AlgarveVR6 0 Posted January 16, 2011 Got the engine wiring loom out as far as where it dissapears behind the turret and behind the brake servo. Where do I go from here to get it out. :? Do I remove the servo, and if so, whats the best way to do it. Not looked inside yet, but presume the loom comes inside behind the fuse box? Thanks for any help :help: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Purple Tom 0 Posted January 16, 2011 The only way is to remove the servo, which is held in place by 4 nuts accessible from inside the car behind the pedal box. You'll also need to disconnect the servo actuating rod from the brake pedal which is simple to do as its a pin with a spring clip holding it in place. Is the engine in or out? Its far easier to remove the servo with the engine out as you can remove the two bolts securing the M/C to the servo and then gently move the M/C out of the way without removing the brake pipes (but being careful not to bend/kink them). Once you've decided what to do with the M/C (either move it out of the way or remove completely), then you're on to removing the servo itself which if I'm honest is a total pig to remove, in fact I found it the most difficult job when I did my OBD2 conversion. However once you've got it at the right angle its not too bad. Once the servo is out the loom is easily visible where it goes through the bulkhead just behind the O/S suspension turret. You'll need to drop the fusebox down to fully see where it comes through the bulkhead as its a bit of a rats nest of wiring up there, however its fairly straightforward once you've got it all visible. Hope that helps! Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AlgarveVR6 0 Posted January 16, 2011 Thanks Tom much appreciated. Ok gonna get the master cylinder off, then try and remove servo from inside. Engine is about 1 hour and a "help from a friend" away from being pulled out. When the master cylinder is removed, I am guessing there will be fluid everywhere? knew I should have removed door and seat before sliding it in the garage anyway here's to no more knuckles lost. :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Purple Tom 0 Posted January 16, 2011 I presume its a VR6? I've only ever removed the servo on a VR (with the engine out) but I think it'd be easier with the engine in situ than for example the 8V that I have now - the VR6 engine doesn't have the inlet manifold in the way like the 4 cylinder cars. However, engine out makes it far far easier! When you remove the master cylinder you will indeed get a lot of brake fluid leakage. I always use a small syringe to remove as much fluid as possible from the reservoir before removing the brake pipes. You can block the master cylinder union connections using bolts of the correct size to prevent fluid loss from the M/C but you'll get some fluid coming out of the pipes that lead to the ABS pump. You can make up some plugs using brake unions if you've got a brake pipe flaring tool etc. Good luck with it! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AlgarveVR6 0 Posted January 17, 2011 Yes its a VR Had a good look this morning. You're right about the rats nest theory. I presume that the loom has to be removed into the engine bay, and not the other way. Do the necessary connections to the fuse box, that I'm gonna have to remove, all have personalised connections? i.e. they will only go back in one place. Was thinking the fluid will need changing anyway, as it's probably original. Just trying to think of best way to drain it? Thanks again Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Purple Tom 0 Posted January 17, 2011 Yeah the loom needs to be removed through the bulkhead into the bay. The 4 main wiring plugs are all individual and unique to their 'socket' in the back of the fusebox. To remove them there is a bar that needs to be slid to one side to release the plugs, its not easy to describe but you'll see when you have a look at the back of the fusebox itself. There will be a few smaller plugs and maybe a relay (there was on my engine loom) but they're all colour coded so refitting shouldn't be a problem. I did however take the precaution of making comprehensive notes when I removed my loom just to be sure that everything would go back in the right place. HTH Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AlgarveVR6 0 Posted January 17, 2011 excellent thanks for that Tom will get my note book and pen out, along with the camera me thinks. I have to put it all back in at some point. :confused4: This is of course before my new engine goes in which is why the loom is being changed anyway. dizzy engine, old and tired, to rebuilt spanking coil pack engine. oooo looking forward to proper horses again Thanks again Dic :nuts: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Purple Tom 0 Posted January 17, 2011 No problem, good luck with it, it sounds like it'll definitely be worth all of the work once you get it back together! You could take the opportunity to re-wrap your new loom as well, check all of the wiring while its visible etc so you should eliminate any future potential electrical issues with the engine loom. Enjoy :-) Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AlgarveVR6 0 Posted January 18, 2011 yep, have some self amalgamating tape on the way. Seem like a sensible idea to me as well Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AlgarveVR6 0 Posted January 21, 2011 ok, both looms out. Rats nest was an understatement. Loom rewrapped in tape and ready to go back in First need to repair a little bit on the fuse box where excess heat somewhere has melted the insulation on some wires wonder if thats not helping with the flat running. will check my book and see what the wire was for ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites