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tentonhammer

Battery dead. Central locking not responding as result. Locked out of car!!

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Hi guys,

 

I haven't used my Corrado 16V 2.0 for about 3 weeks, I drive a motorbike as well and have been using this lately, went to open the rado up this afternoon with my central locking key fob and nothing happened - the doors didn't unlock and I got no beep indicating the alarm had been turned off as I usually get. So, I changed the battery in the key fob and tried again - Again nothing happened.

 

The rado has an alarm fitted to it (not sure what type) and I suspect this has drained the car battery while it has sat idle for a few weeks. Problem is I can't access the car using my key either! The door handles have no keyhole on them and are painted the same colour as the car (The car was bought this way) and the key doesn't seem to work in the boot either?? If I could get into the boot I could pop the hood and replace the battery unlock central locking etc, but I can't get into the car at all! I'd hoped the key would simply unlock the boot but it doesn't seem to do anything. The boot lock itself won't turn left or right but does push in. At present the keyhole is in the horizontal position.

 

Questions:

 

If the central locking bombs out due to a dead car battery while the boot's keyhole is in the horizontal position, would this lock you out of the boot all together? I would have thought I could turn the key into the Vertical position (even with the central locking on or if the battery had died) to open the boot manually but I can't turn the key at all. It seems to be locked in the horizontal position and won't budge.

 

Is there a way of popping the hood without opening the car doors so that I can remove the battery?

 

How do I get enough charge into the battery from outside the car so I can unlock the central locking? I.e using a 12V Battery for instance, negative to starter motor, earthing to chassis etc. Anyone done something similar?

 

As the door handles don't have keyholes on them, I was wondering what the door handles might be, or what car they might be from? I'd imagine there are only so many door handles you can fit to a Corrado. They look like they could be Passat one's and as I understand the have hidden keyholes on. I've had a good look at the handles I can't seem to pop anything off to reveal (potentially) a hidden keyhole. Is there a special tool required to do this? I will put pics of the door handles on tomorrow, too dark for a pic now.

 

If anyone can help me or just share your thoughts on this before I tape the rear side window up and smash the damn thing in that would be great.

 

Cheers,

 

Ten Ton

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Not sure about the boot, it should open manually using the key.

 

But you can get the bonnet open from the outside, but means wrecking (lucky if you dont) the grille.

 

-Force the grille off - may have to destroy it

-Find the bonnet cable - normally its up agains the slam panel and has a black sleeve.

-Then pull the cable towards the centre of the car - pull the passenger side towards the drivers side and drivers side towards the passenger side. This should release the bonnet.

 

For future reference the drivers side is reachable from under the car, i had to get the car on ramps once and using a long thin metal rod, i pushed the pin release lever to relase the drivers side. Unfortunately the passenger side isnt.

 

PS - i think the boot lock has to be vertical to open -if thats any help. not sure why yours wont turn. The boot should close when the lock is in the locked position but also the lock should be able to operate with the key even with CL working - mine is.

Edited by Critical_Mass

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^^^^ :lol: Beat me to it

 

 

Hello there, don't suppose you have any other keys to try in the boot? To be honest I've never had any vw's that had working key locks on the boot, they always rust up internally and jam up. Sounds like you have passat handles but i could be wrong, a way to get power to the car would be to remove the grill and gain access to the bonnet release wires. You would have to take care not to break the clips on the grill but it would be cheaper and easier to replace than the window.

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Not tried it personally but if you get another battery and a set of jump leads, crawl under the car and connect the negative to an earth point on the car and the live to the live terminal on the starter motor or solenoid it should push current through the system to allow you to use the alarm fob.

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Not tried it personally but if you get another battery and a set of jump leads, crawl under the car and connect the negative to an earth point on the car and the live to the live terminal on the starter motor or solenoid it should push current through the system to allow you to use the alarm fob.

 

+1 to this... Was just thinking about this.... Best option

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Fair play if it works. If not, the grille option.

 

---------- Post added at 10:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:22 PM ----------

 

Anyone else wondering if ten ton has smashed the window, just a thought considering the lack of reply from the OP

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best way and easy to access: unscrew the rear number plate light holder on the boot, pull out the bulbs and connect some jump leads or a booster pack/ spare battery to the positive and the negative wires accordingly, this will put power through the system and the fob will work :-)

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Man I love this forum ;)

 

Thanks guys for your thoughts and help on this. Still can't believe I'm locked out of my own car... and I even have the key!

 

In response:

 

Critical_Mass - I thought about going through the grille to pop the hood. Only problem with this is, the car has a custom grille on the front painted the same colour as the car. Removing it from the outside will most certainly damage it or at the very least mess up the paint work. Wouldn't mind if it was a stock one but it isn't. BTW Haven't got the brick out yet, thought better of it... More like discovered this morning it would cost a f*@king bomb if I did! - Small Rear Side Panel glass, Cost: £447.00. Rado glass is NOT cheap. Thought about cutting the seal and removing it myself, will have to check with German & Swedish on cost for replacement seal. Could maybe pull one on my insurance if worst comes to worst, but that would mean going against everything I believe in eh... ;)

 

elliot - The boot was opened a month ago with the key (I think, wasn't me that opened it I was already in the drivers seat). Might have been in central locking position (horizontal) so key hole just needed to be pressed in to open boot. I will confirm this. BTW I have no other key.

 

Wullie - External 12V battery to starter motor. This is certainly my preferred option. Slight problem with this though - My jack's in the back of the car and the rado is pretty much on the floor! To all members: Do you know where the starter motor or solenoid would be located if I could get underneath the car? I'll probably be able to identify it but a heads up would be nice. I'll have to nab a jack from somewhere as well, unless of course I work out how to turn myself into a tool weilding puddle.

 

GCDG60 - I don't have a rear number plate down light. The rear has also been smoothed, the car was bought this way. I would have thought though that you would be putting too much load through the lighting circuit? Might end up frying your relays, I'd be careful doing this, could be wrong though...

 

Given up on the door handles being passat one's as well. Thought about it last night - the only key I have is ignition and boot (though for some reason the boot refuses to co-operate at the moment). Even if the door handles were off a Passat and they did have hidden keyholes on them, my key would propbaly be useless anyway? Assuming of course lock mechanism was replaced aswel. I've never replaced or swapped door handles before so not sure.

 

Wish so badly I could get in through the boot... No matter how hard I try the lock won't urn in either direction. Pushing it in does nothing aswel.

Edited by tentonhammer

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Ok so I wrote a fairly lengthy reply to you all this morning but for some reason it hasn't appeared on the thread yet???? I'm new to the forum, coulda hit the wrong button. Lets try again shall we!

 

Big thank you guys for your help on this. I'll def be getting a new battery anyway, might as well rig it up to the starter motor and see if I can open the car with the central locking first.

 

The front grille's a painted custom, same colour as the car. If I try to remove it I bet it can't be done without damaging the grille or at the very least the grille paintwork.

 

Going through the glass just isn't an option - Small rear side window will cost £447.00, the door glass £500.00. Ouch! No way...

 

As for going through boot, I haven't got any other key, just the one used for ignition. Tried getting into the boot again and the thing ain't gonna budge. I'm not able to turn the key keft or right, only inwards which does sweet F.A.

 

Don't have a light above the rear plate, it's all smooth so can't rig the 12V up through there. I'd be careful doing this anyway, you don't want to overload the lighting circuit, fry your relays etc. I'll stick to the starter motor

 

It's dark by the time I get home so will have to wait for the w/e before attempting a legal break in...

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Good luck mate. But if it was me id rather spoil the grille than fry any wires etc or have to replace a window at that price. BUT a second hand window could be an option could it not?

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Twisted irony = The jack needed to boost my car up so I can attach the 12V and jump leads to the starter motor etc - is in the boot.

 

If only I could get into the damn boot?!! Gotta laugh at that sh*t huh

 

---------- Post added at 03:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:34 PM ----------

 

Critical_Mass - If the 12V doesn't work (spoke to a few garages that have recommened this) I'm going through the grille for def. Even if I gotta put a stock one on for a while afterwards it's alot cheaper than forking out 500 big ones for a new window. Would be interested to know how much a second hand one would cost?

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100% do the jump lead on starter and earth, can you not borrow a jack from a friend? It only needs to lift it high enough to clip the jump leads on so any old standard jack will do.

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Swiftkid - I'll have to! Have you ever done jump lead to starter and earth before? Will certainly be a first for me... Done my homework though and it seems logical.

 

At least on a motorbike you can't lock your self out! I love the rado, what can I say...

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elliott: Live jump lead to starter body = Fire works. Sounds pretty rad to me

 

---------- Post added at 03:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:03 PM ----------

 

Waiting on some day light and a spare 12V before I can get started on this...

Edited by tentonhammer

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Removing the front grille to get to the dead 12V is def the way to go, it's fiddly but with the right amount patience you can get it off (with the hood down) in a matter of minutes.

 

So - If you happen to lock yourself out of your car because the car battery is dead and you are unable to unlock the car via central locking fob, or key etc - This is what you do....

 

Process:

 

1) Grab top edge of front grille on left and right side, gently pull outwards towards you. If it isn't budging, wriggle it a bit working it outwards at the same time. If you do end up snapping the clips doing this so what? Just tie the grille back on afterwards with some cable ties, you can do this internally so you won't even notice them. It does mean however if you lock yourself out again you'll have to break the whole grille off next time. See pics for clip and hole locations.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]49989[/ATTACH]

 

2) When you've got the top edge of the grille out lift the whole thing upwards towards your face to remove it completely from the car.

 

3) Locate hood cable. This is located at the roof of the grille cavity, it's a long black cable that runs horizontally along the front of the car just above the rad. Pop the hood by pulling right side of hood cable left, and left side of hood cable right, pulling down towards the floor slightly when you do this. See pic. You will here a click for each if done correctly. Open the hood.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]49990[/ATTACH]

 

4) Remove dead car battery - Negative terminal first.

 

5) Charge car battery. If it can't be charged then get a new one.

 

6) Fit battery back into car - Positive first.

 

7) Fit grille and close the hood. Open the doors with your central locking fob.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]49991[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]49993[/ATTACH]

 

8) Crack open cold one, admire handy work.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]49992[/ATTACH]

 

And there you go! Job done.

 

Note: Make sure battery isn't dead in key fob before doing any of this. If there is an alarm on the car this may go off the moment you connect the battery, it didn't for me but it might for you! My alarm did immobilize the car though, a simple reset of the alarm sorted this out.

 

Ten Ton,

Edited by tentonhammer

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It sounds like you have a 'valet' key and not the 'master' key. The valet key will open the drivers door and start the car, it won't open the boot or the glove-box.

 

The expensive solution is to visit you local VW dealer where they should/might have a machine that will cut a master key based on your chassis number. I did this a few years back, their key cutting machine had long since broken but they knew of a person with one of these machines. It wasn't as expensive as you'd think somewhere between £20 and £30.

 

Speaking from personal experience, I'd then go and get another copy of the master key cut at your local locksmiths and keep it in a safe place.

 

Neil

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