Re: G60 flatspot/running rich/bad idle fixed

[leeeeshad 0]

please see last page

 

 

 

 

 

ok so its still taking ages to start, 20 seconds of turning over, then turn the ignition off and it starts if i try again, but starts fine once its warm any ideas :confused4:

 

 

original post Hi, my g60 takes 2 attempts to start from cold, I was told by the previous owner this was because he had blanked off the idle control valve to cure another problem, does this sound normal? and has anyone got a picture of the vavle so i know what im looking for.

 

cheers

 

lee

[leeeeshad 0]

Bump

[farrantino 0]

I think the valve is on top of the rocker cover (clylindrical type think), and the bad start and idle could be a temp switch.

 

Sean

[leeeeshad 0]

Iv just got a idle control valve/ISV from another g60 to replace the missing one on my car but when it's fitted the idle is allover the place and the car sounds horrible, does it take a while to settle down? I took it for a 5 min drive then removed it and blanked up the pipes as it was worse with the valve than without, any ideas? Apparently it worked fine on the car it came off.

[leeeeshad 0]

anyone?

[farrantino 0]

not 100% on the g60, but on my valver i had to re-adjust the idle speed screw on the TB to get it perfect. Also have you changed the fuel filters, as a dirty one wont allow the fuel to pass at low revs.

 

Good luck

Sean

[leeeeshad 0]

Its got a new filter on it, i replaced it monday, Iv cleaned the ISV

heres a video of it running, without the valve its steady at 1400ish

any ideas?

cheers

[leeeeshad 0]

Bump, any ideas?

[farrantino 0]

Are there any micro-switches on the TB ??

 

Sean

[leeeeshad 0]

Are there any micro-switches on the TB ??

 

Sean

 

yes, one for fully closed throttle and one fully open.

[farrantino 0]

yes, one for fully closed throttle and one fully open.

 

This happened on my valver, check that the fully closed isnt sticking on, ie. open and close the throttle to hear out for a slight "click" noise(while engine off).If not spray a little WD-40 on the switch, operate the throttle should loosen it off

 

same for the fully open switch.

 

 

Sean

[leeeeshad 0]

Both switches work fine, I'm thinking the isv could be dead, the engine is acting the same way as it did when one of the blanks where the isv should have been leaked.

[leeeeshad 0]

with the isv removed and the pipes blanked it idles at about 1300, and takes ages to start, but with the valve fitted its un driveable, any ideas?

cheers.

[farrantino 0]

strange !!!!!!

Disconnect the ISV and connect a 12v supply to see if the piston moves, also check the multiplug to make sure theres power going to it.

Have you cleaned the ISV, if so did you lube it :camp: lol,

 

Sean

[leeeeshad 0]

Thanks I'll check the voltages after work, I didn't lube it after cleaning, I couldn't work out how to take it apart lol

[farrantino 0]

Theres two jubilee clips that hold two pipes on, undo these and the ISV should be free, spray a sh*t load of carb cleaner in there, then a quick spray of 3in1 oil.

 

Sean

[leeeeshad 0]

Theres two jubilee clips that hold two pipes on, undo these and the ISV should be free, spray a sh*t load of carb cleaner in there, then a quick spray of 3in1 oil.

 

Sean

 

Its already off the car (I bought it seperatly) how do i take the valve its self appart?

[farrantino 0]

Theres two jubilee clips that hold two pipes on, undo these and the ISV should be free, spray a sh*t load of carb cleaner in there, then a quick spray of 3in1 oil.

 

Sean

 

Its already off the car (I bought it seperatly) how do i take the valve its self appart?

 

You dont take the isv apart, all you do is spray carb cleaner through it, let it sit then pore out, then a quick spray of 3in1 oil to lubricate the mech inside.

 

Sean

[leeeeshad 0]

all works now its lubed :D but not the idle is really high, can i a just it with the grub screw in the end of the isv? i moved it a bit when i was trying to get the valve working so that probably isnt helping.

[leeeeshad 0]

1st post updated

[law262 0]

Mine has this problem, i believe its ISV/ECU related. My work around is to switch the headlights on dipped before it starts. This seems to open the ISV up so it allows more air to pass into the manifold.

 

or maybe my ISV just needs adjusting.

[leeeeshad 0]

Okay so i tried re fitting the ISV again, the idle is rough and it almost sounds like is misfiring, on slight throttle when driving it jerks about, but when i floor it it seams to pull okay? without the ISV (both pipes blocked off and the ISV sitting in the house) the idle is stable but falls from 1300 down to about 800 when stationery, and theres sometimes a flatspot when accelerating hard at 2800-4000ish rpm but that only seams to happen when iv been crusing at a constant speed like on the motorway, not when im driving down the lanes, im not sure if thats still there when the ISV if fitted as i only took it out for 5 miles, i tested the ISV out of the car, it open when i put 12v into it, but it dosent seal compleatly when nothing is applied (i can bloe through it)

 

Anyone have any ideas? G werks is a 5 hour round trip from here so id like to avoid it if i can

Thanks

Lee

[law262 0]

what resistance is your co pot set to? set it to 500 and retry.

[leeeeshad 0]

what resistance is your co pot set to? set it to 500 and retry.

 

Whats the CO pot and how do i adjust it?

 

thanks

[leeeeshad 0]

what resistance is your co pot set to? set it to 500 and retry.

 

Whats the CO pot and how do i adjust it?

 

thanks

 

bump :)