Bruceybaby 0 Posted February 21, 2010 Just about had it with this car :bang: Can anyone advise? Since buying this car, the temp warning light will intermittently flash, but the needle would stay at 90 I've always checked things over, and found everything to be ok and just topped the coolant up a touch when this has happened. So last night i decided to take the car a wee run as she hadn't moved in a few weeks. After a mile, the temp light starts flashing and the water temp slowly creeped above 90. oil temp was at 100. sitting idling, the temp slowly raised to 110, and oil temp at 112. It was late and i had no tools. but under a streetlight i checked all the connections. The yellow/brown sensor on the oil cooler was covered in oil so i cleaned up the contacts. The fan did not cut in at any point. so i drove her home. This morning with everything cooled down, i topped up the coolant which took about 2 litres. removed and reconnected all the sensors and noticed a very small drip from the coolant pipe which connects to the block under the distributor and connects to the bottom of the expansion tank at the oher end. I took the cap off and run the car up to temp at idle. occasionally holding the car at 2k. i pressed top and bottom pipes to rid any airlocks and checked the return pipe for water flow. the bottom hose did get hot as the car got up to temp and the fan kicked in at the appropriate time, Water and oil temp remained constant. Internal heater runs hot and cold as settings should be. However, despite everything working, the temp light was still flashing. So i took the car out for a drive, and once again water and oil temp shot up to 110 and 112 respectively, when i pulled in the fan was not running and steam was escaping form the slight leak on the block I mentioned earlier. Thermostat must have opened as both pipes were hot again. What could be causing this? I have a black cap, which im sure are notorious for pressure issues, but i dont see how either that or the slight leak could stop the fan from switching on when driving and i dont see how the fan could cut in at idle at the right time, but not when driving. Cheers Brucewas not running and steam was escaping form the slight leak on the block Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted February 21, 2010 You need to buy a blue cap asap - should have been changed years ago! You also need to fix the leak before looking any further as the cooling system needs to be pressurised to work properly. It's obviously leaking loads at the moment but what are you topping up with? (system needs to be at least 30% G12+/++ to work properly) When testing again I would unplug the tank connector and bridge it, this will tell you if the tank sensor is faulty or not. Next I'd look at the rad-fan thermoswitch, it's a 2 stage switch and it may be not working at one of those stages hence the fan not kicking in. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bruceybaby 0 Posted February 21, 2010 Cheers mate. Will get to stealers tomorrow and sort out a blue cap. Could you elaborate on 'bridging' please, read this re testing the thermoswitch too. Just a bit of cable and stick in the slots on the multi-plug yeah? My back can't deal with much more leanin over a bay lol, I'll take it to my mates garage and get him to sort the leak. I don't wanna use radweld incase in clog the matrix or sumit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted February 21, 2010 Yeah don't use radweld... Bridging is just joining the connectors - just use a paper clip for the plug on the tank... there may not be anything wrong bu the way, it only need to be a couple of cm under the max mark for the low level light to flash and this won't go out even after topping up until you restart the engine. The ran fan switch (near the battery) supplies volts to the fan so you really need to make up a wire to bridge this properly Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bruceybaby 0 Posted February 21, 2010 cool is this the switch on the radiator itself on battery side sort of opposit P/S bottle or is it the switch on the back of the fan? Thanks for your help mate Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bruceybaby 0 Posted February 28, 2010 Had the hose replaced and all is working fine. Thanks for your help! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted February 28, 2010 Nice - cheap fix then! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bruceybaby 0 Posted March 1, 2010 I wish . . . . .Been off work with a back problem so i was unable to do the work myself. My mate took it into his garage but unfortunately it overheated on the way. long story short. the garage (his boss) charged me 140 all in, including the cost of towing it 7 miles :censored: I now have the stereo to fix. the alarm sensitivity and the scuttle panel water leak. :help: Feeling like selling it tbh, everytime i buy a corrado i get these annoting little issues and they cost me a fortune :gag: :cuckoo: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
