Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
PhatVR6

Was, Schrick VGI GB, now show us yours!

Recommended Posts

The leads should be long enough to fit in the plastic guides- they don't have to travel any further with the shrek installed. looks much neater too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah I tried doing that with the leads but it's tight under there. The Schrick squashes the leads if you don't route them carefully around the fuel rail. I muddled up the leads and ended up putting the short ones at the front, doh! I'll sort it out at some point!

 

Yeah you can mount the controller inside the car, it's just tapping into the loom a long distance away from the ECU plug it doesn't like for some reason. So long as you make the joins at the actual ECU plug, doesn't matter where you mount it but I'll just be sticking mine on top of the alarm probably. Easy to get to if required!

 

K

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not me, still awaiting delivery. :( Serves me right for waiting till the last minute to order a rear vt engine mount now I need to wait for that and theyll get sent at once.

No Samcos till Tuesday either, my gimp brother wouldnt get out of bed the other morning to answer the door so im left with a card from parcel force. :mad:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mine's being sent on Tuesday, and is costing me about £30 more in postage :(

 

Still not sure whether to fit it and sort the engine mount afterwards or wait until I have the mount on first. Bear in mind the standard mounts haven't covered too many miles.....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The front engine mount is the most important, as it's the one under tension when you're accelerating. The two rear mounts are just under compression, which is at least not going to suffer a catastrophic failure...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wish I was mate.

 

Treble checked the installation, nothing wrong there.

 

I wasn't expecting a huge improvement anyway due to the engine running so badly prior to the install, but I was hoping to feel some kind of difference.

 

Do you get a loud hissing noise from you manifold at idle?

 

K

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It does seem to make a noise, yeah. I've not noticed it being that loud though. The ISV damper valve should hiss anyway, AFAIK.

It looks to me like the TB is actually phsyically in a slightly different location now that the VGI is on, further from the top of the engine block. I noticed that the top hose that goes to the heater matrix from the back of the head was quite stretched where it went through the clips on the ISV (I think). I took it out of the clips, cos I already lost *one* of those hoses, and I don't wanna lose another one...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Kev, have you got any vacuum leaks? Just that someone on the golf forum had a problem with one of the vaccum lines into the vaccum tank which didn't fit v. well. Is the power crap low down or high up or both and its it switching ok?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Kev's power has been crap for some time, so I'd suspect that first, rather than the Schrick not performing right.

After all, even if the schrick never switches at all, it's default state is the tuned inlet for 0-4000rpm running.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah the TB is also closer to the exhaust manifold too :roll:

 

Mine also pinks at 3000rpm as Vince warned. Hopefully Mike's old AmD ECU will get rid of that......and then I'll have Vince look at the engine when he's doing the chains/clutch. I know there is more to come but it'll probably mean a new engine knowing my luck with this car.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Kev, have you got any vacuum leaks? Just that someone on the golf forum had a problem with one of the vaccum lines into the vaccum tank which didn't fit v. well. Is the power crap low down or high up or both and its it switching ok?

 

I think I have. The engine has always hunted around 2000 since I've had it and everybody elses VR's I've tried have idles which pull down to rest slowly and gracefully. Mine drop like a brick every time except when cold when there's more fuel there to 'fill the gap'.

 

I'm suspecting the brake servo, for three reasons:-

 

1) Mine brakes are shit. I nearly went through the screen when driving Supercharged's G60.

 

2) Ever since putting the Schrick on, the brakes have improved! Firmer pedal and more bite.....so there's a link somewhere here. Maybe my servo bellows are knackered and the extra vacuum afforded by the schrick is pulling harder on the bellows?

 

3) When replacing the brake positon sensor, it just came out no probs. When Supercharged did his....he really had to pull on it and when it popped out there was an almight whoosh.

 

Never known a VW servo to break before though but it's looking like that's were my leak is potentially coming from......

 

K

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And now it's chucking it down so I can't go and look :x

 

You know you said you declined to have your head rebuilt when at Stealth? Was there reason to suspect it was worn out then?

 

Just going through a list of possibles.....and there's loads of em on th VR!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No, no reason to suspect. Vince's experience just said that a lot of VRs are in need of it when they reach this mileage.

But I pointed out that there's not much seepage around the head gasket, and that it uses maybe two litres at most of oil every 10k miles, so it doesn't seem like it's worth it...

Also, I noted that a head rebuild doesn't replicate much labour with the timing chains - i.e. you don't have to pull the gearbox off to take the top off the engine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK. Mine uses more oil than that but I wouldn't say the head is totally past it, but the odd misfiring kind of sensations at 1000, 2000 and 4000 rpm feel mechanically induced to me. Lord only knows I've been through enough plugs, leads and CPs to outrule those.....

 

I'm thinking burnt out exhaust valves but it's easy to speculate before lifting the head to find out for sure....

 

What did comfort me was Vince telling me about a VR6 customer that rebuilt *everything*, block, head box etc to cure a drivetrain related rattle. A few grand later, the rattle remained! Gutting!

 

K

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have to say I'm still convinced that you've slipped a cam tooth and it'll all be fine again when you've had it retimed and the chains done...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Meanwhile:

ECP - Genuine Corrado P.S. Rack £339.45

Reconditioned Rack £180

GSF - Genuine Golf 3 VR6/GTi/16V rack £229

 

What's the odds the G3 part won't fit the corrado?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You could be right....just have to be patient and let Vince look at it....

 

Yep the GSF rack will fit the corrado as it's the same part number.

 

K

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well that's not so painful then... £230 + theft plus what 2 hours? For the real VW badged thing.. Sounds good to me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...