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vr6 syncro running gear queries

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hey all first post so be kind :lol:

 

iwas looking at getting a vr6 corrado as a project car and it sort of spiraled into the idea of making it a syncro using the mk3 golf vr6 bits :D

 

but just how much power/torque can they vr6 syncro bits handle before going pop, i have looked about and cant seem to find an answer to this question on here but im sure someone will know :?

 

im not quite sure if this in the wrong place if so can the mods move it accordingly, thanks

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i see, that would be fine for starters, but that means it would be cutting it a bit fine if i wanted to go down the r32 route at a later date, im guessing that 4 motion stuff is still haldex, correct?

 

has anyone come up with a cheap haldex controller yet? hehehhehe :D

 

this is only brain storming atm as i just want to plan it all before making a desicion to start cutting up the car and play with the dreaded wiring :gag:

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If you're going to do all that, you may as well fit haldex from the start pal, there are conversion kits avaliable from places like dutchdub to accomodate the haldex diff, have a seach for yeti's thread on here, he's doing the conversion on here but there are a few others who have also done it, plus there is a stickied 4wd thread. I wouldn't even bother with the syncro stuff, it was never very good.

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i have seen the syncro rear beam mods that dutchdub sell, but im more concerned about the haldex controllers as they are about $1000 and that is alot of money for a stepper moter and a switch :?

 

the other thing is how available are the r32 engines and the haldex that goes with it, surley they are quite pricey still?

 

and are there flywheel options instead of the dual mass items currently fitted?

 

you see by changing to haldex alot of things need to be ironed out for my peice of mind :cuckoo:

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more than likely possible, but space and one off parts will probably be an issue, after all grant parkers mk1 golf is audi stuff but the engine also.....

 

but the only audi mechanical 4wd stuff i know of changes the way the vr6 sits in the bay, ie cam chain facing the front and flywheel to the bulkhead (cant remember the term for this atm :lol: ), unless i have missed something.

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if your fitting an R32 and using the oem loom and ecu, use this to control the haldex diff just like in a mk4. Wont need a standalone controller then.

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really!!!! thats good news thanks :salute:

 

how much of the loom do i need? up to the fuse box or beyond that too?, and haldex works of the abs sensors too so will i need to have abs on the rado?

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really!!!! thats good news thanks :salute:

 

how much of the loom do i need? up to the fuse box or beyond that too?, and haldex works of the abs sensors too so will i need to have abs on the rado?

 

abs is standard on all rados, well I think so any way

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indeed they do, to which i meant do the mk4 golf r32 have the same abs rings or spacing?

 

 

 

Ahhhhhh right ok :brickwall: I tryed :grin:

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no worries my posts are cryptic at the best of times, i have a horrible habbit of missing words out here and there :mad2:

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The easiest thing to do is find a written off 3.2 Audi or golf which are all 4wd, take all the components off it and mount them onto the Corrado, brakes, ABS, engine, gearbox, dash etc. you will have to do a little modding but it's all easily possible. By transferring all the components over it actually makes the wiring easier in a lot of ways. You are escentially re-shelling a modern car.

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but where do i find such a car that wont cost an aboslute bomb, i have a limited budget to do this and i would have thought that finding a written off r32 would go well over that, unless i get the r32 engine separate and find a 4motion golf/bora :D

 

ie

r32 engine 1500 ish

loom and ecu ?? 250 at a guess

haldex havent got a clue probably be 650 ish

let alone brakes, wiring, pipeing, and actually getting it running sweet

and everything else that i dont yet know :lol:

 

where do you lot go to find such cars to strip down?

 

although i have read the definitve 24v into rado thread it poses to ask more questions than actually answers.

 

can anyone actually put up what is needed?

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You'll find a 3.2 Audi A3 or TT is cheaper than an R32 and is just as usable (if not more) and a slightly more powerful engine. A complete car usually costs about 4.5K, you can make a lot of the money back by selling all the parts you don't need, like the interior, glass body panels etc. Probably half of the purchase cost but it might take a while to shift all the bits. I know it's a large initial outlay but it'll work out cheaper and easier in the long run.

 

Getting everything from one car makes the process MUCH easier. And you can nick all the little clips and stuff you wouldn't get if you bought the stuff independently, and you also have a live donor that shows just where everything goes etc. If I was doing my conversion again, this is how I would have done it.

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:shock: well hasnt this little project spiraled up alot :lol:

 

can anyone point me in the direction of where to get a whole car like that from as i havent even got the slightest clue of where to look.

 

thanks for all the input so far guys :notworthy:

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Ring around a few of the bigger breakers and ask them, try the DVLA maybe, insurance companies....ebay!!

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more than likely possible, but space and one off parts will probably be an issue, after all grant parkers mk1 golf is audi stuff but the engine also.....

 

but the only audi mechanical 4wd stuff i know of changes the way the vr6 sits in the bay, ie cam chain facing the front and flywheel to the bulkhead (cant remember the term for this atm :lol: ), unless i have missed something.

 

Longitudinal?

 

If it's a project car, why not go spaceframe and stick an Audi V8 quattro in it? I fancy it but need someone to lead the way.

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ahahhaha i would love to do it for you if you supplied the parts :grin:

 

looks like i have taken a reality check mainly down to finances :bad-words:

 

and will be going down the vr6t route and mk3 golf vr6 syncro and get the engine to a reliable 280 ish hp, should be quick and nice and grippy :clap:

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Hello!

 

another corrado/4x4 mentalist :wave: :cuckoo: :lol:

 

I am also using mk3 vr syncro rear end (ish - i'm using the trialing arms but mk2 syncro central frame which is basically the same from the mk2 rallye/syncro but the body mounts on the mk3 vr syncro are a bit beefier)

 

Ok before you read the next bit dont get scared off! This is not an easy conversionlike slinging a replacement engine in but is logical and as long as you are prepared to devote alot of time to the cause you will get out the other side (i hope as i am at the stage of finishing off installing the floor! lol)

 

The best advice i can give you is buy a complete write off, its how i did it, stripped and kept only what i needed.

 

Engine & box

Front and rear brakes

Front and rear halfshafts

2 piece central driveshaft

Complete front and rear subframes inc haldex diff and the v good cast ally front wishbones

Complte engine and cross car wiring inc door looms

complete Dash board and plastics

clocks

pedals

gear linkages

keys

steering column (essential for the steering position sensor needed for the haldex and traction control to work right)

air con compressor/ rad etc

climatronic module and all dash buttons

downpipe (the audi one is better quality apparently but i intend to chop mine around to fit in the corral tunnel and then heat wrap it)

should have kept the rear exhaust for the variable flap in it (but there is a new pipe with device you can buy thats better if you are putting a custom exhaust on so you can do without, its a 3 stage y piece with 3 switchable modes, quiet running with a butterfly slightly obscusign the flow to dampen noise, normal, and straight throgh which bypasses the rear boxes and chucks the ehaust straight out the othe rfork in the y)

2 cats - fooking expensive and necessary if running mk4 electronics

ecu

 

so you do need the whole car to turn it into mk4 platform 3.2 engined car with full diagnostic capabilities and tuning options, you can then achieve a factory smooth motor with 280-290 brake after a remap and a good exhaust.

 

You will also need either a mk3 vr or b4 passat vr syncro for the...

rear floor

central subframe

trailing arms

cast body mounts

subframe brackets

rear diff to jig the frame if installing haldex

shafts are a good idea too just in case you cant get r32 stylee ones

fuel tank & pump

 

then you need

 

a new gearbox mount

modify your front subframe - notch for aircon compressor and remove and reweld gearbox side mounting cup as new mounting bracket is needed to move fix 20mm rearwards to allow for the driveshaft to clear

new mounting cage and brackets to fix haldex rear diff (dutchdub stuff is spot on if a little pricey with the euro atm but marcel is a very helpfull gent)

shortened front and rear driveshafts (not sure on the specs yet as i am yet to get to this stage)

shortened front to rear driveshaft

mk3 golf vr6 syncro coilovers

new radiator

new custom exhaust to get through the corrado tunnel and around the syncro rear beam and tank

new mk2 rallye tunnel heat shields to protect the driveshaft from the exhaust

 

I have also added 6/8 point full msa approved weld in roll cage

Carbon fibre/leather bucket seats

Race approved fuel tank

new fuel pumps and lines

new brake lines

new wheels and tires to clear brakes - mk4 r32's require 17's at a minimum and then not all 17's will clear the 334mm twin pot monsters

 

you will also need a whole raft of tools and bits and bobs and very understanding friends and family who you will no doubt bore with the details but then thats half the fun 8)

 

I can estimate costs if you want but it can get a lil scary! it is cheaper to buy a 50k mk4 r32 atm and just enjoy that... but its not a corrado and will weigh a fair bit more :D

 

cheers

 

andy

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:lol: just seen the length of the above post... ok the necessary parts are lots... and i've probably missed out a few things but you get the idea!

 

O and i just have totted all that up and not inc the cost of my car and the mods when i started and bearing in mind i saved alot dismantling a car myself for the parts... parts cost so far is over £6k! eek! but thats including well over 2k on seats wheels and cage

 

less probably £1-2k for the parts from your vr you can sell like leather interior, engine, gearbox, ehaust, wheels, brakes etc etc

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ooooo nooooessss, you have given me a shopping list :lol:

 

i must ask you as to where you bought the write off? that seems to be the main stumbling block for me at the moment, i do really like the idea, but a simpler vr6t with mk3 syncro stuff welded in is calling to me.

 

maybe ill have to build both :cuckoo:

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hunt around breakers sites etc you will find them and as people have said the 3.2 a3's and tt's etc go for less but then so do the bits you can sell! the r32 seats/door cards are worth fortune to mk4 or mk4 platform owners as are the wheels and steering wheel and trim, the rear exhaust sells for a pretty pernny and any straight body panels /bumpers will fetch fair amount. o and if you can be so picky, dont get a front end damaged one as the sump may be cracked and the money making bumpers, grill and lights etc will be ruined!

 

i have left out the ecu mapping and costs for machining etc for that, o and all labour would be additional

 

and just to say, that wasnt meant to be negative or put anyone off but its a fair estimation of the parts needed, german and dutch ebay is your friend for this one!

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