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PhatVR6

Was, Schrick VGI GB, now show us yours!

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pookyvr6, when I asked Star about it im sure he said 1500+vat for the schrick fitted but the remap was 250+vat on top of that so it came in at just over 2000.

As for the clearance issue, Jim at Star said its not a big problem, it may rub slightly but dont worry about it. An upgraded front engine mount is a must though.

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I've been in two Schrick equipped VRs and there was no evidence of bonnet fouling....so I guess it's down to individual circumstances as no two cars are exactly the same.

 

If you've got decent engine mounts the Schrick shouldn't hit the bonnet, but a little 'clearancing' might be wise.

 

One thing to consider with the Schrick is more torque = more power and thus more engine heat so an oil cooler might be wise.

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It is not absolutley essential that the car gets remapped (chipped) immediatley altough desirable at some point. Some cars will be better than others on the current chip. Point to look out for would be pinking at or near the 3000rpm point,(normally 75% + throttle position) this is not good, the engines do have knock sensors but if pinking is evident it means that they are just not coping

 

 

So basically it might pink it might not, if it does it definately needs remapped, if it doesn't pink a remap isnt neccesary but would improve things further.

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Hard to say really... the Schrick was designed to be a bolt-on mod with no post-fitment maintenance, other than removing it to change the sparkplugs. But as some people have found and as Vince pointed out, you can get a bit of pinking when you open it up at 3000rpm. But to be honest, I've heard my standard VR pink at 3000rpm last summer, so it's a suck-it-and-see thing....

 

The remap is especially beneficial for the change over point in the induction tuning. It will be more seemless with more fuel to fill-in the hole as the air fluctuates during change over. K star do a standalone fuelling module that is specifically designed for the Schrick....it's pretty good by all accounts and cheaper than chipping.

 

K

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Is there a noticeable change when the flow changes at 4000rpm, similar to the vtec coming in on a Honda?

Will my fueling be any different considering I'm running a supercharger chip- will this be beneficial as it probably runs a bit richer than a stock chip or does it depend on the car as each engine is different?

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Phat - what's the time limit for numbers on this matey??

 

Edit:

 

The deadline for making your decision is Friday 12 March. Deposits of 20% need to be paid to Vince at Stealth Racing no later than Wednesday 17 March.

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No it's not as noticable as the VTEC cam lobe change-over, you won't really notice much to be honest....just a very slight step in the power delivery.....chipping or the K star change-over module is designed to iron that out but most people are happy with the way it is.

 

So you're going to run the blower aswell as the VGI? Your current chip should be fine but if you get any weird engine behaviour, you might want to get it chipped to optimise engine to run both in harmony with eachother.

 

You'll be so chuffed with the VGI that you won't need the blower anymore and you can sell it to me :-)

 

K

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dr_mat, the splines are only a few quid from Halfords and i have 3kits with the same size spline supplied in each, it's a common size spline, how are you having trouble finding one?

 

There is a slightley different angle at the throttle body, this won't really make much difference to you unless you have a supercharger!

 

Set an hour or so to one side Tom & you'll be fine, it's very easy & self explanatory and only requires basic tools and a spline kit.

 

 

Chris

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Yes I want to run the charger and the vgi, mainly to improve driveability a low revs as it has plenty at the top end and maybe get some cams later.

I've read somewhere there are some nuts/bolts on the inside of the manifold which need loctiting on so they don't get sucked into the engine. Anyone heard of this?

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As for fitting it, well first off you need one of those damn spline keys that you can't find for less than £20 anywhere..!

 

Apologies if you already know this, but if you mean to remove the top plastic engine cover & HT lead guides the bit you want is known variously as XZN-8, "triple sqaure" or (12) spline bit in 8mm - I got one for 4 quid from local big trade tool supplies place. They sold 'em singly (Teng Tool ones) or they're in a Draper set with various other sizes...

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That's the one - I've only seen the spline set in Halfords' "professional" range which they sell for about £25.. Didn't wanna spend that much for just one key!

I also need an M8 bolt to deal with the aux belt tensioner..

(Oh and a garage and ramps would be useful too.. :) )

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A few notes from my own personal experience.

 

When I first fitted it, I noticed a HUGE gain in mid range torque, and found out I didn't have to rev the car hard at all. Note that also fitted 268 cams at the same time and my ECU was already chipped as it hit the limiter at 7200.

 

I went to santa pod in the car (the first day I had it on the road, officially :wink: ) and noticed it felt a bit flat about 4000rpm. I put this down to the cams, but carried on regardless. anyway. on a few roundabouts on the way to the pod I noticed tha car seemed to be really flying, but on others it felt a bit flat, but I couldn't work out what it was. I had a sh1t days racing, only got a few runs in, and my times were poor, high 14's all day. Anyway, on the way home, the sun had gone down a bit and I noticed I could see the light on the schrick controller. and it wasn't changing colour about 4000rpm (i.e, the manifold wasn't switching). I pulled into the services to fix it and my mates carried on. I sorted it (bad connection) and couldn't belive the power! The mid range grunt was still there, but the top end poke due to the cams was now evident and it was flying! I tried to catch my mates up, but got pulled for speeding. Unfortunatley, 4000rpm in top on mine is 100mph, and that's when the power was really coming in. Hd a bit of a play with some pr1ck in a jag who wouldn't leave me alone, and ended up getting pulled at 132.35mph!!

 

Did a track day at Kames, for the clubgti national day. I did most of the track in 3rd gear, using the midrange to smoothly pull me round the corners (as opposed to ringing it's neck and spinning the wheels). managed to get a 3rd place!

 

after the 6 week ban was over, I did curborough too, and again, the torque I had was immense. I could spin both wheels in second gear from one corner to the next (keeping it under control due to the diff).

 

although it was an all out racer, I did drive it daily. and the mid range grunt was utterly fantastic. when I took the cams, schrick and gearbox off the car before I sold it it felt awful. I took it for one last run up the road and I couldn't believe how gutless it felt.

 

It managed a peak of185lbs/ft at 3500 on my 2.9, and gave my mates 2.8 an extra 30lbs/ft at about 3300rpm. he was nearly crying when I took it back off him.

 

all in all, a fantastic peice of kit for the VR6 engine that works wonders with cams, but also gives huge mid range gains.

 

not a horsepower or drag racing mod, but if you drive your vr6 daily you'll not regret buying a schrick VGI.

 

An electronics expert mate of mine is currently developing anew controller, with an adustable dial and digital readout of the switching rpm.

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Blimey Phat, my essay style posting is obviously rubbing off on you.......:-)

 

Right......definite numbers everybody please......

 

So far:-

 

Me

Tom (VR6)

?

?

?

?

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I'd love to. Honest. But really.. Another grand?

Jeez..

 

Better than £1500+ VAT

 

As someone else mentioned, what other VR6 mod is going to give you 20% extra torque lower down the rav range for £1000?

 

Quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten :-)

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.. and then there's the fact that I can sell it on for erm.. a grand .. later on down the line..

stop it kev! I can't afford it!

:(

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£1000 is out of the question for me at the moment :(

 

but i have a few questions incase i buy one later (all be it at the full price :( )

 

You have to take this thing off every time to change the spark plugs?

 

if its more air and fuel....will this completely wreck the MPG?

 

if i do need an oil cooler as a result, can the cooler be fitted anywhere else but infront of the radiator ( i have the extra aircon rad there so no room for an oil cooler)

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It's more air and fuel, jedi, but you're doing it at lower revs, so you will probably get more MPG..

You only need an oil cooler if you drive the car harder, doesn't matter so much if you drive it the same way, just using lower revs. Ok you might argue that at lower revs there's less oil circulation, but then, try it and see...

It's not the cash for me - I can "obtain" the cash from my rainy-day-or-corrado-fund, but it's the thought of throwing another £1k at a car that I've no confidence in at the moment. Maybe I'll feel better after getting Stealth near it for some timing chains fairy dust, but right now it feels like an OLD car. :(

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cheers dr_mat, unfortunately my hidden funds are not ear marked for the corrado!

 

bare in mind though that your buying a bolt on product...you can always put it on you current car and then swap it to another car in the future...or sell it...etc.

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I've been in two Schrick equipped VRs and there was no evidence of bonnet fouling....so I guess it's down to individual circumstances as no two cars are exactly the same.

 

If you've got decent engine mounts the Schrick shouldn't hit the bonnet, but a little 'clearancing' might be wise.

 

 

this is from the golfvr6 site regarding the 'will it fit' question

 

Corrado's: The VSR (VGI) hits the bonnet structual reinforcement brace, when we fit to Corrado's we fettle away with a die grinder part of this structure but still maintaining it's strength and purpose.. I've seen a few Corrado's that have had manifolds fitted elsewhere that have this brace hammered back, DON'T be tempted to do this as you run a risk of damaging the bonnet skin.

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Come on you party poopers, get your wallets out :lol:

 

The ONLY reason I am buying one is because it's £1080 including VAT, and not £1500 PLUS VAT!

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