Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
psiburr

G60 problems ?! NOW FIXED !!

Recommended Posts

How easy is it to replace the wires from the isv to the ecu on a G60 ? Is it just plugged or does it need the ecu opened and soldered ? Also where's the best place to buy them ? 90% sure that this is the cause of my erratic idle ( with no loss of power when driving other than chugging when off throttle ) as it runs much much better with it disconnected.

I've cleaned and tried 2 different isv's, replaced the switches on the throttle body, new plugs and leads, replaced both water sensors, sorted the timing, replaced the vacuum pipe from the TB, adjusted the idle screw and had the lambda checked all with no improvement :bad-words:

I'm guessing it's the wire cos it runs over the engine and I've heard is prone to heat damage ?!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Gonna try and tackle it tomorrow but would appreciate any advice before I get the wipers and scuttle off.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ecu doesnt need to be cracked open, just the loom that clips into it. Pain in the ass t get at.

 

Im changing the ignition wires to mine on tues.

 

If you happen to know of a bt engineer they have kit to find where the break is in the cable.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Other than starting from cold ( in this weather it starts first time ) any down side to just running it with the isv unplugged ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Other than starting from cold ( in this weather it starts first time ) any down side to just running it with the isv unplugged ?

 

I hope not, mine dosent have one (well it does, but it runs like crap with it so its in the boot)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just need your adrizzle so I can sizzle the pizzle :scratch:

 

Should have come with the email from paypay :cuckoo: i'll PM it now

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Going to rewire the isv-ecu today as I'm querying a break somewhere :pale: very little knowledge of these things but I'm assuming I'll just need 2 similar wires and some solder ?! I've done searches ( not much to be found on this ) but any advice would be GREATLY appreciated !! :help:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have you checked your Vac hoses? I had a very similar problem that was sorted when I replaced the 2" hose from the ISV to the Manifold it had a large split in it, I would also recommend cleaning out your ISV with throttle body cleaner.

 

Also don't replace the ISV wiring without doing a continuity check with a meter between the ISV end and the ECU end of the wiring, take it to an auto electrics specialist if your not sure.

 

Cheers

 

Dan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the reply bud. I've replaced vac pipes, spark plugs + leads, 2 isv's, throttle body switches, water temp sensors, timing etc etc !!

Thing is, with the isv unplugged it runs sweet as ?!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

took one look at the ECU and pussied out :lol: off to an auto electrician me thinks. what else could it be though if it runs great with the ISV unplugged ?!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Update.

 

Really winding me up now !! I disconnected the isv, ran fine for a while then started nearly cutting out again. I then deleted the isv, ran fine for a couple of days then started again ! now it's worse than ever and sounds like it's cutting out when the throttle's only slightly open ( with a faint "papping" noise like a machine gun ) and then lurches forward and drives normally for a minute or two before doing it all again :(

Next stop ECU ? Any advice would be very very welcome !!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

where does the papping noise come from? any chance of a vid of it doing it?

 

have you had a look at the vac pipe inside the ecu to the map sensor?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The papping comes from the exhaust but I've also noticed a whistle from the alternator/charger area :( things like chitty chitty bang bang at the mo !! It's actually cutting out now so I'm in break down territory. The TB-ecu vac pipe was replaced but not sure about the ecu-map , where would I find that ? It still runs well foot down which really confuses me ?! When it's papping I have to wait for the power to come back unless I give it some beans then it jerks to life and runs properly. I'll get I video up later today of it with the hood up and faltering. Thanks for your imput dude, I'm really getting nowhere here. I'm gonna call Darren at Gwerks again later, he's been talking me through but still no progress.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The vac hose from mani to ecu plugs into it. Open ecu and you cant miss it. Could well be worth plugging in another ecu for elimination purposes.

 

So the papping noise comes from behind you? Have you checked fuel pump and fuel lines?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

HAHAHAHA !!!! just had a fantastic auto electrician come round and fix my car !! doesn't want to be recomended on here cos he's got too much work already !

Turned out to be a faulty fuel pump relay, resoldered and now running sweet as. Thanks for all your help guys :clap: hope this can help someone else in the future ?!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...