Dannyboys G60 project-Now 20vT

[dannyboy 0]

Well more time in the garage....

 

The misses is getting annoyed that i spend more time in there than in the house.Told her she goes before the car...Im currently walking around the house dazed with a head shaped dent in the frying pan that the wife uses more to 'educate' me more than she cooks with it.

Oh well...love,or something like that?

 

 

Footpedal height sorted. and a nice BIG K&N filter added. Opted for the XD version of the filter as the filtration level is higher than normal one at the tiny expense of flow which is what i wanted.I'll be relocating the battery to the other side at a later date and shield the heat away from the filter but since its winter it doesnt matter

[G60_edge 0]

Looking good, I moved my battery over to the other side of the bay. Made a new tray up today. I'll post up some pics of mine to compare.

Another question for you. Where and how are you running the vacuum for brake servo. I'm taking mine out of the inlet but my brake seemed dreadful on first drive today.

[dannyboy 0]

oh thats good question! i believe LHD ABS have a pump internal with a pressure acummulitar so i didnt need to use the vacuum. Do you have the black and white one way valve attached? Is yours not abs model?

[G60_edge 0]

servo vacuum sorted now, now taken off manifold. Bit of a better drive today, it sounds evil!

[dannyboy 0]

What have you done about the abs light?is yours on? mines not working at the moment prob due to missing digifant ecu or maybe something im missing...

 

Im dreading MOT time as mines overfuelling a bit at the moment on idle but then again ive got no cat on there,just a straight jetex system.20vt do sound evil at high RPMs and quiet at lows with jetex on!!!

 

Have you seen this video??? It sounds excatly like mine,just mine doesnt move as quick and maybe a little quieter

[G60_edge 0]

my abs light was on before the conversion because of knackered rear abs sensor from when I rebuilt the rear end. I don't think the ECU should effect anything though, make sure all you sensors are plugged in and reading right.

I've got a jetex on with no cat. The exhaust is actaully pretty quiet which I like, it's the induction and dumping the boost that sounds evil!

I reckon mines overfuelling, need to check lambda working right.

[dannyboy 0]

mine over fuels too,seems to have got little better as ive found a large hole in the s-shaped breather pipe under the manifold and bought new one along with new turbo output flange gasket.

Got a jetex too and decat also-ive got the resonated system as i wanted it to be quieter.on vcds block 30 to 33 is all im looking for for lambda valves. I think because of my fault code p1426 N80 valve open circiut the fuel trim is running rich so i need to put resistors in or run an EVAP unit

[G60_edge 0]

I've put a resistor in for N80. I was told that this is one of the sensors you need as without, the ECU adaption isn't saved between starts. The resistor works as I don't have an error code for it. If you have the sensor you can obviously plug it in without plumbing it in.

I'll have to check out those measuring blocks, not too sure what I'm looking for though!

Plumbed in my boost gauge on Sat, peaks at around 1bar and then runs at about 0.8/0.9 bar on full throttle, this is on std map. What does your run?

Also appear to have leaking oil from around the turbo somewhere, I fear my one of my oil seals may be shot, need to investigate.

[dannyboy 0]

Thats the PCV system that makes it look like your turbo seals are gone,dont worry their not.Take the PCV off the intake pipe just after the maf,dip your finger in and you'll see oil.

 

Im on standard map,haven't plumbed in guage yet so i dont know boost readings yet.your readings sound normal so your looking good

 

On block 30 you should have one box with 011 or 111 or 110 in it.ideally it should be 011 or 111 most of the time

on block 31 you should have 1.0 0.8 is rich and 1.2 is lean

on block 33 you will see the lambda sensor voltage 0.2 is lean 0.8 is rich ,it should be in middle when cruising

 

---------- Post added at 10:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:33 PM ----------

 

some new additions- Boost guage and A/F guage holder that slots into center console.

 

And picking up the pcv hose and turbo seal i noticed a model of corrado ive never heard of :lol:

they know me so much by now,when i go to the parts desk he has the audi tt parts screen ready for me!

[dannyboy 0]

Do you have a resistor in the N112 valve as well?think it might overfuel if this code has flagged up. ive just went to a scrappy and bought N80 off a audi(end in same number so i suppose theyre pretty much the same) for fiver and think it may have helped,not sure yet-might have to clear the codes on VAG-COM.

 

One bigger problem remains that i cant understand is the code 'ECU power relay J217 intermittent' or something like that.Ive given the ecu a constant feed to pin 62,so shouldnt be a problem.

 

One other question is have you given pin 28 feed from ecu(blue/purple) to alternator pin W? i have not idea apart from i think its many used as a voltage reference or rpm feed.But surely thats what the engine rpm sensor on front of the block does.

[G60_edge 0]

No, I've not got N112 connected or a resistor. I have 6 error codes that won't clear all of which are expected, see below.

I've got constant 12v to pin 62, straight from the battery.

I've got switched live (line 15, Corrado G1/4) connected to APX ECU pin 3 (black)

I haven't updated my wiring document to what I did with the alternator wiring so will have to check on the car. I've definitely got pin W connected. I'll check my wiring and let you know.

I still haven't got my tach working though.

 

18084 - EPC Warning Lamp (K132) Circuit

P1676 - 35-00 - Electrical Malfunction

17841 - Secondary Air Pump Relay (J299)

P1433 - 35-00 - Open Circuit

17840 - Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112)

P1432 - 35-00 - Open Circuit

17931 - Crash Signal from Airbag Controller

P1523 - 35-00 - Implausible Signal

18057 - Powertrain Data Bus

P1649 - 35-10 - Missing Message from ABS Controller - Intermittent

17695 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249)

P1287 - 35-00 - Open Circuit

 

---------- Post added at 10:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:59 PM ----------

 

looking back through the wiring diagrams I'm prrety sure I would have connected pin W up to the ECU. Not sure what it did but seemed like a good idea at the time. The other wire off the alternator is conencted up to the dash.

I'll double check on the car though tomorrow.

[dannyboy 0]

'17695 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249)

P1287 - 35-00 - Open Circuit

 

This will limit boost quite a bit,i took the N112 valve off and put it on the N249 connector left of number one coil pack as its the same connector.

Mine's

 

Wednesday, 16 November 2011, 19:25:34:43355

VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.1

Control Module Part Number: 8L0 906 018 M

Component and/or Version: 1.8L R4/5VT 0002

 

5 Faults Found:

 

18057 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from ABS Controller

P1649 - 35-00 - -

18084 - EPC Warning Lamp (K132) Circuit: Electrical Malfunction

P1676 - 35-00 - -

17840 - Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112): Open Circuit

P1432 - 35-00 - -

17925 - Power Supply Relay for ECU (J271 or J363): Electrical Malfunction

P1517 - 35-00 - -

17931 - Crash Signal from Airbag Controller: Implausible Signal

P1523 - 35-00 -

 

the ecu one is the one that concerns me,Maybe because i dont have pin W on the alternator hooked up.So you have three wires on your alternator connected then, two small ones and big red

 

---------- Post added at 09:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:11 PM ----------

 

just found that pin 28 does indeed need to go to DFM on the alternator so will have to add a wire to that tomorrow. my lambda is working but the ecu is not using it as controller is on zero at the moment and block 32(fuel trims) are both reading zero all the time even before reseting it so problem so it indicates a problem

[G60_edge 0]

Yes, 3 wires on alternator. Battery, clocks and ECU.

Interesting about the N249, when connected and plumbed in it limits boost in standard form from what I remember when looking. I could try a resistor across it and see if it runs different. Have you tried disconnecting yours to see if the fault code limits boost?

Connect up the alternator and see if that fixes you ECU relay code, otherwise we can compare wiring of the ECU power. The G60 is different to the TT as you have the fuel pump and ECU relay whereas the TT just had the fuel pump relay from what I can remember from the wiring diagram. So there are options on which you use. Can't see it mattering but you never know.

 

Does your throttle body whine with the ignition on?

 

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk

[dannyboy 0]

my TB does mapake a constant high pitch whine when i turn ignition on,thinks thats quite normal,you just dont hear it once engine is started.

 

My g60 ecu relay isnt used for anything now.

 

Im meant when you disconnect the n249 valve it puts the ecu in limp mode and tells the n75 valve to open the wastegate sooner.All ive done is connected the n112 valve onto N249 connector(because none came with the engine and valves are the same) and put a length of pipe straight from the DV to the inlet manifold.

You have the APX wiring diagram as well from what i gather on pdf.

 

Did you know there a second one thats slighty differnet and ive just solved my own question again,apx does in fact have ecu relay and i know which wire it is

[dannyboy 0]

Got the resistors in the post this morning,ended up with 100 33ohm ones(so ill have 99 spare) and 3 pretty big 330 ohm 11w ones.

well off to finish the wiring today as im on holiday now,Yes!!!

[coupe16v 10]

Just encase you hadn't sorted the rev counter issue; I connected the ecu tacho output straight to the original clocks. (I cannot remember ecu pinouts atm)

Works perfectly, however mine is a 1990 1.8 16v so I have no idea if your clocks are different at all?

The wire that I connected it to ran across the scuttle panel alongside my fuel pump relay earth. (the four pin plug)

[dannyboy 0]

mine is a 1990 so mine will be the excat same.from 1991 onwards the clocks changed.Where have you conected it to? U1/6 directly or to g1/12(red/Black)?

 

---------- Post added at 10:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:26 AM ----------

 

So green/Red T121/81 to g1/12 will get the rev counter working normal?

[G60_edge 0]

So green/Red T121/81 to g1/12 will get the rev counter working normal?

 

Thats what I've done and it doesn't work for me, g1/12 is green/yellow though (in the bay). My rev counter moves but the scaling and sensitivity are wrong. I'm 92 G60 though so think late clocks. What defines early/late clocks is it the digital odometer?

I thought I was going to get away without an adpator on late clocks.

 

I'm intrigued about this green wire on U1/6 what does it actually do?

[G60_edge 0]

Answered my own question

The green wire is the in cabin connection from fuse box to clock for the tach.

I was getting confused with a spare green wire I had in the engine bay. For my G60 ECU it looks like the green wire to pin 16 is something to do with the A/C.

[dannyboy 0]

Thats what I've done and it doesn't work for me, g1/12 is green/yellow though (in the bay). My rev counter moves but the scaling and sensitivity are wrong. I'm 92 G60 though so think late clocks. What defines early/late clocks is it the digital odometer?

I thought I was going to get away without an adpator on late clocks.

 

I'm intrigued about this green wire on U1/6 what does it actually do?

 

U1/6 goes directly to the rev counter generator.g1/12 is red/black on earlier cars that goes to the fuse box which then connects through the constant positive on the ecu relay which then connects to U1/6 green then to the tacho.i dont know if they used the same driver

 

i have now three fault codes-warning lamp,crash signal and abs controller.

as soon as the other codes were cleared after sorting out wiring and resistors,the lambda controller started working straight away. Yes!!! it has a bit of a habbit now after driving to rev up slighty then drop again(funny feeling its to do with the DFM on the alternator wiring now its connected)

 

---------- Post added at 10:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:47 PM ----------

 

:lol: spent so long writing you replied before i did!

[G60_edge 0]

no worries,

That's interestign about the lambda working after the fault codes going. I wasn't going to bother with the remaining fault codes I had and get them coded out when remappped. I'll check my lambda in more detail as I might have to change my plan.

Good info, cheers.

Good fun driving with the new engine though!

[dannyboy 0]

quite interesting i found that the T121 ecu has two tacho outputs so i will try the other one out tomorrow.will report back with my findings

[dannyboy 0]

i can confirm that it doesnt work either(pin 37) so all rpms output require current sink to work but at least i got my abs working again!just in time before the bad weather is due.

[Alex_G60_Fanatic 0]

quite interesting i found that the T121 ecu has two tacho outputs

 

Use you Burrito cable in the taco ports... then dip it in the chilli sensor

[dannyboy 0]

:lol: