teveO 10 Posted May 16, 2011 hey, any help would be great-full. I was driving on the motorway yesterday, stopped to meet with friends, and a loud knocking noise came from the engine! I turned it off and checked the oil it was on min. I toped it up but it was still doing it. i drove to work this morning and it was knocking when i arived aprox 3miles away. i started the car this afternoon and it was fine no knocking! but when im driving, there feels as if there is no boost but it feels if it wants to boost im confused :scratch: any help would be great steve Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mimjed 0 Posted May 16, 2011 sounds like charger is the most likely suspect to be honest. best way i found to tell was get a large screwdriver will a solid handle, put the blade side on the charger and the handle to your ear. youll be able to tell if the knocking is coming from it then. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dannyboy 0 Posted May 16, 2011 i used to use that technique quite a bit,works! but in all fairness would you put your head beside a glader if its ready to go bang? I deffo wont! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
anarchy 10 Posted May 16, 2011 Another thing you can do is remove the baffle on the end of the supercharger and look for signs of foul play (oil, metal shavings ECT) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mimjed 0 Posted May 16, 2011 ha ha quite right. ask your mate to do it for you ;) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
teveO 10 Posted May 17, 2011 thanks guys! when i perchased the car the guy said it had a new charger back in december? i have the paper work for it to and it does look new i have checked for leaks in the pipe work and there is nothing?? when i put my foot down to accelerate it just dies do u think it could of sliped on the timing belt?? thanks steve Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted May 17, 2011 It could be anything - I wouldn't drive it at all until sorted or you could be looking at a very expensive bill! Running with minumum oil really doesn't help either! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
teveO 10 Posted May 19, 2011 hey guys. my g60 has running problems i was told yesterday to get a coolant sensor. i have fitted a new sensor but still not pulling properly. the car will rev but when coming to idle it nearly cuts out every time? it will start first time every time and rev on the spot with no hesitation. but when it is under load there is no power it wants to rev and will get to 6000 revs but its nothing like it was last week i have checked my air filter, dizzy cap, leads, spark plugs, compression test and all have come back fine there is no leaks in my pipe work for the charger and the charger seems to be fine. any help would be great cheers steve. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jaded2882 0 Posted May 19, 2011 Where abouts are you? Sounds like you need to get it to a good garage that knows G-laders. I've been shocked by the lack of G knowledge at most non-specialist but reputable local vw garages. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
teveO 10 Posted May 19, 2011 i live in south wales i have got it booked it to a vw specialist by me just wanted to know if there is anything quick to change which maby causes this fault? cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dannyboy 0 Posted May 20, 2011 is it just hestation or is it misfiring too? also make sure you've checked for the dreeded crank pulley bolt has'nt come undone.Theres a sticky here for it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
weetos 0 Posted May 20, 2011 sounds like the dreaded crank bolt to me :-( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
teveO 10 Posted May 20, 2011 i have checked the crank bolt and it seems fine. has anyone had timing problems as if it has jumped a tooth? it missfire's and is really hesitant. once i fitted the coolant sensor yest let the engine warming up and took it for a run it was hesitant all the way to 4000 revs then it boosted to 6000? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
weetos 0 Posted May 20, 2011 It may look ok mine did....... you really need to check that the timing marks still line up. see Yans tread here http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?38512-Definitive-G60-Timing-Belt-Setting&highlight=g60+timing On mine the belt had not slipped but the crank pully location pin had been chewed up wich allowed the crank to move not much fortunatly but enough to knock the timing out and sounds very simair to your problems. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
teveO 10 Posted May 20, 2011 hey thanks for the reply i will check the timing out later on this afternoon and let you know how i get on cheers for the help Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wullie 1 Posted May 20, 2011 Quick check on the crank bolt. Whip out the plugs. Stick a dowel or similar down the No 1 plug hole. Turn the engine (might be better jacking up the drivers side wheel, putting the car in gear and using the wheel to turn the engine over) until the dowel rises to tdc, i.e stops being pushed up by the piston and before it starts to go down again. Check the alighnment of the pulley and cambelt cover timing marks, they should be spot on. If no timing mark is visible rotate the engine another half turn till it appears. On mine the timing mark on the pulley was retarded about an inch. See last post in here for parts and how to fix if not too bad. http://direct.the-corrado.net/showthread.php?55045-Fate-tempted-and-it-retaliated/page2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yandards 0 Posted May 20, 2011 The engine is doing what it is meant to do when it knocks, pull back the timing and dump the boost. Who refurbished the supercharger? Check TDC as Wullie above states but I would use the flywheel 0 degree mark on a G60 as this is more accurate for checking the crank. More info on G60 specific timing and setup can be found in here G60s can munch the tops of the pistons and the bottom bearings (as with any forced induction car)if setup incorrectly due to the extra forces involved. If the knocking has reached a point where you can hear it from inside the car then it will be fairly terminal and it is likely that as you have driven it around since something has failed. First check the boost hose at the charger outlet for bits of debris and then move onto removing the sump to check the bottom end of the engine, a good garage should have a bore camera to look though the cylinder head onto the pistons for any signs of damage. It may be something simple like the crank bolt having gone but with the extra noise and continued use of the car it is likely that something has been on the end of excessive loading. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
teveO 10 Posted May 20, 2011 hey guys ive found the problem! lucky really! The pin on the crank pully has gone compleatly and was running on a small bit of the woodrif key just need to find a crank pully any1 know where from? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yandards 0 Posted May 20, 2011 hey guys ive found the problem! lucky really! The pin on the crank pully has gone compleatly and was running on a small bit of the woodrif key just need to find a crank pully any1 know where from? VW. Part number is 049 105 263 C Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
teveO 10 Posted May 20, 2011 VW. Part number is 049 105 263 C cheers dude glad i caught it when i did. has this solved most of your problems? like mpg running warmer than usual etc... thanks again yan thought this was going to be an expensive fix. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
weetos 0 Posted May 21, 2011 glad you found it! but make sure that the keyway on the crank isn't chewed up otherwise it will happen again! IIRC the pulleys about £30ish Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
teveO 10 Posted May 24, 2011 hey guys spent allday on the corrado yest fitting the new pully and timing belt. started her up and its missing real bad is this down to the ignition timing? i haven't moved the ignition timing at all and assumed it would be ok? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
weetos 0 Posted May 24, 2011 (edited) could of slipped a tooth on intermediate shaft move dizzy to compensate if that dont work you may have a bent valve Edited May 24, 2011 by weetos Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yandards 0 Posted May 24, 2011 You will need to reset the timing completely to ensure it is set up correctly. Guide on here, link Note that the ignition and CO are set dynamically at 2000-2500rpm with the blue temp sensor unplugged.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites