Westginge 10 Posted May 28, 2012 Silly question i know - but i need some help here please. I did another Castle Combe session today in my VR6 (great weather, very sticky track, lots of fun and my corrado survived another track outing!) but i do have a suspension challenge. Inbetween outings i changed the shocks and springs all round for a lowered and uprated set ( not adjustable) and i thought i put it all back together correctly, but its not holding the corners as well as expected. When looking under the bonnet with the wheel turned, one top mount tilts back and the other forward ( vice versa when steering wheel put on lock the other way) but when straightened up they look levelish, even if they look quite high out of the top socket bit. The other guys at CC today reckon the top mounts shouldnt move like that? are they correct? Any thoughts / ideas please? Also - Predator pads - I changed discs and pads before today - all Black Diamond ( combi discs and predator pads) and the front pads have completely gone - metal to metal in one AM session, so any recommendations on racing pads? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OllieVR6 0 Posted May 28, 2012 The top mounts are supposed to move (don't worry I asked the same question after changing mine). As for pads I have no idea, sorry. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daleyboy 0 Posted May 28, 2012 I had the predator pads, even though they have lasted, they did crack up a bit, and on the edge i did lose small lumps. So i wouldn't be buying those again, looks like they cant handle the heat, and that was on standard VR brakes with the black diamond drilled and grooved disks. And the top mounts will move around when you turn the steering as the angle of the top mount follows the strut which changes angle as you turn, as long as the turning motion is smooth nothing to fret about. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Westginge 10 Posted May 29, 2012 Hi, thanks to both for replying, makes me feel much better ref the top mounts. Pads - im prob going to try the ferodo ds2500's for next months outing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DriverVR6 11 Posted May 29, 2012 Westginge, question for you...Did you swap the suspension over to the lowered version without setting up the tracking and cambers????? As for pads, Ferrodo and Mintex (racing spec) pads are both equally as good. Grooved discs will wear out the pads very quickly, that's why I stay well away from them for track use. Grooved discs do not help braking efficiency on the track. They are more for road use to deglaze the racing spec harder pads as they do not get used hard enough on the road. On a track this is not an issue... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Westginge 10 Posted May 29, 2012 Hey DriverVR6 - no i didnt set up the tracking and camber, just swapped the shocks and springs. are these DIY jobs? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DriverVR6 11 Posted May 29, 2012 Westginge, that'll be the reason it wouldn't corner properly. The camber will affect how well you corner as it affects the suspension geometry (ie how much of the tyre tread makes contact with the road). The camber being out by a couple of degrees makes a huge amount of difference to cornering performance, especially on a racing track. Your tracking would also have been incorrect if you put on lowered springs, so it would have been a double whammy Simple rule, if you change the ride height of the front suspension (up or down) or if you remove the strut/hub, then you need to get the camber (and tracking) checked/done. It is not a hard job to do, but you need to have the proper equipment. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
