Stubborn track rod ends, removal tips

[flc 0]

Hi

I'm trying to change the track rod ends, but can i get them off? NO. :scratch:

 

Anyone got any tips on removing them wnen they're proper rusted on?

 

Cheers

[harryc 0]

Big feckin club hammer always works for me :dorky:

[harryc 0]

Do you mean the nut or the ball joint in the track rod end?

[herisites 0]

It's all about leverage! If it's proper rusted on though you may need to heat it up to get it off :gag:

[flc 0]

Big feckin club hammer always works for me :dorky:

 

Allready tried this one :D

 

Do you mean the nut or the ball joint in the track rod end?

 

I mean actually removing the whole thing from the arm..I had to cut the nut of the bottom :)

 

It's all about leverage! If it's proper rusted on though you may need to heat it up to get it off :gag:

 

I'll give this a go next..

[andy 0]

I've just done this, loads of plusgas, wirebrush on the threads/join between nut and TRE. I used some heat, all be it only boiling water and it released. Proper on there though. I am stuck with a seized nut on one side now though! Grrr. Out with the gas torch I think!

[mimjed 0]

diesel works incredibly well for seized threads, bit of heat first and then give it a little soak.

 

should come off with a couple of thumps from a hammer then.

[PhatVR6 0]

Heat is the only thing that will shift them. I have tried every type if penetrating oil under the sun, diesel, the lot, nothing works as well as a good old blow torch. Buy a proper plumbers MAPP one with a piezo igniter. Might set you back £45 but you will wish you'd bought one years ago. I cannot remember the last time I was defeated by a stubborn nut/bolt.

 

Just be careful you don't heat too near the actual ball joint area, as you can boil the grease, which causes the joint to pop off like a bullet.

[Rob_B 0]

Blow torch from halfords for £10 will do nicely. Takes minutes if u get it nice and hot

[flc 0]

Thanks everyone

Seems like the blow torch is the way to go

 

I'll let you know how i get on

[Toad 0]

Hold a lump hammer against the back of the casting, and hit the front with another hammer, hard. Also some leverage helping to lift the tapered part out of the casting will help.

 

And for heat, an oxy acetylene cutting torch is the way to go.

[Roger Blassberg 0]

There's a releasing agent called " Rost-off Ice" made by Wurth; as the name suggests it freezes the joint and cracks the rust, allowing the penetrant to do its work. It's worked for me.

 

I'm always wary of using heat - certainly an oxy-acetylene torch is a bit too much in inexperienced hands as you can start melting things fairly quickly. The fire risk is a bit worrying too, and the heat soaks into all sorts of places you would rather didn't get hot. Then there's potential changes to metallurgy and distortion. Blacksmithery belongs to the steam engine age!

 

Best wishes

 

RB