G6O Idle Problem - No loss of power!

[G60 ASH 0]

Hello everyone,

 

Happy new year :-)

 

Haven't been on here for a while, but was hoping some of you guys maybe able to shed some light on my G60's problem.

 

Started to get a fluctuating idle on my G60 a few weeks ago, so replaced the 'blue' sender all was good for a few days, then it started again so got another one assuming it could be faulty the problem is still there. It starts to jump about when the car gets warm. Its alright for say five seconds then tips down to 400rpm jumps back up almost cuts out but doesn't quite. When driving it hesitates on/off the throttle if pushed lightly particularly bad in 5th at around 40mph. The car stinks of fuel too but there is little if no power loss. If i remove the 'blue' sender with the engine running it cuts out after about 10seconds.

 

What i have done so far.

 

>> Replaced 'blue' sender twice

>> New ECU to manifold hose 1m long in rubber!

>> Battery & alternator test to make sure 12v is being fed at all times to ECU

>> Cleaned out ISV (replaced 5yrs ago)

>> New dizzy + rotar arm

 

What else I think it could be - yeah or nay?

 

>> Throttle position switch (TPS)

>> Hall sender in distributor

>> Bad earths on ECU / Battery to gearbox (Throttle body to coil is good)

 

oh I have also disconnected my lamoda probe & re-synch the ECU to run without but problem is still here...so not the lamoda probe i don't think.

 

Any ideas what it could be? any help/advice would be greatly appreciated :-)

 

cheers

 

ash

[Richardshoes 0]

Happy New Year mate.

Static and ignition timing ok?

Go round all sensors that supply the ecu with information and do the checks outlined in the Bentley Manual.

[G60 ASH 0]

I will check, i just assumed if the timing was out the car wouldn't go as well as it does, can it just go out of synch? sorry bit of an amateur :-)

Might replace the ECU relay while i'm at it.

 

Thanks for your help!

[Supercharged 2]

Here's something to try.... let it warm up until the problem occurs, then unplug the BTS and plug in the old sensor if you can before it cuts out, this switches the engine back to the 'warm up' map...

 

If it them runs better with that sensor just hanging there then I would say it's either a CO POT issue or, more likely, the O2 sensor (Lambda) as this is the main sensor on the warm map.

[G60 ASH 0]

Thanks very much for that will give it a go tomorrow! (ref sender)

 

The lambda is unplugged at the moment, my friend got me to disconnect it rev the engine three times above 3,000rpm with the blue sender unplugged to synch the ECU to run without the Lambda, this seemed to fix the problem for about five minutes untill i drove the car then it started playing up again & the smell of fuel worsened. Could the Lambda still be at fault having down the above?

[Wastegate86 0]

may be worth checking

 

1) Vacuum pipe between ECU and the top nipple on the back of the throttle body. This needs to be EXACTLY 100cm long and have a good fitting at either end to seal it properly... this will give all sorts of nasty running and idling problems if it's wrong, torn, leaky or just generally crap...

 

2) Blue temp sender in the water flange on the front of the hose. This tells the ECU what temp the coolant is at. If it's broken, then the car will either run on choke all the time, or will never run on choke.. either way, it'll result in naff idle and flat spots...

 

3) Dead lambda sensor... this lives at the start of the cat pipe, the wiring is on the left hand side rear engine mount as you look from the front of the car... when this dies, you're car will feel flat and DRINK fuel... idle will also become lumpy due to over-fuelling...

 

4) air leak... If you have a leak in one of your boost pipes, intercooler or vacuum hoses, the ECU won't be getting reasonable signals and the engine won't run properly...

[G60 ASH 0]

Thankyou for that info I reed it earlier helpful stuff but all those things have been covered/checked (except lambda) so still scratching my head :-/

 

cheers

 

ash

[Supercharged 2]

My moneys on the lambda or dodgy wiring to it on the car side of the loom (look near rear engine mount)

 

But could be many other things -

 

As above, an air / vac leak

Idle screw come loose

Injector stuck open

Bad engine / sensor earth

Bad wiring - maybe to BTS or ISV

ISV not working - is it buzzing and is throttle closed switch clicking - check throttle cable if not

Bad ECU / Injector drivers

 

Hopefully the above will give you some ideas....

[Album56 0]

Is the idle airscrew still in place, they have a habit of getting loose as the rubber sealing ring perishes & then it vibrates out. My G60 was idling oddly turned out to be the airscrew was loose & just about to fall out, literally about half a turn from falling out. I think new ones are still available with sealing ring at the dealers part no 037133432 for a couple of pounds if you need one.

Mick

[G60 ASH 0]

Thanks for your help guys I will post up how i get on :-)

 

cheers

 

ash

[Album56 0]

Any update on this one G60ASH? Its benefits everyone if you update with what you found & how you fixed it.