pobmk4 10 Posted May 5, 2012 Awesome work Baz, get everything measured up for mine while you're in there!! funny i was going to ask you are you fitting the mk4 handbrake lever setup as i hate the corrado one, its a wee bit flimsy!! good to see its going to work anyway!! :) :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bazmcc 0 Posted May 5, 2012 The Corrado one is like tin foil compared to the mk4 one. Hopefully it'll be sturdy enough with 2 bolts in. If not i might need to add the third one. Would like a black carpet too after everything is ready to go back in. I wonder are the carpets discontinued? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pobmk4 10 Posted May 5, 2012 i think you'll need the 3 as it will start to pull at an angle!! something tells me they are as i looked for complete new flooring for mine and most of it was obsolete.... and any bits that werent.... I BOUGHT!! lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
24V Renshaw 0 Posted May 6, 2012 Good progress. As I mentioned previously use a TT shifter, it already has the 1" backward offset on the shaft, otherwise it's identical to the Mk4 Jay Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bazmcc 0 Posted May 6, 2012 Jay have you got a pic of the tt one? I tried to search and found nothing. Not even sure if 1" is enough clearance but i'd like to test it. I'll have a look at everything on tuesday evening. Loads of new braiding has arrived that i was waiting on. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bazmcc 0 Posted May 11, 2012 Took the dash out last night and refitted the airbox back in. I also fitted the steering column and measured it up. I'm going to add 6" to the top part which is extendable and 1.5" to the part that bolts to the rack. See previous pics to see what I'm on about. I have all the wires from the bay pulled through into the cabin now. I took the ABS controller off the A pillar so I have better access to the wiring. When I removed it I noticed a little bit of corrosion on a couple of the pins. Being a bit anal I'm going to have to open that to make sure I haven't got a broken pin on the back side on the board. Hopefully it just needs a clean. I also got the indicator loom braided and got the loom for the horn and load reduction coil done as well. They'll go down the wing together as they plug in right beside each other. Then they'll route along the cross member to the fuse box. Progress has slowed slightly as I have a lot of other stuff happening but I'll try to get a big push on this week and see what I can get done. ---------- Post added at 10:43 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:24 AM ---------- Remount relay holder where MK4 airbag was. Fix or replace broken relay holder. Mount wiring protectors/runners on crossmember. Buy clip to replace broken one on bonnet latch pull. Test fit the airbox to dash vent adapter (big bit on the front of the airbox) and measure it as it needs to be modified and extended to clear the crossmember. Look into better soundproofing to replace the old sagging crap in the car already. Suss out a solution to the plastic sheeting needing replaced in the doors. Take the shifter box to the engineer. Take the steering column to the engineer. File out hole in handbrake bracket to align handbrake straight. Make bracket for 3rd handbrake bolt. Open and check ABS controller. Seperate looms out of rubber grommet on passengers side. Make loom for dash vent illumination. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yandards 0 Posted May 11, 2012 Nice work so far, I think a guy called PAB on Club GTi did something similar with a mk2 Golf (Seat Leon dash IIRC), so as the bulkhead is the same if you run into any real headaches he might be the guy to ask! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bazmcc 0 Posted May 11, 2012 Unfortunately the MK2 golf and Leon are both a little different to this setup but I'll keep the name in mind. (my engine build is on club gti) Looking back at the thread I don't think there have been any major headaches that aren't fixable (I'm sure now that I've said that, it will all change). The wiring is just time consuming. Well, I suppose if I wasn't working on my engine bay as well, the process would be a lot faster. The doorcards might be tough to finish but I'm sure I'll manage. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bazmcc 0 Posted May 13, 2012 Bit more wiring work done on friday night but other than that it's been slow progress. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bazmcc 0 Posted May 21, 2012 Didn't get much done at the weekend due to braiding a full R32 engine loom for someone. I got a small loom done for the illuminated dash vents on the MK4 dash. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bazmcc 0 Posted May 24, 2012 Change of plans with the handbrake. I cut 2 notches out of the mounting bracket last night and it still didn't sit over far enough. I need to weld some plate onto the end of these to give me the extra inch or so needed and I'll drill new mounting holes out of them. The 3rd mounting hole may prove to be a bit of a problem as it's way off the tunnel. It's almost over the seat rail so i'll need to weld on an extra bit of steel for it as well. I also wrapped the dash trim parts in brushed aluminium vinyl. They turned out pretty good. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bazmcc 0 Posted May 24, 2012 OK here's the solution for the gear shifter. Corrado bottom half of shaft MK4 bracket and return spring just because it's newer MK4 white plastic pivot/slider as it's shorter at the top MK4 spring and washers MK4 top of shaft so the MK4 gearknob fits into the key and flat side on it. Machining work New groove for spring C clip 17mm lower down the shaft from the original. Cut shaft 15mm above old groove Thread top 15mm of lower half of shaft. Make flat 25mm x 75mm x 3mm bar for the overall shaft offset Cut top off MK4 Shaft. Thread bottom of MK4 shaft cut-off. Couple of nuts and a couple of tack welds and we'll be sorted. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bazmcc 0 Posted May 28, 2012 I've decided that I need to come up with a solution for the broken clip at the bonnet release. Here's how the clip should look and how it does look below. Whilst I like the idea of the gruven one and it seems to do the job ok, it's a little clumsy and I think it could fit better so I'm going to have a look and see if I can come up with something more simple and better fitting. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Critical_Mass 10 Posted May 28, 2012 Coming along nicely mate :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bazmcc 0 Posted May 29, 2012 This wiring is going to be the end of me. No going back now. These are the mk4 switches and connectors and the parts of the corrado loom that go to the fuse box. I'll post up any lists of connections as soon as I work them out. Easier said than done of course so it might take me a little while to suss it out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
24V Renshaw 0 Posted May 30, 2012 OK here's the solution for the gear shifter. Corrado bottom half of shaft MK4 bracket and return spring just because it's newer MK4 white plastic pivot/slider as it's shorter at the top MK4 spring and washers MK4 top of shaft so the MK4 gearknob fits into the key and flat side on it. Machining work New groove for spring C clip 17mm lower down the shaft from the original. Cut shaft 15mm above old groove Thread top 15mm of lower half of shaft. Make flat 25mm x 75mm x 3mm bar for the overall shaft offset Cut top off MK4 Shaft. Thread bottom of MK4 shaft cut-off. Couple of nuts and a couple of tack welds and we'll be sorted. Sorry its taken me so long, but here is the image of a TT shifter, which shows the 1" offset. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bazmcc 0 Posted May 30, 2012 Nice one. Cheers. Looks very similar to what i'll end up with. But I don't think even a 1" offset would be enough clearance for me. The radio cage of the MK4 really sits out pretty far forward. The engineer is getting it sorted shortly for me along with the column extensions and stuff. I've given him a massive stack of work to do including loads of stuff for the engine bay. Hopefully it shouldn't take long although he's rebuilding his CNC mill at the minute. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
24V Renshaw 0 Posted May 31, 2012 There is a big earth to the steering column on the mk4 make sure that it connected properly. Jay Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bazmcc 0 Posted June 1, 2012 New clocks and the new crimpers arrived as well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bazmcc 0 Posted June 5, 2012 So this is what happens when you buy clocks cheap because they're untested. Either someone has tampered with it before (2 screws on the back were missing) or it's just busted and they've opened it to have a look. So as it stands at the minute I need a new LCD screen to leave it perfect but i'll get some time on another day to get a better look at it. I can still get the wiring sussed out and I still have a pretty rare FIS non-can set of clocks. I could open up a set of passat FIS clocks I have and take the LCD out but I'd rather just get a new screen if I can get one cheap enough. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bazmcc 0 Posted June 7, 2012 I got a little impatient and decided just to remove the old faulty lcd board. Just need to decide if I want to get someone else to solder up the new one or take it on myself. On another note about the wiring. I've decided to mount the MK4 fuse box and use it for a few things. The relay plate I'm undecided on yet as it would have to sit in front of the corrado fuse box. I may decide to make a new bracket for it and mount it close to the original place. Remember though that I also drilled out the bracket for the right hand side of it. The reason for doing this is to handle the way some of the mk4 switches get power and are fused. The mk4 fuse box and relay plate are seperate so are so much easier to modify compared with the CE2 box as the internal wiring is hardlined and cannot be changed. Ah well, i'll get the lighting loom sorted later and I need to make another list of stuff that needs doing as it's grown out of proportion a bit. Need to visit the engineer later too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
quicky1980 0 Posted June 7, 2012 god luck with the soldering, they look tiny! When ever I see "untested" I read that as "more than likely faulty" and stay away unless it's worth a punt. All the best with this project mate, looks tough. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bazmcc 0 Posted June 7, 2012 Yip, if I'm being totally honest that's pretty much the way I read it as well. But finding a full screen non-can set of clocks is pretty much impossible. It's the only set I've ever seen. I was confident that it could be fixed even if there was any issues. Lets hope that turns out to be the case. I'm hoping to be able to make some major progress over the next week with the wiring. The clocks are a secondary concern at the minute. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bazmcc 0 Posted June 10, 2012 I've been putting off the lighting loom repair, extention and braiding for a while as it's quite a large one with a few crossed over wires but I got stuck in yesterday and got it finished. It took me pretty much all day though (between watching football). Still haven't got round to the engine build but I'm continuing to work on the wiring. Here's the lighting loom. It needed a bit of a rebuild to repair a few wires and a fairly extensive reroute and entension to get it to fit down the wings. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites