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smudge

Storm improvements

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Hi All - Just got my storm back from a respray, took nearly a year! - I made the mistake of telling them there was no rush as I didn't want a bad job - really pleased with the finish thank goodness.

 

Anyway got her back and now want to make a few improvements - I have got a price from Stealth for 263 cams, chains, clutch, tensioners and remap. Also going to go for the 288 and 280 brake upgrade. I wondered if you think my local garage will be able to do the work as it is reasonably straight forward mechanicing or should I take the long drive down south to Stealth. I should add my local garage a vw nuts but wont have done this before.

 

The other thing I was considering is vibra-techniks engine mounts (have searched a lot but can't find out it they are worth it or not)- I can't think of any other mods as want to keep the car reasonably standard as I am concerned about possibly affecting the cars future value - having said that any other mods you might suggest - have got loom upgrade and tt wipers. One final thing with the engine apart for chains, clutch, cams etc anything else I should consider replacing. Thanks :wink:

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get your local place to do the brakes as this will probably be cheaper...... if you want the car mapping to make the most of your new cams then you may as well go to Stealth IMO.

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Too many horror stories from random 'local' garages would make me only ever trust folks like Stealth to do things like timing chains. Sure you're paying extra but you know they'll be putting the thing back together again properly!

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Thank Jim and Vag-hag that make a lot of sense - no point spending money and then worrying if it has been done right.

Any other improvements I should consider?

Smudge

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dont really get the 288mm upgrade....same callipers does it really make much of a differnce?

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have heard its a great upgrade & as big as you can go while keeping 15s. Despite the disc only gaining 8mm the surface area of the pad is much greater....... for me im going down the 323 & brembo 4 pots but it depends on what you want really.

 

@smudge - Stealth are a good bet as they know VRs pretty dam well and have done this job plenty of times! :D

 

PS - :worthless:

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fair emough.

 

my calliper is fooked, so i had a small look yesterday. the ibiza cupra setup without brembo stamped on them seem the most reasonable upgrade

 

but i want 15's forever more

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dont really get the 288mm upgrade....same callipers does it really make much of a differnce?

 

Not the same calipers buddy!

 

The 288mm & 312mm use the same ones though!

 

While the disc is only 8mm bigger the pad is much bigger and yep big difference I reckon!

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Hi haven't got any finished pictures as my car went straight to the garage for a service and MOT then back to the body shop for a final polish - I get on really well with the garage and body shop - can't sing their praises enough. I normally end up helping with the MOTs when I am waiting to pick up my car! (just turning the wheel, pressing the brake, lights and stuff - I normally get a discount off the work to my car :clap:

I have attached some picture of the car after strip down and then in primer. Planning to pick up the car this week going straight into my mums garage! :lol: for winter will get some pictures then.

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I wasn't too enamoured with the Vibratechnics front mount upgrade on my 16v, but I hear nothing but positive comments about it as an upgrade on the VR so well worth thinking about. Despite sounding quite miniscule, the 288mm brakes are supposed to be a very worthy upgrade on the VR - again, only ever hear positive comments from the VR owners who've done the upgrade.

 

Schimmel 263 cams are popular (but fairly expensive) - however a nice exhaust and decent suspension are pretty much all you need on the VR IMHO... :)

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The VR is a smoother engine than the 4 cylinder cars, so you don't get so much vibration from it.

 

I have one, and it's pretty good. Probably do feel a little more vibration, but it's not the end of the world.

 

288mm brakes are a hell of a lot better than the 280s, I've got 288s on the VR and 280s on the 16v and you can really feel the difference when coming to a halt from speed.

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Picking my car up tomorrow morning so will get some finished pictures - is there anything else I should get done at the same time as clutch, chain, tensioners, and cams?

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How many miles has she done?

 

You may want to consider having the head rebuilt as part of "The Big Three" (Clutch/chains/head rebuild)

Might not be a necessity, but it's often done as part of the main overhaul process - the engine should in theory be pretty solid for a long time to come after that. You also may want to replace various parts such as the thermostat housing, crack pipe, sensors etc, but it really depends on how deep your pockets are, and the state of your engine in the first instance!

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Done 104,000miles. Sounds like you need to have a look at the condition before you decide what exactly to replace. My problem is it looks like I am going to drive down to Stealth from Scotland so really want to go with a list of things to do so I don't spend a week there - my wife just gone back to university for 4 years so pockets not that deep!! - having said that I have just sold my 1969 series 2a landrover and am justifying it is ok to spend some of this money on my remaining pride and joy! Having done a few quick searches head rebuild looks like £800.

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Got my car today and safely in storage - remembered to bring my camera but battery was flat so no shiny pictures - sorry.

Dropped an e-mail to stealth going to go down in March probably for a head rebuild, cams, clutch, chain and tensioners. Vince said they would asses the engine condition for crack pipe and sensors - better start saving up!

I have been searching for short runner intake advise any advantage here for a normally aspirated engine? can't find much.

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afaik it's actully a disadvantage to run a shortrunner intake manifold (due to loss of torque) - the forced induction boys do it due to the increased amounts of air pipework in the engine bay and to keep the inlet tract as short as possible to avoid turbo lag.

 

if you want to change the inlet you're much better off considering a schrick VGI manifold...

(alternatively, you could of course consider a 24v engine which came with a VGI manifold as standard! :norty: )

 

glad you're happy with the car by the way - hurry up and get some pics up!

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Hi Pete - thanks for that think I would consider a schrick VGI manifold but they are not cheep! and difficult to come by - a new engine is a bit of a step for me just now!!

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Got my car booked in at Stealth this morning for next year. Going to have chains, clutch, 263 cams and head rebuild. Vince said he would check the condition of any other parts that might need replaced - I got a good deal getting all the work done at once. I asked about a Schrick manifold he said that in their experience the cam and manifold don't work that well together as they are working on similar areas of the engine - couldn't afford it anyway!

 

Thanks again for all of the advice!!

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Got a couple of pic of my car as promised - not great pics as in the garage, it was snowing outside and took ages to get her parked!

Think I I have got a few bits I will post on the parts section when I get them back from the paint shop. The splitter was in good order and a few badges.

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