be made on the dissy cap ? The petrol here is not as high ron as UK so booster might be my best bet and thinking back this is my first full tank of Paddy Petrol is there any perticular booster to use because on our Renault 5 we were told never to use it cause it damages the vaule stem seels.

 

Thanks again for the help i was starting to think i had done something wrong as ive started a couple of threads and had no replys at all :)

 

John.

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yep that crackling noise is det.

Along with the suggestion above make sure your knock sensor is torqued up correctly to the block and that your dizzy isn't too far advanced.You need a timing light for this really but you can start by checking the distributor and intermediate pulley ignition alignment marks are where they would normally be from factory.

 

You must have read my mind :lol: youve answered most of the questions i was just bizzy typing. Thanks i feel like such a newbee :lol: :)

This car is just so different to what im used to. Give me a year and ill know it inside out.

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Just a quick update fella`s , I put Octane Booster in today and seems to have sovled the pinking problem for now but its an expensive solution 30euros a bottle ( the best one they had ) so i think i will have to retard the ignition abit.

This is properly a stupid question but only if you know the answer, Which way do i turn the distributer to retard the ignition ?

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Yeah I can never remember either but you need to as it will get worse when the weather gets hotter...

 

Best to go for a drive with a 13mm ratchet spanner and keep backing it off until it stops pinking - mark the current position first

 

Or... use an adjustable strobe light to measure the current advance (probably around 7-8 degrees) then set it to the factory 6 for a bit to check it's ok.

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Wierd, I was just about to type the exact same thing! I have the same problem, it's only under full throttle and in gear- sounds kinda like a loose bolt vibrating but I would call it crackling.. It's been like this for a while, is that very bad news for the engine?

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Wierd, I was just about to type the exact same thing! I have the same problem, it's only under full throttle and in gear- sounds kinda like a loose bolt vibrating but I would call it crackling.. It's been like this for a while, is that very bad news for the engine?

prolonged pinking will cause damage in the long run. however make sure you guys are using super unleaded with the correct RON as this could cause pinking also.

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counter clock retards.

 

No need for that mate - I just couldn't remember ok! :lol:

 

As above - I would only run a G60 on Super or the highest Octane fuel you can find

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Had the timing backed off 3 degrees by garage, but engine is still pinking. Only under load as before, but the clattering sounds a lot crisper and louder than before! Does it need backing off more? Or could this be a problem with the knock sensor?

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counter clock retards.

 

 

I think you'll find that turning the distributor clockwise will retard the timing. The rotor arm inside the dizzy is turning clockwise so you want to move the contacts on the cap further away at any given moment making the spark later...........

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counter clock retards.

 

 

I think you'll find that turning the distributor clockwise will retard the timing. The rotor arm inside the dizzy is turning clockwise so you want to move the contacts on the cap further away at any given moment making the spark later...........

 

 

my bad.

 

always best to verify with a timing light tho.

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well fellas my pinking problem is back again :(

I filled the car up today with the same 99ron petrol i have been using since the last episode 5 mins after the car started pinking again i got some octane booster but that didnt help so i had to crawl home 60 miles. The one thing i did notice was my inlet manifold was red hot im sure i remember reading on here that that was a sign of some sort of problem but i cant remember what. I didnt retart the timming last time so ill have to do that now.

 

Can someone please tell me, Where do i line the timing mark on the top pulley with ?

How do i work out the standard 6drg advance ?

How retarded is to retarded ? ( no smart comments please ) :)

 

I hope i can get this sorted before tomorrow as im surposed to be going to a Rally.

Thanks. John

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I have copied this from another site as it is put very well.

 

It would be nice to have this stuff in the wiki on here in the g60 section..if it is not already

setting the timing

 

Service Adjustment Mode

 

Before attempting to set the ignition timing or base idle speed the ECU must be put into service adjustment mode. This is done by making sure the engine is thoroughly warm and then disconnecting the multi-plug from the blue coolant temperature sensor while the engine is running.

 

If the engine stalls at any point while making adjustments to the timing and base idle speed the multi-plug must be refitted to the coolant temperature sensor before re-starting the engine. Failure to do this will cause the ECU to enter ‘limp home’ mode. Adjustments will then not be possible until you have cleared the faults from the ECU memory.

 

Ignition Timing

 

The procedure in the Haynes manual will give a rough timing setting. To set the timing properly the following procedure is needed. Digifant has an unusual procedure for setting the timing so please follow the instructions carefully.

 

With the ECU in service adjustment mode blip the throttle so that the engine revs past 2500 rpm. Do this four times.

 

Increase the engine speed from idle to between 2000 and 2500 rpm and check the timing. This should be 6° +/-1°. If adjustment is needed slacken the distributor fixing bolts and turn the distributor until you have the correct timing.

 

Allow the engine to return to idle speed and re-connect the multi-plug to the blue coolant temperature sensor. Blip the throttle three times, making sure the engine speed rises over 3000 rpm each time.

 

Check the ignition timing now advances with increased revs by slowly increasing the engine speed while watching the timing marks. Without an expensive timing light you will not be able to accurately measure the advance, but it should be around 40° at 2800 rpm.

 

Idle Speed

 

Before attempting to adjust the idle speed make sure the ignition timing is correct. It is also worth taking the idle speed control valve off the engine and thoroughly spraying it with carburettor cleaner. If the engine has done any significant mileage you will be amazed at the amount of black goo that comes out of the valve.

 

The regulated engine speed is controlled by the ECU and is not adjustable. The ECU regulates idle speed by opening and closing the idle speed control valve and also by making continuous small adjustments to the ignition timing. However for this to work properly the base idle speed must be set correctly.

 

To set the base idle speed remove the breather hose from the pressure regulating valve on the cam cover and plug the hose. Start the engine and allow it to idle for a couple of minutes and then put the ECU into service adjustment mode by detaching the multi-plug from the blue coolant temperature sensor.

 

Blip the throttle three times, making sure the engine speed rises over 3000 rpm each time. Allow the engine to return to idle and then use the idle adjustment screw to set the idle speed to 920 rpm +/- 25 rpm.

 

Re-connect the coolant temperature sensor, unplug and re-connect the breather hose. The engine speed should now settle down to the correct regulated figure of 900 to 950 rpm.

 

CO Adjustment

 

Without an exhaust gas analyser there is no way you can measure the CO content. However don’t despair because the CO adjustment screw only affects the CO content at idle and the lambda sensor will adjust the idle mixture to the correct value – provided it is working OK.

 

 

You just want the ignition timing section.

if you don't have a timing light you will have to take it to someone who does.

 

Also make sure that the knock sensor is torqued up properly and that it is connected thru to the ecu.

hth

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That helps an awful lot m8 thanks very much. I dont have timing light so it looks like cars off to the garage but i will print that out to take with me as none of the garages round here have ever seen a Corrado before let-alone a G60 , i hate taking cars to garages as you never know what your going to get. Thanks again.

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A good garage would have seen that procedure b4 as it is the same for all digifant engines like the common pb engine in the 8v mark 2 golf.

 

Every town usually has a vw specialist or two so maybe try and find your local one.

 

Hope u sort it out.

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Seems you have described the exact problem i had a week ago. If you still can't sort it and your car feels a bit flat do a compression test cos I have a cracked piston

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sorry just a couple more questions about the knock sensor, Has the knock sensor got limitations on the amount of retardation it can make ?

 

What is the correct torque setting for the knock sensor and is there any way of testing it to make sure its working properly ?

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you can do a rough check by holding the engine at a certain rpm shining the timing light down to you see the datum mark on the fly wheel which should stay in roughly the same position at a particular rpm if the car is stationary.

Then if you tap the block with a spanner or something you should se the datum mark move as the ecu retartds the timing.Again u need a timing light for this.

Take it to a good garage,and get them to confirm that it is Det that you can hear.Sounds like your ignition timing is out and the ecu(which can only retard timing so much) can do enough to make it stop.

 

 

Does the timing mark on the intermediate shaft line up to where it should?

Are your coolant temps normal?

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Another thing to check it that the TDC mark on the crank pulley lines up with the one on the flywheel. The crank pulleys have a habit of breaking off the keyway and the pulley then starts to move. It can cause the intermittent kind of timing problem you seem to have.

I've had to fix at least 4 G60 cranks/pulleys by drilling and dowel pinning the crank pulley to the crank.

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I went to my local garage today about the timing and he said he hasnt got a timing light but he would do it by ear :nuts: i didnt like the sound of that so i went and brought a timing light of my own. Ive never used one before so i need a little bit of help i know how to connect it up and to look for TDC on the flywheel but the things i dont understand are - How do i work out the 6 degree advance and which is plug number one ? Any help would be great.

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