VR6 Lee - Corrado VR6 Storm Mystic Blue Build thread

[OSV 0]

not having much luck with pics not seen a thing yet

[Jon_vr6 1]

Email the pic to me lee

[Dox 22]

Was just thinking about my car and was wondering why it does not accept a full tank of fuel, for some reason when it gets to about 3/4 full it starts clicking like mad, does my head in. my bro will vouch for this problem as he couldn't stop laughing while i had petrol all over my feet..

 

Mine does this too, I find its better if you have the nozzle upside down so the feed pipe is vertical, even then it won't take full flow, most of the time I give up (

[OSV 0]

perhaps its full and the gauge inaccurate?

[Dox 22]

perhaps its full and the gauge inaccurate?

 

It does it to a degree even when empty, I have to suppress the speed the pump fills at with the trigger, smooth and slow is the way to go. I've never had a problem with any other VW

[Jon_vr6 1]

[VR6 Lee 0]

Few pictures from my trip to Cat and fiddle the other day. Not been for ages, bit annoyed at the 50 zone average speed cameras!!! grrrr!!!!

 

 

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Right back to business, ever since I bought the VR, it still has a problem with the fans kicking in to early and all the time.

 

1st stage is kicking in at 82 degrees

2nd stage at 89 degrees

 

From a test at DG the temprature is reading correct around the engine so where would you start to diagnose the problem and has this happened to you lot.

 

What is the normal running temprature of the vr and what degrees do your fans kick in at.

Edited August 29, 2011 by VR6 Lee

[RW1 0]

Have you changed the radiator thermal switch unit near the battery? They cost about £20+ish at the dealers but chubnut9999 (GPC) on EBAY sells them (genuine VW marked) occassionally. About half price.

 

Out the other day on a run from the A555 down the A34/Alderley Edge bypass to Holmes Chapel, then Congleton, then A34 back to Alderly Edge, 50mph to 70mph generally. Outside temp was 17'C. Water dash dial sat at 93'C, oil 104'C but if pushed it rose to 110'C. No fans on the move I could detect. Parked up after 1.5 hours, rad fans were not on. Water temp rose slowly from 93'C to 109'C over about 5 mins on the dash dial at which point stage 1 rad fan kicked in and brought the temp down to 104'C. Oil temp at this point stayed static at 104'C At that stage with the fan just knocked off, drove off and it dropped inside a couple of miles to 93'C, oil dropped to 100'C, drving at a steady 40mph.

 

Another day recently, motorway at a steady 70mph after 2 hours reaches 106'C on oil, water sat at 93'C. Outside air was 20'C. If pushed or on an incline, the oil will rise to 110'C and then drop back to 104'C/106'C after easing up or cresting the motorway climb. Water dial rises slightly to 96'C when the oil temp. is at 110'C

 

(All since fixing the oil filter blockage in June as per another topic - Link )

 

Never had stage 2 on for as long as I can remember. Engine doesn't feel hot and is cold on top if bonnet is lifted straight away, only gets hot after 10 mins due to the rising engine block heat. Ticks over smoothly, no missing beats and does 33mpg indicated/brim to brim checked. Exhaust pipe is more or less clean if wiped with a finger inside the tailpipe. Thats how its been since I bought it.

 

Stop engine and rad fan only comes on if the water temp is up at 95'C - 100'C due to standing in traffic just prior to stopping the engine. If below 95'C, no after run fan.

 

Aux. water pump runs all the time.

 

Emissions - MoT's return fast idle @ 2,500 rpm as CO - 0.00% to 0.02%, HC - 2ppm to 15ppm, idle @ 680 rpm CO - 0.00% (MoT's 1998 - 2010)

 

Runs on exclusively Texaco 97RON unleaded, Castrol Magnatec 15w40 since Sept.2000, factory standard NGK spark plugs and standard paper air filter. 44,107 miles to date.

 

.

Edited August 29, 2011 by RW1

[James. 7]

Isn't there a thermal switch that cuts in at a lower temp ( mk4 unit? ). Has one of these been fitted ?

[RW1 0]

Isn't there a thermal switch that cuts in at a lower temp ( mk4 unit? ). Has one of these been fitted ?

Not on the Corrado.

 

3 thermal switches in the system. Stage 1 & 2 on the radiator by the battery, Stage 3 in the thermostat housing and afterrun fan on, also in the thermostat housing.

 

Stage 1 fan does not use the fan controller unit, it directly switches the stage 1 fan ON, Red wire with White stripe.

Which is why I asked about the radiator stage 1 & 2 thermal switch in the radiator sidewall at the battery being changed.

 

.

 

ETA: Golf Mk3 & 4

Only differences are: Mk3 Stage 1 fan is driven via the fan controller. Mk4 fans as Mk3 but both rad fans are motorised.

No under temp fan or sensor. Both have after-run fan circuits and aux. electrical water pumps.

Edited August 29, 2011 by RW1

[VR6 Lee 0]

Cheers RW1!!

 

I don't think anything has been changed but why would the thermal switch be the problem, I would think it would be one of the senders in the thermo housing.

 

 

 

Has anyone got a schematic diagram of the cooling system of a corrado vr6 as in the bentley manual the only one they have is for the valver/g60

[RW1 0]

The reason is because as above Stage 1 & 2 are controlled by the thermal switch in the rad wall by the battery tray corner.

 

The ones in the thermostat housing control:

 

-the Stage 3 (and you will know thats on!)

 

- the after-run fan when you switch off the ignition and the engine stops if the coolant temp is still high.

 

The rad switch stage 1 is direct, so the fan only comes on if this switche is on. The fan controller near the header tank is not involved. Same as an ordinary 8v circuit in effect. Stage 1 switch off, stage 1 fan off. Stage 1 switch on, stage 1 fan on.

 

ETA: If it kicks in at 82'C, does this mean the stage 1 is running all the time you are driving?? Or is this just the dash dial reading and it reads lower whe you are normally driving?

 

.

Edited August 30, 2011 by RW1

[VR6 Lee 0]

The reason is because as above Stage 1 & 2 are controlled by the thermal switch in the rad wall by the battery tray corner.

 

The ones in the thermostat housing control:

 

-the Stage 3 (and you will know thats on!)

 

- the after-run fan when you switch off the ignition and the engine stops if the coolant temp is still high.

 

The rad switch stage 1 is direct, so the fan only comes on if this switche is on. The fan controller near the header tank is not involved. Same as an ordinary 8v circuit in effect. Stage 1 switch off, stage 1 fan off. Stage 1 switch on, stage 1 fan on.

 

ETA: If it kicks in at 82'C, does this mean the stage 1 is running all the time you are driving?? Or is this just the dash dial reading and it reads lower whe you are normally driving?

 

.

 

When my fans kick in and I turn off the ignition the fans just go off, no overrun like in my bros vr, so something not right!

 

Hmmmmmm

[RW1 0]

ETA: If it kicks in at 82'C, does this mean the stage 1 is running all the time you are driving?? Or is this just the dash dial reading and it reads lower when you are normally driving?

? ? ?

 

After-run fans don't always switch on if the engine is cool enough.

 

.

[VR6 Lee 0]

? ? ?

 

After-run fans don't always switch on if the engine is cool enough.

 

.

 

For example my fans kick in at 82 degrees and 89 degrees, if I wait for the temperature to get to 89 degrees, fans then kick in and I turn ignition off the fans just go straight off, no cooling the car down when ignition is off, is this correct

 

-----------------------------------------------------

 

ETA: If it kicks in at 82'C, does this mean the stage 1 is running all the time you are driving?? Or is this just the dash dial reading and it reads lower whe you are normally driving?

 

No normal running temprature of the car at say 50mph by looking at the gauge is 75 degrees, but as soon as i'm in traffic for say 1 minute the temprature rises to 82 degrees and fans kick in. They kick in so much though in traffic, Joke!!!

[RW1 0]

Ah right, the dial pointer is reading low. Temp gauge is not an accurate thing, just relative. Sounds as though its working OK, just a low reading. In traffic I get the fans on regularly once the engine has heated up due to standing in the traffic.

 

You can look at the coolant temp with VCDS in the Engine ECU.... Group 001, field 03. If thats agree with the gauge, then the sender is reading low. If its reading higher and corresponding more to the figure for stage one at 108'C - 110'C, then the gauge itself has the error. But as said, the VW gauges are wildly different between cars.

 

After-run fan. Yellow connector sensor on the thermostat housing is a good place to start. Before replacing, a check would be wise to see if it has switched ON with ignition OFF and a hot engine. Can't remember which wire colour to look at of the 4 wires. Not on my own computer at the mo. Will look up tonight and append here. Two are the dash dial gauge temp sender output. The other two control the sensing that triggers the fan controller to switch on the after-run fan (aka stage 1 rate).

 

ETA:

Found my post on here after struggling with the stupid search.

 

Disconnect the yellow connector and bridge pins 1 & 4 (was 3). The stage 1 fan should run. If not then the fan controller is suspect.

 

Yellow sensor check by warming up the engine until stage 1 fan triggers with the engine running and check to see if a circuit is made between its pins 1 & 4 (was 3) on the yellow sensor itself are closed and making a circuit. If not, yellow sensor is faulty.

 

.

Edited August 31, 2011 by RW1

[VR6 Lee 0]

Ah right, the dial pointer is reading low. Temp gauge is not an accurate thing, just relative. Sounds as though its working OK, just a low reading. In traffic I get the fans on regularly once the engine has heated up due to standing in the traffic.

 

You can look at the coolant temp with VCDS in the Engine ECU.... Group 001, field 03. If thats agree with the gauge, then the sender is reading low. If its reading higher and corresponding more to the figure for stage one at 108'C - 110'C, then the gauge itself has the error. But as said, the VW gauges are wildly different between cars.

 

After-run fan. Yellow connector sensor on the thermostat housing is a good place to start. Before replacing, a check would be wise to see if it has switched ON with ignition OFF and a hot engine. Can't remember which wire colour to look at of the 4 wires. Not on my own computer at the mo. Will look up tonight and append here. Two are the dash dial gauge temp sender output. The other two control the sensing that triggers the fan controller to switch on the after-run fan (aka stage 1 rate).

 

ETA:

Found my post on here after struggling with the stupid search.

 

Disconnect the yellow connector and bridge pins 1 & 3. The stage 1 fan should run. If not then the fan controller is suspect.

 

Yellow sensor check by warming up the engine until stage 1 fan triggers with the engine running and check to see if a circuit is made between its pins 1 & 3 on the yellow sensor itself are closed and making a circuit. If not, yellow sensor is faulty.

 

.

 

Cheers buddy, I will have to get my bro to dig his ross tech lead out so we can do the diagnostic, I will keep you posted!!

 

If you want to pop down to give a hand id appreciate it

 

[RW1 0]

Correction....

Yellow sensor - Pins 1 & 4 for the fan run-on switch contacts. Only really matters on the sensor as on the yellow connector pins 3 & 4 are common earth side. Pins 3 & 4 have Brown with Green stripe wires. Pin 1 has Brown with White stripe. Pin 2 is the feed to the dash water temp. gauge, Blue with White stripe.

 

Out tonight and engine ran at 94'C and 104'C oil temp, OAT was 14'C 60mph. Stopped and stage 1 fan on at 108'C water on dash dial, off at 106'C, cycling every 2 or 3 mins. (Bit lower than 110'C last week). VCDS reading about 97'C. Oil constant at 104'C

 

Drove off with water at 106'C and oil at 104'C. Within a mile at 50mph water plunged to 85'C and oil to 102'C. Then water moved gradually back upto 94'C as the thermostat caught up closed down a bit and the oil rose back to 104'C, over the next 5 miles.

 

Not until Friday earliest, providing you keep that guy in his 4x4 caged up. Last time I drove down your road he forced me all the way out in reverse, unsocialable bandit.

 

.

[VR6 Lee 0]

Not until Friday earliest, providing you keep that guy in his 4x4 caged up. Last time I drove down your road he forced me all the way out in reverse, unsocialable bandit.

 

When was this buddy??

 

You free next Friday

[RW1 0]

About nine years ago while house hunting.

 

Should be all day unless I have a headache with an MoT on Thursday.

 

PM me with address details as I see two locations in photos, one I don't recognise.

 

.

[VR6 Lee 0]

Cheers Chris(RW1) for coming round on Friday afternoon, nice to see you again, We could have gone to the pub in the end instead of standing in the garage chatting about vw's! :)

 

Ordered part number 701 919 369B + the rubber seal from SKF,Ian as usual wouldn't give any sort of discount :(, price was £26 inc the rubber seal so not bad. Tuesday I will pick it up and fit it!

 

Fingers crossed it works, will keep you posted!

[VR6 Lee 0]

Yellow sender replaced this evening :)

 

Normal operating temperature running at steady 40mph (82-83 degrees) Sometimes drop below 80 degrees on faster speeds

 

 

 

Stage 1 kicking in around 88-89 degrees

 

 

Stage 2 kicking in around 92 degrees

 

[RW1 0]

Does the after-run fan work now?

 

.

[VR6 Lee 0]

Does the after-run fan work now?

 

.

 

Will check tonight and let you know!! Fingers crossed!

[VR6 Lee 0]

Will check tonight and let you know!! Fingers crossed!

 

Left engine to heatup to 92 degrees, fans kicked in so immediately turned ignition off and fans just went off. They didn't re-start and I waited 5 minutes.

:(