Problems with charging

[sam2.0 10]

My other thread seems to have died, so thought I'd try again.

 

Basically, my car was draining charge from the battery when ever it was on. I got the battery checked out at 3 places, who all said it was the alternator.

 

I've now changed the alternator, albeit to an other second hand one (seller confirmed it outputted 14v on his car), and still the battery is losing charge.

 

So, assuming the battery and alternator are ok, what else can it be? Ground, cable? What do I need to check? (the more layman's terms the better!)

[james153 0]

Does that battery die whilst the car is running mate? Or does it just drain very quickly after use?

[fla 9]

Firstly, as James153 says.

If you can, remove the black (-ve) cable from the battery and put an ammeter between this and the battery and read the current, all with the ignition off. Post that reading. Then ignition on, engine off, same reading. Then back to ignition off and post that reading.

[sam2.0 10]

Does that battery die whilst the car is running mate? Or does it just drain very quickly after use?

 

The battery can be seen draining while its running. While its off, it holds the current charge.

 

---------- Post added at 3:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 3:36 PM ----------

 

fla, will get the details tonight

 

---------- Post added at 5:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 3:37 PM ----------

 

So, I get 0.69amps between the negative terminal and cable all off.

 

With the ignition on but not the engine it's 4.82. And I need to chare the battery for the final reading.

[james153 0]

0.69 amps is very high for a drain, 4.8 isnt too bad with the ignition on. My 16v drains 0.1 A. which is still quite high. if it dies whilst running then youre not charging properly, an alternator delivers upto 90amps, only a short would drain that, but that would cause some sort of fire.

My guess if youve changed the alternator is that youve got a poor earth or another faulty alternator.

 

Hope this is of help.

[quicky1980 0]

sounds silly, but can the removed alternator be tested somehow? Maybe an electric drill fitted somehow to spin it up. That way you could check it off the engine and check if its alternator fault or wiring??

 

I'm hoping that I didnt damage the alternator I sent you during removal. :scratch:

[james153 0]

Best way to isolate the alternator to test is to check the voltage from the back of the alternator to a known good earth, as opposed to just across the battery. anything around 13-14 is fine. failing that you'd need a pretty beefy ammeter to measure the charging current.

[sam2.0 10]

Will get it charged tomorrow, so I can test this weekend.

 

Any other ideas?

[sam2.0 10]

Brand new alternator fitted, still not charging. Going to start pulling fuses.

 

Any other ideas?

[Wild-Animal 0]

If you can then it could be worth getting a auto electrician, save you wasting time and money finding the fault. They have the equipment.

[destructiv dave 0]

Might be shooting in the dark here, but from memory (been away from cars for 5 years) there should be a blue wire that goes from the alternator to either the clocks or near to the fusebox. This is integral to your charging circuit and if it is not connected/damaged, then your battery will not charge.

 

---------- Post added at 11:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 9:30 PM ----------

 

Sam,

 

I just checked a wiring diagram I have (from some russian site) and the blue wire goes to Fuse/Relay pin F/3. Then looking at the schematic, pin F/3 connects to the instrument cluster pin #16 (which is also a blue wire). I'll try and dig out what F/3 relates to but presume it means pin 3 of one of the wiring blocks that comes from the engine side designated as block F (there are only about 4 or 5 for the engine loom).

 

If you have access to a multimeter then I would suggest that you check the continuity between the blue wire on the alternator and pin F/3 and then again between pin 16 on the blocks at either end of the lead between the fusebox and cluster.

 

This is basically what you would be paying an auto-electrician sacks of money for!!

 

David

[sam2.0 10]

Going to try these fuses first, if not, it'll go to a specialist.

 

---------- Post added at 11:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:18 PM ----------

 

David, any more info would be great. Sounds like a good test to do.

 

I'd rather not pay someone, hence why I just got a new alternator. I imagine I'll spend hundred and still not have an answer!

[james153 0]

Where abouts are you located mate?

[sam2.0 10]

South oxford

[dannyboy 0]

Blue wire turns the 'idiot light' on the dash out to indicate alternator field is excited and ur voltage is over battery voltage ie over 13 volts.however it won't indicate how many amps its putting out.in other words the cables may be high resistance to the battery.feel them.if their quite hot u have a high resistance fault.also check for corrosion around the earth terminals and cables

[destructiv dave 0]

David, any more info would be great. Sounds like a good test to do.

 

Sam,

 

On this diagram http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html, you can see that the blue exciter wire is pin 3 of block F. The blue wire then goes from pin 12 of U2 to pin 16 of the block that connects into the cluster.

 

Take it from me - the blue wire is part of the charging circuit. If it isn't connected, corroded etc. then the circuit isn't complete and your alternator will not charge your battery.

 

David

Edited March 21, 2012 by destructiv dave
Helps if I attach the link!!

[sam2.0 10]

Sam,

 

On this diagram http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html, you can see that the blue exciter wire is pin 3 of block F. The blue wire then goes from pin 12 of U2 to pin 16 of the block that connects into the cluster.

 

Take it from me - the blue wire is part of the charging circuit. If it isn't connected, corroded etc. then the circuit isn't complete and your alternator will not charge your battery.

 

David

Where the hell is that? I only know where the fuse box is, looks nothing like that.

 

Whats the block that connects to the cluster? Can't see any pin 16's at all.

Edited March 21, 2012 by sam2.0

[destructiv dave 0]

Where the hell is that? I only know where the fuse box is, looks nothing like that.

 

Whats the block that connects to the cluster? Can't see any pin 16's at all.

 

That diagram is of the rear of the fuse box - where all the wires connect into it.

 

The block that connects to the cluster is the black wiring block that goes into the back of the clocks. The other end of the wire is the two blue connecters (U1 and U2).

 

Hope this makes sense.

[sam2.0 10]

I got 10v from the black cable to f/3.

[destructiv dave 0]

Which black wire do you mean?

 

F/3 should be a blue wire.

[sam2.0 10]

Sorry, blue. The blue one on the alternator to f/3

[destructiv dave 0]

Quick check then - does your battery light come on with the ignition?

[sam2.0 10]

I think it comes on, then goes off once started. I've only ever seen it flash when giving it a few beans.

[sam2.0 10]

Bump

[quicky1980 0]

Have you cleaned all the contacts for the wiring between the alternator and battery, including earth points?

 

the wiring on these is dead simple from what I can see. have you tried running wires directly from the alternator to the batter (bypass the cars wiring)