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mimjed

throttle position sensor, whos clued up then?

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i have very little knowledge about the tps, but believe it is what is causing my problems.

 

idle constantly goes up and down between 1000 rpm and around 1450 rpm.

 

when on full throttle there is a funky sounding high pitched noise and the old girl doesnt really go anywhere.

 

anywhere inbetween the two and it drives normally.

 

so how do i test it? or can anyone tell me what its doing/not doing?

 

also a pic of the correct order for the cables would be a massive help. its been put on spade connectors, which may be part of the problem to be honest.

 

so if anyone has one of these plugs or knows of another one that will fit it, yes please.

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mine was stuck in one pos , it was full of crud from the body , set for 3000rpm .

 

yours is doing the same thing so you might have the same crud in yours

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Sounds like you have the WOT and IDLE microswitches wired in round the wrong way.

 

Idle MS is at position/pin 1 on the plug on the TB, should be a red wire with a blue stripe.

WOT MS is at position/pin 3 on the plug on the TB, should be a blue wire with a black stripe.

Earth is at poition/pin 2 on the plug on the TB, should be a green wire.

 

As for a new plug to fit, you will need terminals, sealing boot and a plug.

 

The plug is part number 443 906 233.

A set of repair wires complete with crimps is 000 979 021 E.

The sealing boot is 191 906 102.

 

Should be no more than £25 inc VAT for that lot from VW.

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Hmm from memory, stuck at work.

 

Blue and brown 1

White and brown 2

Red 3

 

Is how mine is. I will take a pic later.

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didnt do great with the colour guesses :lol:

 

2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf23042010228[1].jpg[/attachment:3d6rv9ug]

 

as far as if it was ever an auto or not i dont know. engine was from a scrappy with no gearbox. heres a pic of the top of throttle body.

 

23042010230[1].jpg[/attachment:3d6rv9ug]

 

cheers for replies

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Does not look like an auto throttle body (although the TPS will be on the underside)

 

Wiring sequence is good although the idle M/S wire may not be making contact. Try removing the red wire with a blue stripe and see if the idle changes, it should.

 

The other thing to check is that the ISV is buzzing/vibrating when you touch it, with the engine in the run position on the ignition key but not started you should be able to feel the ISV buzzing.

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Isv has recently been replaced so believe it to be good.

 

Red wire removed and it revs its balls off, around 4k.

 

Will try for a pic underneath then. Think im going to have to get a sparky to look at it.

 

Thank you for reply

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Isv has recently been replaced so believe it to be good.

 

Red wire removed and it revs its balls off, around 4k.

 

Will try for a pic underneath then. Think im going to have to get a sparky to look at it.

 

Thank you for reply

 

Damn that's high!

 

Is your boost return linkage on the throttle body working?

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yes and no, as far as im aware that is.

 

i dont run boost return but i do pipe it back in from the isv to a t piece. i run without lambda probe to compensate fueling.

 

unless im not twigging what you mean. throttle body coming off on thurs and gunna clean the fook out of it, check butterfly too. but im convinced its electrical.

 

i have noticed though, it does not do it from start up until you press the accelerator. but still idels at 1300 ish.

 

i did brick it when i took the red wire off, crammed it back on as fast as i could :lol:

 

forgot about taking photo of underneath. memory seems to be getting worse.

 

on a slighlty posative note a bloke at a local garage had absolutely no clue what i was talking about or even what a g60 was. so he said if i take it down next week he will try and diagnose free of charge.

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The boost return linkage is a butterfly valve that operates from open to closed when the throttle pedal is pressed (ie fully open when at idle and fully shut near to full throttle)

 

If this linkage is broken/sticky then that would explain the 4k rev spike, there is no way that the revs should go up past 1250rpm with the idle M/S wire removed.

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ill pull it to pieces then and see what i can spot.

 

could be on the ball to be honest as its killing full throttle too.

 

cheers dude

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butterfly working as it should do :(

 

heres a pic of underneath. no tps then

 

30042010235.jpg[/attachment:3e953xt3]

 

only thing i did notice was a small sort of wire (?) coming out from where the orange circle is. this doesnt quite touch the square peg that it seems its aiming for? should it?

 

throttle body seems clean (havnt cleaned anything), and inlet manifold too....

passat climatronic wiring diags.pdf30042010236.jpg[/attachment:3e953xt3]

climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdf30042010237.jpg[/attachment:3e953xt3]

 

dont know where to go with it now. and as always when youre doing one thing you find at least one more problem. god i love old cars.

 

a nut has vanished from the four branch, and this rather yummy looking stuff.... need a new gasket from the block to the housing.

 

2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf30042010234.jpg[/attachment:3e953xt3]

 

i rechecked today and with just red wire off, or all three wires off it idles at 3.5k i guess this points back to electrics.

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well after a shed load of investigation, (at least i know so much of the car is in full working order :lol: ) turned out to be a bad inlet manifold gasket.

 

was found by using a smoke test. replaced and everything is back to normal. happy days.

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well after a shed load of investigation, (at least i know so much of the car is in full working order :lol: ) turned out to be a bad inlet manifold gasket.

 

was found by using a smoke test. replaced and everything is back to normal. happy days.

 

Hi, howd u do a smoke test? ive been having similar problems with my valver. Changed lots of bits with no luck. mine could be a similar issue?

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its quite possible that it could be. unless you have the kit, the same i did take it to a garage and ask them to do it.

 

it just pumps smoke into the air intake and then you watch for leaks. handy on a g60 to check the boost pipes too.

 

think rmoving the mani on a 16v is pretty straight forward, new gasket about £13 and a tube of gasket sealer about £5. might cost more for the test so maybe youre best off just chnging it in the first place to eliminate it.

 

hope that helps

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Ah, i see, okies, thanks.

why? you gunna hold a flare next to the air filter or something? :lol:[/quote:1a22kfuq]

 

Haha, no, gonna chong a massive biff into the intake. :grin:

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Ah, i see, okies, thanks.

why? you gunna hold a flare next to the air filter or something? :lol:[/quote:37aes7ta]

 

Haha, no, gonna chong a massive biff into the intake. :grin:[/quote:37aes7ta]

Smokin! :afro:

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