What does Ross-Tech VAG-COM VCDS Software See.

[gregski 0]

I have spent 2 years looking for screen shots or actual typed up information of what I would get if I bought the Ross-Tech automotive diagnostic software, specifically for my 1993 Vokswagen Corrado VR6 SLC. (Yes I know Ross-Tech on their website has an excellent online manual with screen shots, I know I went through it, however most of our Corrado's are what most would call OBDI (but not really they are Vag-Com) and not OBDII so we don't get half the bells and whistles.

 

The point of this post is to share with you what one would see if you were to diagnose a Volkswagen Corrado VR6 using Ross-Tech VCDS-Lite, (notice I said VR6 and not the G60 four cylinder turbo model, also mine does not have the coil pack). I will show you screen prints of actual data, for both a cold start, ie Open Loop readings, and readings once the car is warmed up, ie Closed Loop readings.

 

First a little background, and feel free to correct me as I am learning as I go.

 

You need a special cable, special software ie Ross-Tech, and a laptop to diagnose your car in this manner. There are three versions of the software. Free version (ie shareware, it does not interpret all the error codes, only some, that's a pain), VCDS-Lite (which is what I have, it shows you all the codes), and the full version (which may be overkill as it gives you controls for OBDII cars that our car does not have, like door lock control, etc, but I haven't used that version so I'm not 100% sure, there may be some things that are worth while, like 0-60 times).

 

Regardless of what version of VCDS you have it will show you "Measuring Blocks" of information in only 6 groups (well technically 7 if you count Group 0) for newer cars like OBDII Jettas or Passats it will show you dozens of groups of information. It does this 3 groups at a time, so no you can not customize the screen to show you all 6 groups on one screen. When I contacted the company technical support they said that the dealers diagnostic tools show you only 1 group at a time, so 3 at a time is that much better, and they don't show you more than that because pushing that much data over the wire would delay/sque the results. (Good enough explanation for me, anyways).

 

WARNING: My car is sick right now, or so I've been told. It is supposedly running lean, so some of the readings may not be ideal, don't go trying to match what my car says, unless specified, just see what is being reported. However if you see a setting that is out of range and perhaps causing my lean condition do let me know, I will appreciate that immensely, that's why I am going through all these diagnostics in the first place.

 

In order to keep this long post short, I will break it up into at least two other ones, one with screen prints for the Open Loop, and a second post for the Closed Loop. Then we can start the discussion.

[gregski 0]

OPEN LOOP (aka a Cold Start)

 

This is what you get when you start the VR6 car when it is 57 Fahrenheit (13.9 Celsius) outside. Forgive me I am an European living in United States driving a German car, so I suffer from a bit of Standard Measurement Schizophrenia (SMS) LOL. My car's display speaks; miles, gallons, and Fahrenheit, and the Ross-Tech software speaks kilometers and Celsius.

 

Groups 001 002 003

 

 

Groups 004 005 006

 

 

Of note are the RPMs which are naturally high at 960 while the car warms up. Also the Oxygen Sensor (ie Lambda Sensor) has not come to life yet, it is not active at 1.000 until the car reaches a certain temperature.

[gregski 0]

CLOSED LOOP (aka a Warmed Up)

 

This is what you get when you warm up the VR6 car for 8 minutes when it is 57 Fahrenheit (13.9 Celsius) outside. I say 8 minutes because this is when the Oxygen Sensor decided to roll up it's sleeves and kicked in, closing the loop and beginning to report actual readings of exhaust mixture other than 1.000. I feel letting you know what kind of day it was is important as I'm sure my data would differ on a 104 Fahrenheit day in the summer time, as would yours in much colder winter conditions.

 

Groups 001 002 003

 

 

Groups 004 005 006

 

 

Of note is the significant drop in RPMs from 960 when cold to 720 when the loop is closed. Eventually the VR6 will stabilize at 650 RPM and what a lovely tune that is. The key is "stabilizes" as their pesky nature does want to rev up and down at times do to a multitude of sensor, valve, and other malfunctions. (The MAF being a primary suspect, as are vacuum leaks.)