Dicky Ignition Switch?

[andy 0]

I've noticed lately that my stereo sometimes doesn't come alive after I start the car, however a little jiggle of the ignition key and she works, but if I then go over a bump, the key must move slightly in the lock and it will cut out again until I reposition it. Its like I've got too much slack in the switch, I've even had the engine ignition cut out temporarily whilst repositioning the key within the slack. I assume this can only be the switch at fault? Any ideas how much they are and if I can reset it to work with my existing key?

[mimjed 0]

ignition switch and barrel are two different things,

 

ignition switch is about £15 and worth replacing anyway as they arent the most reliable.

 

new barrel can be retumbled to match your key yes. not sure on cost for a brand new one though.

[andy 0]

So am I right in thinking I could use my existing barrel in a new switch, I assumed a new switch would come with a new barrel.

[mimjed 0]

lol. no, an ignition switch is a plastic housing with electrical connections inside. its screwed on to the end of the ignition barrel with one small screw.

 

an ignition barrel is the part where the key sits in and the tumble pins allow for correct fitment with your key.

 

could quite well just be that the tumble pins need a clean and a grease to fix your problem

[bristolbaron 10]

Sounds about right for ignition switch.. there are loads of threads on it if you use the search, also a wiki guide on replacing it.

 

http://wiki.the-corrado.net/ignition_switch_replacement.html

 

Just one fiddly screw to contend with, the rest of the job is really easy. I ended up getting to the screw from the passenger side, was much easier than going underneath.

[andy 0]

Well you learn somewthing new every day, I assumed it was all one of the same! I'll have a gander later today and sort my oil temp sensor out too if the rain ever stops....

 

Cheers Chaps

[andy 0]

I'm in the middle of this job, how the heck can you get to the screw that holds the switch part. I've never seen anything so ridiculous. I've also removed the 2 shear bolts that hold the lock cylinder housing to gain extra millimetres buts its still impossible to get at. AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHH!

[andy 0]

Not to worry, I've just read some old posts on this, the hammer is coming out to break the old switch out!

[andy 0]

All done! What a sh1t of a job! Got the original screw back in too, couldn't have done this job without removing the 2 shear bolts mentioned above out. Well worth noting, it give you much better access, got some nice posi head machine screws in there now. It all works properly now too. Only trouble is I have to do my other halfs now as you need almost superhuman strength to fire the starter on hers!

[CazzaVR 0]

Good idea to use a cable tie to hold the switch in instead of re-fitting that horrible screw... just in case it fails in the future. Did you get a new swtich from VW? The GSF ones etc aren't supposed to be very good :(

[andy 0]

Yes, got a VW one, it was £22 plus VAT from TPS. I had no problem getting the screw back in strangely enough, just getting it out. I've now just finished fitting my Phillips 80% brighter bulbs now in the dark, so off for a drive to test both bits!

[bristolbaron 10]

I'm in the middle of this job, how the heck can you get to the screw that holds the switch part. I've never seen anything so ridiculous. I've also removed the 2 shear bolts that hold the lock cylinder housing to gain extra millimetres buts its still impossible to get at. AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHH!

 

I told you it was fiddly! :lol:

[andy 0]

It was fiddly...until I read on here about mullering the old switch to gain access to the screw. I got a big grippy pair of pliers on the switch, then erm... 'tappped' the pliers with a hammer. The switch practically disintegrated, leaving easy access to the screw (also removed lower dash plastic for access). I think I'll manage Lisas within an hour when I'm feeling brave!