mikehiow 0 Posted March 24, 2009 My engine makes all sorts of odd noises, I'm guessing it's a combination of tired chains/guides/pads and tired/old tappets, however, I thought I'd check. Are the tappets being noisy a common thing? Can this be sorted to any degree with different oil, or perhaps it's the result of wrong oil? Oil change is the next thing on the list - While I'm on the subject, what oil should I be going for on a 130k engine, I was just planning on getting a "kit" from Opie. If it's the tappets, can it be sorted? What's involved? When driving it's not so bad, but idling in small spaces, and over-run, it's more annoying than anything else. Any advice would be much appreciated! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Reggit 0 Posted March 24, 2009 Mine's going tappety as well, but not 'chainey'. Mileage is dead on 100k, I'm just ignoring it at the minute until it needs something else doing on the top end. Oil changes haven't affected my noise, however it's only really noticably loud with the bonnet up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted March 25, 2009 They're all a bitty clattery, it's just how they are. You will notice that quality oil helps, and keeping it topped up close to the max mark helps too (it's noticeably noisier when the oil level is low). If yours is *particularly* loud then maybe you have a problem, but most people think their VR is a "bit tappy" and it doesn't really mean there's anything wrong with it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted March 25, 2009 Stick some new INA tappets in with Schimmel 263 cams and that'll quieten it right down, and give you some more poke :D Mine runs those very items and it's very quiet, no tapping at all 8) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted March 25, 2009 Stick some new INA tappets in with Schimmel 263 cams and that'll quieten it right down, and give you some more poke :D Mine runs those very items and it's very quiet, no tapping at all 8) Does yours still count as a "VR"? Almost all the components have been replaced with new/third party ones. Try and think back to when you had a standard car and you whinged about it being clattery for no good reason .. ;) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted March 25, 2009 You should be on Time Team the way you keep digging up the past! Of course mine is still a VR, just because it has a turbo on it and aftermarket cams, it doesn't alter how tappets move up and down :wink: Yes mine was kind of clattery in the early days, but that was before I learned about different oils and tappet quality etc etc. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted March 25, 2009 I have a long memory. FWIW my VR is also noticeably quieter and smoother after a long cruise (an hour or two at speed). If you're just driving it backwards and forwards in traffic all the time it's always a little lumpier and a little noisier. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted March 25, 2009 To be honest if I had a VR6 with over 100k miles on it, noisey with original chains etc I would just fit a new engine from either VW or VEGE exchange. A mate of mine is running a VEGE engine in a Vento VR and it's unbelievably quiet and smooth, you can only just here it at idle! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted March 25, 2009 Hmm, let's get a sense of perspective here .. swap the engine just cos it's a bit clattery? You'll be buying a new car just because the dash creaks next! I'd be inclined to swap the engine if you're suffering from chronic oil consumption or big-end noises or bore wear, but if it's running fine and just a bit clattery, change the oil and get on with your life..! :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
andy 0 Posted March 25, 2009 Hmm, let's get a sense of perspective here .. swap the engine just cos it's a bit clattery? You'll be buying a new car just because the dash creaks next! I'd be inclined to swap the engine if you're suffering from chronic oil consumption or big-end noises or bore wear, but if it's running fine and just a bit clattery, change the oil and get on with your life..! :) Spot on. :clap: What a hilarious suggestion, anybody would think that an engine was a sealed unit with no replaceable parts. Thankfully mine has 133k on it, original chains and doesn't clatter.....much.....really. I think it'll do another 133k before I think about swapping the engine because of it! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikehiow 0 Posted March 25, 2009 If it were a case of changing the engine, I'd wait until the current one died first anyway :lol: I'd be interested to know the cost of cams and tappets, and what's involved in doing them? Is it a case of dropping the gearbox out to slack the chains, or is there a better method? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
andy 0 Posted March 25, 2009 Cams and tappets don't need the gearbox or chains removing. You wouldn't even need to remove the head. Tappets are about £100 for INA ones from GSF, 263 cams if you went for them are in the region of £300, check the recent group buys, might even be cheaper. Then the obligatory remap.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikehiow 0 Posted March 25, 2009 How do the cams "mate" with the cam sprockets then? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
andy 0 Posted March 26, 2009 From memory they just bolt on the end, like most cam sprockets do. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
