HELP! Corrado doesnt want to idle! :(

[JC 0]

I must get glass's, never seen 2cc's reply.

[qrugh 0]

In case this helps (although I think I'm just backing up everyone else) I had exactly the same problem on my Golf. It became a really bad starter, would keep stalling at roundabouts, was generally unpleasant to drive. That was also a split vacuum hose.

 

I should point out that it took the dealers two tries to find it then two more days to order the part! Grrr... So glad I swapped the Golf for a sensible car like a Corrado! :lol:

[chuck 0]

Mmm. Thought I had this fixed. Wouldn't idle this morning. And I was giving someone a lift into work - very embarrassing when you really need a third foot to keep on the accelerator when braking etc..

But in usual style - its working OK now!!!

So, to try and understand whats going wrong, I'll ask the question - 'what does the ISV do'? When its idling and you disconnect it, the car stalls - exactly what it was doing this morning.

I'll try cleaning it with petrol soon, but I'd still like to know what I'm doing it for. And if its a valve, why does it have a buzzing motor attached (i take it it is supposed to buzz??!)

Hopefully it'll work OK tomorrow morning....

 

Thanks

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Yeah the idle valve is supposed to buzz, it has a motor inside it that pulses air into the inlet tract to stabilise the idle. Sometimes they can jam and hitting it with a hammer frees it off again. Cleaning it out just removes the oil residues from the working parts as too much can again cause it to jam.

 

Is yours an 1800 16V or 2.0? Maybe the idle needs resetting. To do this you need to get the car up to temperature, take the ISV out of circuit by unplugging the red connector under the igntion coil, remove the breather hose and plug the airbox hole with a walking stick bung or something, turn the brass screw on the throttle anti-clockwise until it you get a 1000rpm idle. The engine may be a little lumpy, indicating the CO is out. Get a long 3mm allen key and stick it in the small hole in front of the metering head rubber boot, with the engine running you need to turn this screw (don't press down on it) in small amounts until the idle is smooth. Anti-clockwise to weaken and clockwise to enrichen. Once the engine is idling steadily at 1000rpm, plug the breather hose back in and also put the ISV back in circuit.

 

Now take the car out for a drive and let off the gas abruptly as you approach a junction. Observe the rev counter. It should fall down gracefully to 950 ish rpm and NOT plummet like a brick and bounce.

 

Failing all that and the ISV is known to be working, you may have an air leak which needs investigating. If it won't idle when cold, it's probably the 5th injector.

 

To test the ISV, crimp the long hose that feeds from the valve into the inlet hose with your fingers. You should feel it vibrate and the harder you squeeze, the engine should cut out. If both happen, the valve is OK.

 

Kev

[W3RKD 0]

What is the clip thing on the second ignition lead for? I have one as well but its on the first lead.

 

he he its for removing the plugleads without damaging them...

[chuck 0]

Thanks Kev,

 

BTW its a 1.8 16V, and I couldn't find the red connector you spoke of, but I just disconnected the ISV plug and worked form there. It now idles nicely at just under 1000rpm. It used to be at 800 and a wee bit lumpy. Now its fine and it is a whole load easier to drive around town too :) . And its been OK starting recently too since i cleaned the ISV. (also since cleaning - its stopped buzzing and now hums :) )

Good advice - thanks

[CorradoVR6-Turbo 0]

I've got the same thing. Just happens occasionly but when I start, unless I keep my foot on the throttle to keep the engine speed up it dies.

After a couple of miles it'll idle, but around 400rpm instead of the more usual 900. It'll stay like that for another few miles, then once fully warm it'll be ok.

Reading what I've jsut written it sounds like it could be something to do with the autochoke or warm up regualtor???

 

Anyone got any thoughts on this????

 

Hi there there are three temp switches on gearbox side of head one of them controlles the idle vale(go to vw for which one) go get new one and replace it before replacing idle valves ect this is simple but works.

If no luck clean out idle valve with brake cleaner.

 

Cheers James

[mrbills78 0]

On the top of your valve cover there should be a flying saucer looking part that attaches to your intake, there is a rubber gromet under it that holds it to the cover make sure it's not broken it will simulate a vaccum leak

[20valver 0]

Just cleaned out my ISV with a bit of carb cleaner...and it has made such a difference I can't believe it!! My car is now super smooth from cold, and no more reving/idling problems from cold :D

 

Got a 16v that chuggs a bit from cold give this a go!!!

[Rams 0]

Just read through the responses and I noticed that your car gives you good fuel econmy and someone else rightly pointed out that your mixtures could be at fault, but your mixtures could be too lean hence you needing to give a bit of accleration on start up. Its all do do with the injection system as the pump sprays fuel for around 5 or 7 seconds thats what the noise when the ignition is turned... The louder the noise the higher the pressure you have from your fuel pump so when you accerate upon start up you flud the engine and it takes loger for the combustion to take take its place.Just an idea!

[jimborae 0]

This is a seriously good thread, i read it earlier and did it this evening its cured my idling problems too. Maybe it should be made a sticky perhaps?

 

Cheers

 

Jim

[iamsilverfox 10]

holy thread revival batman! found this thread very helpful and perhaps it could contribute to a kr idle troubleshooting guide?