Advice on 9A 16v Strip down/ build up

[cheesy 0]

I've got a spare 9A engine which i intend to swap over with my current engine

 

Its already had the tolerances on the oil pump checked,

Heads been cleaned

& inspection of bores via camera

 

Previous owner of engine has done above, was a raf engineer

 

Now i intend to change/fit new

 

Cambelt Kit

KR Cam

Cam chain

Aux Belts

Water Pump

Thermostat

Oil/water Cooler

Injectors Been cleaned

New Sensors

 

 

Any thing else i should do/consider or upgrade while its still sat on the stand waiting to go in

[davidwort 0]

take a big end shell out and have a look, easy to replace one by one on a built engine, done it under the car a couple of times :) can't do any harm to replace them.

KR and 9A injectors don't really clean up very well, they actually wear out and it's worth replacing them if you want a smooth and nice idling engine, they're good for about 80-100K but will loose performance after that.

Porting the exhaust and inlet manifolds to the head is worth doing too.

[Kempy 0]

new flanges

[cheesy 0]

cheers david & kempy

 

 

Do you know the cost on the injectors?

 

I'll look into the porting or can this be done diy?

 

Worth fitting a 4 branch manifold?

is so which would be best?

[Kempy 0]

I got a 4 branch. I'd say they are a good addition

[pete_griff 0]

definitely don't try and port it yourself; you're likely to do more harm than good trying to do it yourself without a flow bench and knowing whatsor of shape the ports should be adjusted to etc.

 

the only thing that can sensibly be done at home is gasket matching the ports - that will give you a better response and is easy to do with some patience and a dremel-type tool.

[__Andy__ 0]

port and polish head, four branch, kr cams, new injectors, all new bearings, id do the rings aswell if the engine is out, re-hone the bores, replace all the gaskets and seals, imo id replace the clutch and all cv joints when putting the new engine in, makes a big differnce. if you need anymore info then check out my members thread..

[aide 0]

all of the above plus check out the intermediate shaft bearings, always forgotten about and have seen then disintegrate badly, you cant change them when the engine is in the car either.

 

its definitely do-able to gasket match, and then remove imperfections and smooth the valve runners, heavy porting best left to the pros though.

[sexybourbon 0]

Did my injectors a month or so ago there about 35 quid a go but i would only go for bosh ones tho

[Kempy 0]

are they £35 each?

[davidwort 0]

yep, it adds up with 4 to change, but worth it when the ones you have are on high mileage, they just don't atomise well, particularly at low revs/delivery when worn

[Kempy 0]

might have to buy one a month lol, Id think a fuel filter would help to

[cheesy 0]

cheers for all the info

 

Give me a list to look into

 

what brand of 4 branch is the better to go with??

[harryc 0]

I rebuilt my 9a with;

New VW bearings (crank and conrod)

New vw crank oil seal

New VW piston rings

Kr head with twin kr exhasut cams

Honed and decked block

All new gaskets

S/S 4 branch

Panel filter

Lightened fly

 

Then got the fuelling sorted at Stealth and rolling roaded at 170bhp.

[Big'G' 0]

Harry how much did that hit the wallet for??

[harryc 0]

Well i built the engine over 6 months buying a few bits at a time and replaced anything else that looked worn as i went. Didnt break the bank though, things like s/s manifolds and kr cams can be picked up for very little. The real gains from my car were from having the fuelling set up properly at stealth. Believe i saw an increase of 25bhp at peak and solid increase across the range.