clutch problem

[klaus30 0]

hi can anybody tell me what type of clutch i would have in a

 

j reg (92) 2.0ltr 16v

 

mechanical or hydraulic

 

 

:shrug:

[Walesy 0]

All Corrados came with a hydraulic clutch mate

[klaus30 0]

thanks matey

 

just out of interest would any 1 know what would cause the clutch pedal to just all of a sudden hit the floor and stay there untill you pull it up.

 

there is no resistance on the pedal it just gets to a certain point the hits the deck and stays there :(

[Walesy 0]

That sounds like the slave or master cylinder has gone, try using the search mate you'll find loads of threads :grin:

[mikehiow 0]

I have a similar issue, my clutch randomly looses pressure, a few pumps and it's fine again - and it happens more often when going fast.

 

Everyone has pointed me towards the Master Cylinder, however, I've managed to aquire known working full clutch hydraulics s/h for £45 :)

[pete_griff 0]

I have a similar issue, my clutch randomly looses pressure, a few pumps and it's fine again - and it happens more often when going fast.

 

Everyone has pointed me towards the Master Cylinder, however, I've managed to aquire known working full clutch hydraulics s/h for £45 :)

 

not wishing to rain on your parade or anything there (unless of course they are nearly new replacements). but it's false economy buying old second hand parts like that.

the reason master cylinders/slave clinders etc fail is due to wear and tear through lots of use due to their age, and also due to internals etc rusting up as the fluid almost never gets changed as often as it should and water ingress causes things to go south.

 

replacing the whole lot isn't that horribly expensive; although VW (bless their cottons!) have thoughtfully thrown a spanner into the works recently by superseeding all the old corrado clutch masters.

this basically means for you that you'll have to get hold of a replacement clutch pedal as well due to the different mounting attachment of the newer master. the pedal costs around £35 from VW, but last i knew they were on back order from germany.

alternatively you can get hold of them from certain older VW's (around a '95 or '96 passat for certain as i pulled one out of a passat on an M-plate).

a new slave costs circa £30 iirc and the new flexi line costs circa £45 from VW (although i will have a brand new unused one for sale very shortly - please PM me if you're interested!)

 

oh - one other thing - thoughfully by VW the solid lines that come off the master are different too - so you'll have to get some made up, or rob some from another vehicle - not sure on VW's solution to that, as i just went for braided straight from the master to the slave - which in all honesty is your best option here if you do have to go new OEM.

 

hope that helps :)

[mikehiow 0]

I appreciate the advice Pete, however, knowing these are good for now, it'll at least, get me going again - although, in afterthought, the slave on mine has been replaced already, so I will just grab the master first. The part is coming from a friend (and a member here) - it's in known working order, and if nothing else, will tie me over, if only temporarily.

 

Here is what I was quoted for the clutch hydraulics from a friend at a dealer, your estimates were pretty good :)

 

Master Cylinder is 358721388 Retails at £88.86+ to you £66.64+

Slave Cylinder is 357721261A Retails at £65.00+ to you £48.75+

Hose is 357721465A retails at £42.01+ to you £37.81+ (dont get alot off this)

And two seals 431721493 & 431721494 both £0.50+

 

I would however, be interested to hear how you did the braided line, what's required, where you routed it and where you sourced it from, this sounds like a far better option imo, it eliminates the pipes from my problem, and I'd imagine should give the clutch a better feel?

 

Also, I've been looking for information on the easiest way to get to and change the master cylinder, can you shed any light here?

[pete_griff 0]

I appreciate the advice Pete, however, knowing these are good for now, it'll at least, get me going again - although, in afterthought, the slave on mine has been replaced already, so I will just grab the master first. The part is coming from a friend (and a member here) - it's in known working order, and if nothing else, will tie me over, if only temporarily.

 

Here is what I was quoted for the clutch hydraulics from a friend at a dealer, your estimates were pretty good :)

 

Master Cylinder is 358721388 Retails at £88.86+ to you £66.64+

Slave Cylinder is 357721261A Retails at £65.00+ to you £48.75+

Hose is 357721465A retails at £42.01+ to you £37.81+ (dont get alot off this)

And two seals 431721493 & 431721494 both £0.50+

 

I would however, be interested to hear how you did the braided line, what's required, where you routed it and where you sourced it from, this sounds like a far better option imo, it eliminates the pipes from my problem, and I'd imagine should give the clutch a better feel?

 

Also, I've been looking for information on the easiest way to get to and change the master cylinder, can you shed any light here?

 

no worries pal - had the braided line made up at merlin motorsport when i popped by there not so long ago while finishing my car off - just took them the new master and said i wanted 1 meter of braided flexi line with the same male fitting on either end (think it's an M12 fine thread off the top of my head). the pedal feel is defo improved, i'm not happy with the routing of the flexi line at the mo as it's a little too loose and a bit messy - need to get busy with the zip-ties when i get the car back.

(i just junked all the old hard/flexi lines by the way)

 

the clutch master is fairly easy to get to - just two 13mm nuts inside the drivers footwell and the nut that holds the solid line into the master's outlet in the engine bay. the problems you'll have i've detailed above (if you decide to get hold of a new one at a later date). if you're replacing it with another older one, then it should be a straight swap and it's a pretty straightforward task

:)

[mikehiow 0]

So it's merely a case of telling someone the thread size on either end, and the length needed, they make the pipe, then I fit it?

 

Edit: I've just found someone local who can do this, I shall get on this Monday morning :)

 

Sounds easy enough!

 

How did you stop fluid pissing everywhere, is it safe to clamp the hose? I don't really fancy emptying all of my hydraulics :( (I assume the clutch can't be emptied independently of the brake system, as it'd just pull more from the reservoir, or am I missing something here?

 

I'm learning slowly, but I'm getting there :)

[pete_griff 0]

So it's merely a case of telling someone the thread size on either end, and the length needed, they make the pipe, then I fit it?

 

Edit: I've just found someone local who can do this, I shall get on this Monday morning :)

 

Sounds easy enough!

 

How did you stop fluid pissing everywhere, is it safe to clamp the hose? I don't really fancy emptying all of my hydraulics :( (I assume the clutch can't be emptied independently of the brake system, as it'd just pull more from the reservoir, or am I missing something here?

 

I'm learning slowly, but I'm getting there :)

 

hey there again pal - it is easy enough!

 

it's advisable to drain the fluid from the system (or as much of it as you can) first. do this by attaching a nice long piece of washer jet hose to the bleed nipple on the slave, open it up and then watch all the lfuid drain out - simple! you may have to give the clutch pedal a few pumps at the end to make sure all the fluid has worked it's way out.

you won't need to worry about bleeding the brakes; if you look on the reservoir, the take off for the clutch is about 1/2 to 2/3 of the way down the reservoir on the side. the fluid level will drop to there, but no further - meaning that there will still be fluid in the braking system, no airlocks, and everything braking wise will be fine, so you don't need to touch the brakes - just make sure you refill the reservoir properly when you are putting it all back together!

 

once you've got the last of the fluid out, rip everything out of the engine bay and begin fitting the new stuff.

point to note - it's worth having a small bucket nearby with car shampoo etc in it and a clean rag/sponge to quickly remove any brake fluid that accidentally finds it's way onto your paintwork.

 

as for bleeding (don't want to teach you to suck eggs) but it's worthwhile having a friend to hand here. if you don't then something like a Gunson Eezibleed kit is invaluable.

anyway bleeding; get a friend to sit in the car once everything has been refitted. open up the bleed nipple on the slave get them to press the clutch pedal down and hold it to the floor, once the pedal is on the floor tighten up the bleed nipple and get them to allow the clutch pedal to rise back up again (most of the time when bleeding corrados, the pedal will actaully require pulling back up to the top). repeat this process many times until you get a nice constant stream of consistently coloured liquid with no air bubbles in it (this is where the washer tube comes in handy - don't forget to put the other end in a bottle or something to collect the excess). don't forget to keep a strict eye on the level of the reservoir during bleeding, as if you let air into the system from the top, it makes all your previous work useless!

if you're doing it on your own with a gunson etc, then all the destructions will/should be included with the kit.

 

good luck! :)

[mikehiow 0]

Thanks, that answers a lot of my questions, last time I bled my clutch, I filled a jar up with fluid, stuck a bit of hose from the bleed nipple to it, and pumped, A poor mans eazi-bleed I guess :)

 

But I'm wondering if I didn't notice the clutch feed in the reservoir and allowed some air to get in, it seems unlikely, but I think I'll try a quick bleed again before changing stuff :)

[pete_griff 0]

Thanks, that answers a lot of my questions, last time I bled my clutch, I filled a jar up with fluid, stuck a bit of hose from the bleed nipple to it, and pumped, A poor mans eazi-bleed I guess :)

 

But I'm wondering if I didn't notice the clutch feed in the reservoir and allowed some air to get in, it seems unlikely, but I think I'll try a quick bleed again before changing stuff :)

 

no worries.

i also forgot to mention - it's worth bleeding the bleed nipple on the clutch master itself after "the main" bleeding as you sometimes find you get a fair amount of air out of there as well...

(the new clutch masters that are now supplied by vw don't have a bleed nipple on the master - it's all done at the slave :( )