Newbie front brake disks and pad change question

[VWVW 1]

I have never done a front brake disks and pad removal before…but after reading from the knowledge base I thought I will give it a ago.

 

After several attempt in trying to remove the caliper carrier bolts yesterday without any success. I decided to take it to a garage and got them to loosen all the carrier bolts for me instead as they were bloody tight !!! Then I got it home jacked it up and started to work on it.

 

Got a few questions during my work in progress…

 

Q1 How are the brake pads held onto the callipers? I normally inspect it and take pictures etc…but they all fell out once the calipers were open so didn’t get a chance to check. Are they suppose to just fall out ? see pic below

 

Q2 There is a metal circular piece that goes into the caliper piston. Is this to hold the brakes pads in place ? What is it ? see pic with blue arrow

 

Q3 The red rod in the picture. Is this an aftermarket piece of item. If it is do you know from which manufacturer ?

 

thanks in advance

 

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[beastie4126 0]

Q1 How are the brake pads held onto the callipers? I normally inspect it and take pictures etc…but they all fell out once the calipers were open so didn’t get a chance to check. Are they suppose to just fall out ? see pic below

 

Ans: The brake caliper holds them in and they should have long spring clips at the top of them

 

Q2 There is a metal circular piece that goes into the caliper piston. Is this to hold the brakes pads in place ? What is it ? see pic with blue arrow

 

Ans: looks like an anti rattle shim to me - stops brakes from squealing (supposed to anyway). Fits inbetween caliper and pad.

 

Q3 The red rod in the picture. Is this an aftermarket piece of item. If it is do you know from which manufacturer ?

 

Ans: It is a tie rod and I suspect it is probably VW standard fitting, just someone has been busy with the red Hammerite.

 

you might want to have a look here http://wiki.the-corrado.net/front_brake ... guide.html

[VWVW 1]

Ans: The brake caliper holds them in and they should have long spring clips at the top of them

 

Cheers for the quick reply

 

I did read the knowledge base before attempting disks and brake removal :) Mine definately doesnt have the long spring clips at all. Maybe that explains why the pads just fell out. Can you still get them from VW?

 

 

Ans: looks like an anti rattle shim to me - stops brakes from squealing (supposed to anyway). Fits inbetween caliper and pad.

 

Does everyone else have this over their caliper piston. I think I recall from seeing other caliper piston pics that there is just a round top that goes over the caliper piston instead?

[Jon_vr6 1]

Look at one of the pads mate and at one edge there will be a clip type thing which pivots this clip holds the pad in place when the caliper is pushed onto it

 

Ive never seen that metal bit over the piston before BUT that might explain when i had 280mm brakes they would squeel all the time so i would leave them one personally

[RW1 0]

Front pads.

When you put them back, rest the pads on the carrier frames either side of the disc. Use a dab of Copper Ease and lightly smear at all points the caliper contacts the pad's backing plates (Prevents squeal).

 

Gently and slowly push the caliper piston back in a little with the bleed valve open (catch the fluid with a brake bleeder or a rag). Fit the anti-squeal shim ("metal circular piece"), yes its fitted to mine and is on ETKA as standard. Then put the top bolt (with a dab of thread lock on the tip end) in to secure the caliper and carrier together but don't tighten. Now swing the caliper down and the pads will be held. (No long spring clips at the top if VW.)

 

Finally put in the bottom bolt (with a dab of thread lock on the tip)

 

Tighten top and bottom bolts to 35Nm (25lbft).

 

Bleed off the caliper and close up. Top up brake fluid reservoir as required.

 

(NB: Reversing caliper pistons on the Corrado without relieving the back pressure created in the feed pipes by using the winding tool has been known to blow the ABS valves and cause permanent damage. So do open the bleed valve so no back pressure builds up, applies front or rear calipers.)

[VWVW 1]

cheers guys for the replies

 

Glad that no long spring clips is needed as mine doesnt have one :)

 

Only thing I am not sure now is how the anti squeal shim is suppose to link up with the pads... It all fell apart before I had a chance to take a look. If any one has any pics on how its suppose to sit will be much appreciated. If not I will try and work it out tomorrow.

 

I will bare in mind to open the bleed nipple before winding back the caliper piston...

 

with a dab of thread lock on the tip end

 

I dont have any thread lock grease. I am gonna use some copper grease instead. Suppose that will do ?

[fla 9]

No, thread lock and copper grease are two opposite functions! Copper grease will prevent seizing (and in this case reduce squeeling), whilst threadlock stops screws working loose. Its like a weak glue, so to speak.

[mimjed 0]

i put copper grease on my carrier bolts rather than loctite. for how often they come off it makes sense to me.

[VWVW 1]

Generally can copper grease be applied to the threads on the bolts to stop bolts from seizing up in the future. But in this instance it is not recommended on the carrier bolts but to use thread lock instead...Sorry if the answer is obvious can you tell I am newbie at this :)

[Supercharged 2]

As above those shims are standard and should be fitted to all cars - I've tried pads with a backing where it says to remove the shim and they have squeeled so I would always fit them.

 

i put copper grease on my carrier bolts rather than loctite. for how often they come off it makes sense to me.

 

That's fine on the carrier bolts (as long as they are torqued correctly) but it's the caliper to carrier ones that come with thread lock on - you must either replace these with new ones (pads come with 2) or re-apply threadlock.

 

The most important thing to remember on an ABS car is what RW1 has said above, open the bleed nipple to prevent ABS valve damage - the amount of garages that don't even realise this is unbelievable!

[VWVW 1]

That's fine on the carrier bolts (as long as they are torqued correctly) but it's the caliper to carrier ones that come with thread lock on - you must either replace these with new ones (pads come with 2) or re-apply threadlock.

 

Thanks for the reply....

 

I have new genuine VW pads and they did come with 2x caliper to carrier bolts. Ahh that explains why the tip of the bolt is green ish in colour. That will be the thread lock stuff...cheers.

[Supercharged 2]

Yeah they come pre-coated, if you need another 2 then they are pennies from VW or £1 for 4 from Halfords.

[davidwort 0]

the anti-squeal plate also acts as a heat shield for the caliper piston, so worth making sure they are in there

 

couple of other things, I always file the rust off the carrier where the pad backing touches, to ensure the pads free off from the disk when not being used

I'd also extract the slider pins in the carrier, clean and re-grease, making sure they're not corroded and move freely too.

 

think the wiki article could do with a little expanding...

[VWVW 1]

couple of other things, I always file the rust off the carrier where the pad backing touches, to ensure the pads free off from the disk when not being used

I'd also extract the slider pins in the carrier, clean and re-grease, making sure they're not corroded and move freely too.

 

I agree with you. Yeah I got myself some wire brush and brake cleaner...Its already had some rub down since the picture was taken. Iam also gonna tidy around the area with some POR15 paint whilts I have the wheel off etc.

 

Will normal LM grease do for the slider pins ?

[davidwort 0]

to be honest I don't know, I used some CV grease I had lying around

 

updated/added the WIKI from the old knowledge base

try this article now

[VWVW 1]

updated/added the WIKI from the old knowledge base

try this article now

 

Cheers for summarising all the extra info into the wiki page. I've now printed a copy for reference. Gives you that extra confidence with the task ahead.

 

I ve seen your really helpful step by step guide thread also with regards to doing the rear disk, pads and bearing. I will be doing that next time on on mine after sorting the fronts.

[davidwort 0]

I've been adding more info this morning, anything else anyone thinks of please feel free to register and edit the WIKI :)

[markrtw 0]

LM grease is fine for the pins.

 

One suggestion for the wiki - when the old discs are removed, clean up/wire brush the hubs, as if they have an uneven surface it may lead to the new discs warping. (I once had this on a golf where the front left kept warping. Asked my mechanic where I was going wrong and he said that he bet money on it being a rough hub. I cleaned it up and never had the issue return).

[VWVW 1]

All was going so well...

 

1. Slider pins in the carrier, clean and re-greased – checked

 

2. File the rust off the carrier where the pad backing touches, to ensure the pads free off from the disk when - not being used - checked

 

3. Wire brushed all the bolts – Checked

 

4. Wired brush the splash guard and gave it a coating of Black POR15 - Checked

 

 

Only one hold up I can see…The bleed nipple doesn’t look too healthy. May have problems opening up before pushing the pistons back :(

 

Everything is on hold at the moment. May have to get a Refurb kit for the callipers and start reading up on how to change brake fluid etc before I can go any further…….Dont know about anyone else. Any work on the Corrado seems to take so long. There are always hurdles to overcome.

[RW1 0]

Right tools go a long way :)

 

Using a brake spanner on the bleed valves ? If not, recommended to prevent rounding. Also put a rag round the valve soaked in easing oil for the night.

 

.

[VWVW 1]

Right tools go a long way

Using a brake spanner on the bleed valves ? If not, recommended to prevent rounding. Also put a rag round the valve soaked in easing oil for the night.

 

My tool collection is already starting to build up :) that the scary bit. Never knew one existed for the specific job will have a look.

 

I could have taken the job to be done by a garage less hasssle and pocket will be lighter no doubt but then I will never know how it was done...Going through the process and finding out from this forum is great for when you have to do it again in the future.

[RW1 0]

My tool collection is already starting to build up :) that the scary bit. Never knew one existed for the specific job will have a look.

 

Its a common enough special spanner to find at Halfords or a good motor factors, 10mm/11mm. When you see it you will see why. Its head is designed and made not to flex like an ordinary ring or open end spanner will. Had one for years and just give it a good sharp jolt, rather than a slow turn on the bleed valve and it will open. Do this by holding the spanner in place at the valve end with one hand and jolt 1/8th turn with the other hand. Just make sure the spanner is squarely on the valves spanner flats with them in the middle of the spanner heads body.

 

When you replace the valves ;) , put a little Copper Ease on the upper part of the valve's threads that will be in the caliper body. This will help keep out moisture. And when tightened up (no specified torque, suggest 10 lb ft.) after bleeding, wipe Copper Ease round the exposed bleed valve threads onto the surrounding caliper body to form a water tight seal.

 

.

[davidwort 0]

good on you for attempting all this, nothing magical, it just takes time and care (that your garage probably wouldn't bother with)

if you want to bleed the brakes I can really recommend the Gunsons Eezibleed kit, just a bottle that connects to the top of your brake fluid reservoir and is pressurised from a car tyre valve, makes it a one man job and no chance of getting any air trapped in the caliper.

Halfords do them, so do Screwfix and most other motor factors, around 16-20 quid.

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/33881/Van ... ibleed-Kit

[VWVW 1]

Just an update on this...

 

Got the specific brake spanner for the caliper bleed valve but looks like the bleed valve has rusted beyond normal "shape" to get a good grip on it. (I ve tried to file it down to shape and used an adjustable spanner. Its no good :( )

 

As I cannot open the bleeed valve to wind back the caliper. I will have to put all the old brake disks and pads back in again to get myself mobile for the time being unil I can think of plan B.

 

I suspect the other caliper bleed valves will be in a similar state. I think my option is to source a set of second hand front VR6 brake calipers and get them cleaned etc and refurbished using a caliper repair kit (anyone know where I can get a caliper repair kit from ?)

[markrtw 0]

Just buy some replacement bleed valves, give the existing ones a good soaking overnight in WD40 (or better) and then get medieval on them with mole grips or Erwin bolt grippers to remove them. Then use the new ones.