RW1 0 Posted September 2, 2011 Igniton pulses for rev counter & spark plug fires on ABF come from the Hall sender in Dizzy (replaced). The pulses from the dizzy go via the ECU and then split to the coil transistor and to the rev counter. If both rev counter ain't steady readings and coil ain't firing the plugs (so you have unburnt fuel), the only common factor besides the dizzy hall sender is the ECU. ???? . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dannyboy 0 Posted September 2, 2011 doesnt sound like your injectors are the problem,injectors can run for quite a bit(mine were 375,000 km on my old g60 and they got punished) especially is only started happening again. Sounds like trigger wire from ECU to the Coil is coming loose or harness on the ecu has a loose connector.Could even be the hall sender to ecu feed wire. All this sounds like is youve got a loose wire somewhere,your job is to find it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pumbaa 0 Posted September 2, 2011 If new leads doesn't sort it I have a spare ecu somewhere I can sell you cheapish, again it's at my folks though. They have a garage and I don't. :( ---------- Post added at 06:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:45 PM ---------- @dannyboy, 16v injectors are a whole different game to g60 ones. They are always open and are prone to leaking. Old k-jet injectors are the source of many a problem and after 100k are well beyond their best and will not be spraying properly at all. They also do not respond well to ultrasonic cleaning. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jacko 0 Posted September 3, 2011 Righty... another update... Just put on my fancy red HT leads and i still have the same problem :( is there any chance there could be a dry solder in the ECU somewhere? what are the chances? If i take the ECU out, how likely is it that I distroy it? are they fragile? I spent the last 4 years of my life repairing equiptment at component level so quite a dab hand at soldering lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jacko 0 Posted September 4, 2011 I was talking to a friend last night who is a mechanic for Audi, he thinks my problem will be either the lambda sensor or the metering head as he had roughly the same problem on his RS Turbo. Shame ive run out of money this month already :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RW1 0 Posted September 4, 2011 The video shows an electrical problem of a rev counter boucing while the engine doesn't reflect that????? (and the can't do that while driving probably anyway!). Meter head and lambda won't solve it. Or is the rev counter reflecting what the engine is doing cos it doesn't sound like that.???? As someone posted earlier, check the wires, particularly the dizzy to ECU for bad connection/broken wire internally. If OK, cos you've done the dizzy and therefore the hall sender (a possible suspect), the only common part left to the engine not running right and rev counter dancing is the ECU if the wiring is not broken or there's not a loose connection. . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jacko 0 Posted September 4, 2011 Yeah I'm gonna have a good look round all the wires to and from the dizzy and the ecu later I think. I tried to get the ecu out yesterday but didn't want to take every thing out from around it. My Audi friend said the metering head fault goes hand in hand with poor fuel consumption, I've managed just under 150 miles from a full tank, that's pretty poor from a 2 litre and over £60 of petrol :( Thanks guys, it's really starting to annoy me now :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jacko 0 Posted September 4, 2011 Just driven back from my girlfrends brothers house which is about 3 miles away, after 2 miles the engine refused to rev but the rev counter was bounching all over the place between 4k and wayy past the red line even tho the engine was sat at idle as i had pulled over, its to the point that there is not enough power to pull the car along, it just feels like its going to stall if i try and pull away, 2 mins later it was working perfectly like nothing was wrong at all. It has to be something to do with the ECU really... all the wires look in good condition, im going to borrow a proper multimeter from work tomorrow to check all the wiring getting annoyed now :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites